When I push down on my rear grab bar on my sled that shock seems to go down rather easily and does not return all the way to the top. Any ideas? The sled is brand new. I was looking at the control arms on the rear shock and they are set on short. In this setting it should be easy then firm the more it moves, but I think it still should return to the top. Any and all idea will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

All the prox's do the same thing..... there is nothing wrong with it , I think its got something to do with the geometry on the rear arm .

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Mark is right...they all do it...Heres a link to the same question i asked last winter. kinda helps to explain it bit better for ya... :div20:

Thanks for the info, but it is stated in your previous post that they all do it except the '04 racer. Well that's is what I have and it does it. I won't worry about it then. Any suggestions for setup, I have heard that the suspension is very stiff. Thank again.

IF THE LIMITER STRAP IS PULLED UP SOME IT CAN PUT ALL THE PRESSURE ON THE REAR OF THE SKID. YOU CAN LOOSEN THE SKI SHOCK SPINGS TO LOWER THE FRONT END DOWN AND PUT EVEN PRESSURE ON THE ENTIRE REAR SUSPENSION.

Hey roadrashron. I have the '04 and it does the same thing. since we're on the topic of suspension i was wonderin' if there's anyone out there that has there's studded. apparently you have to remount the suspension lower and run the track singin' tight. I probably need the studs but not sure if the probs./ consequences are worth it. any other tidbits on the '04's would be way cool too.

I'm not studded. I did read on the polaris race site that you have to move the suspension and run it really tight like you said. I agree that any info on these machines will be really helpful. I will be switching to an edge tank shortly, I'll let everyone know how I made out.

Mine is studded with 96 stud boys down the center. Suspension is mounted on lower holes and track is really tight. When braking hard the track runs up over drivers and studs hit front exchanger. I've been searching all summer for the answer to this problem. Many have told me the lower holes are the problem cause it changes the geometry, so I am likely going to put back in upper holes. Some have said to run front exchanger guards, but I can't find any for the edge. Extroverts would work, but you have to move suspension back an 1 1/2" and trim rail caps. :banghead:

I just want to find a way to keep the ratcheting from happening so I can loosen the track.

I've also got a 11.8 gal edge tank for mine, but I haven't fitted it yet.

Ya, I never thought of gaurding the front exchanger,,,but,, you would think that if the studs are hitting the exchanger allready then they should really pound the gaurd (because it'll be even closer to the studs) which might damage the studs and maybe even the track???????? BTW how bad did ya damage the exchanger? If you do put the suspension back to orig. holes if you don't mind lettin us know how that works that'd be great thanks..

I just bought an 03 Pro X 700 with 500 miles and did the same thing your 440 is doing. I pulled out the rear skid, took it apart and greased all the parts. Funny how there are very few grease fittings and some have none. When I pulled it apart I noticed some had no grease at all. Take it apart and grease it. IT goes all the up now with no problems.

The only pivot points on the prox that don't have zirks are those with oilite bushings. Oilte bushings require no lubrication.

NHREV; when you moved the suspension did you move the front also or just the rear? On the polaris site it had a template that you had to make in order to move the front of the suspension down. Not sure if this helps or not but it would seem that it could bring the studs a little farther from the exchanger. Good luck, I'm not studding mine

unless you plan on racing it, you might want to think of swapping out the track for a 1.25 or 1.375...prolly be happier...If you get on anything hard w/little sno lube that 1 3/4" (i think isnt it?) lug is going to just eat away at your hyfax, and be pretty rough on the lugs...
the 03 came w/the 1 5/8 and ive had a couple minor cases of above problems...im able to run studs w/it no sweat, but i do watch it and keep pretty snug..

I am buying a 2004 pro x 440 race sled, brand new so it has no picks but I am going to put them in. any info on this problem would be great! I really dont want to run the track tight because it robs HP. Please help!

prox-600 did you move the suspension on the '03 or in stock holes? I'm racin this winter so i think without studs the only place it'll matter is in the corners where the snow get pushed out and it get's icy but that's all it takes sometimes, lose traction for a split second when the guy beside doesn't and he's not beside anymore. Changing tracks might work but $$$$$ ya know... really how much difference is 1/8 " gonna make.........i like that idea,anyone wanna trade tracks??? Bertram--when you get the sled lift up the snow flap and look how the lugs on the track actually wrap up the sides of the tunnel heat exchangers and that'll make you wonder how you'll keep the tunnel in 1 piece let alnoe the front exchanger. She's tight like a tiger!

whateverworks, the exchanger guards are only an inch or so wide, you place them on the face of the exchanger in line with the track windows. They are designed for the track to hit it thus not allowing the studs to make contact.

roadrashron, my sled was raced so the previous owner lowered the suspension. The front is lowered as well, so they must have used the template. I was told they lower it to get more lean in the corners so they can rail around the berms.

My sled has already been switched over to a 1.5" lug track, I can't imagine how bad the problem could be with another 1/4" of track. Really wish I could find a solution though, I love using studs so don't want to remove them, but I can't stand having to keep the track piano wire tight!!!! :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

Now after hearing all of this I am most deffinatly not studding this track, maybe a smaller lug track if I can get one. I set the track tension a little tighter than the specs for a normal pro x, seems to work good and it's loose enough that it won't eat power or hyfax.

Suspension lowered and 1.5" track??? if you're still havin those probs. then the 03's must scrub as well.... I wonder what the pro polaris sleds do??? they obviously have to run studs to be competitive and the skid frames/tunnels are likely the same as ours??? Then they go a put a 17/8" lug on the '05 how can you possibly pick that and not have probs. whatsupwiththat????

Lowering the suspension isn't moving it further from the front exchanger where the problem is, but many have told me it changes the geometry and that may be why I'm having problems. I talked to a few racers that encountered the same problem, and simply ran the track super tight. Many other racers didn't seem to have a problem, especially when they left suspension in upper holes.

Of course I personally have only riden my sled once last April right after I bought it, and only experienced the problem once in about 45 miles of riding when I slowed from top speed across Boundary pond in Pittsburg, NH. Who knows, maybe lowering it and replacing all the factory idler wheels (racer never put them on to save weight) will solve all problems. :banana:

I never touched the suspension...ive looked around for these "other mount holes" but ive never seen them...must be an 04 thing...like i said im running96 woodys 1630 megabites(at race spec if it makes a difference) down the center in my track and i never noticeda even a slight nick...im also paranoid and constantly checking it to make sure i got no problems...ive got my track hanging loose from storage, and marked it before i loosened it to make sure i got it back right...seems like i ran it 1" slack when wamred up 16" in front of the rear axle...

prox-600 The holes have to drilled out, ya can get a template from the polaris website. you're right though, by lowering it all that is accomplished is maybe protecting the tunnel a bit more. It doesn't matter where they put the suspension the track is gonna be the same distance from the front heat exchanger 'cause the drive shaft hasn't moved anywhere. oh well....WTF can ya do???? driver.

Back to the original question, if the front and rear of the suspension aren't working together, you'll get some torsional bind, lack of lubrication will cause "stiction"- no free movement. The suspsnsion design allows for a 5" set in on a Pro-X, and a 4" set in on an XC. As someone mentioned before, w/the sliderails setting flatter to the floor, the torsion springs will share some of the load w/the front coil spring. You should be able to lift up on the back of the sled, set it gently down, measure from a common point to the floor, plunk your butt down on the seat, get back off without otherwise touching sled and remeasure to that common point and it should return within 1" ( ideally ) to have the suspension working right. May have to work out the imperfections of mass production!

The five inches they give for a pro x, that's how far mine stays down. If I lift it up, then sit on it, it drops about five inches, when I get up I'm lucky if it comes back 1, but I'm pretty sure that the front is way tight, so I wil start there.

Your rear torsion springs might be sacced out, thought about replacing them? What kind of shape are your shocks in? Need a rebuild?

This sled is brand new and has been run in the grass twice for a total of 5 minutes, should I be going to the dealer about this?

Ron it's rich, that's the way the suspension is supposed to be. once you take it out riding you will feel a difference as the oil moves through the orfices or whatever. i dont think there is a problem but you may just want to revalve them now before they beat you to death on the stutter bumps.

Is it really that stiff?

get yourself a dirtbike and take the seat off while you ride, that way you can practice standing up 99% of the time. trust me your back will feel it.