So what's a good clutch set up for a 2004 700 Pro-X2? I ride more open/hard packed trails and lakes from time to time. I'm more interested in a good trail sled, but I don't want to sacrafice every once of top speed either. Is there a good combo. As of now I'm dead stock, except for studs. I don't really want to do any other mods. except for clutching and jetting, which I'll fool around with when I can ride. Does anyone know if the 2004 sleds came through with TEAM'S "new style" clutch on it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. :beerchug:

Come on guys, pockets/nickels. Someone must have some insite on what to do with this sled. BTW, I'm running a 1.25" track, studded.

I do have another question too. Its about starting the sled. After the sled is warm or fairly warm, where it should start without using the choke or anything else, it won't. You need to depress the throttle a little in order for it to start. Are my carbs not adjusted correctly? Is this common on other sleds out there?

First off no you don't have the new team clutch,and either do the 05's. You won't see them until next year on the sleds. A overall descent setup go with Almond/red (165/310) primary spring 64gm weights red/dk blue team spring. Or you could use a stiffer spring also for better back shifting. And I se team is saying to use 66/44/42-.46/.25/.25 part # 420719. Jet down to 420's on the mains. You might want to change your gearing to 24/42 or something close to that as well.

Thanks nickels. Sorry to sound stupid with this next question but what do all those numbers mean associated with the helix? Are the .46/.25/.25 how long the duration of the angle is? The stiffer spring in the secondary will increase the "snapiness" of the sled but take away from top end speed, correct? Do you happen to know what stock gearing is and if the 24/42 is a higher of lower ratio?

Thank you for the help and your time.

vettex1...The stiffer secondary spring may not neccessarily take away from the top speed, but it will slow down the shiftout on the upper end.
Stock gearing is 25/40. 24/42 is a lower ratio.

With a lighter spring you get faster upshift better for drag racing. With a stiffer spring you'll get better backshift. Better for trails on and off the throttle. So it's hard to have a good drag and trail setup at the same time. Stock gearing is 25/41 wich is a 1.64 ratio. 24/42 is a 1.75 ratio. or you could just drop the top tooth to a 24 and have 1.71 ratio. Both use the stock chain. I'm personally running 23/42 1.83 ratio.

Here's what I ran ................ Maroon w/70g Dalton's , Team red/blk w/70/44.46 and went to 24/41 , jetted to 410's and dropped the needle one clip. Ran like a freight train.

Jeff

Vette,

Be sure you get a set up from people with a 1.25 track only, because smaller (or larger) will make a big difference

Crazy ..... correct !!! Its like a taller gear !!

I was asked about my set-up from a guy who just baught an EPI kit for his ProX 7 ( 72g / Yellow , red/blk w/70/44.46 ) So I am not far off ............... worked great against those damm F7's .!!.

JW

That would be a Prox2 700. I'm not exactly sure what the difference in cdi boxes are between an 03 and an 04 but was told their were slight mapping changes. The kit came withan Orange secondary spring (140-240). I believe that is the same as a red/blk.

Thanks guys.

Liquidfast........what's the Maroon Spring rate at? That seems like a lot weight for a 700 to pull, also a big jump up from what Nickels in saying (64 grams). What track are you running?


Also what's the difference in the first # on the Helixes, 70 vs. 66. I like the sound of a tri-cut helix though. Also, does anyone know the rating on the two team springs, Red/dk Blue and Red/Black?

Nickels, what are you running? The set up that you already sent me? What are you getting for top speed.

I'm not interested in how fast I get to 100, I just want to get there, and a little over. Who am I kidding, I want to beat those damn F7's.

Weights are built differently. Some have heavy tips, some have heavy heels, some are heavy in the middle, some are a combo. Depending on what the weight is, the weight grams will vary. The same motor can pull various amounts of weight, depending on where the weight is on the arm.

The first number on the helix is the first angle. Say you have a 70/40.46. The helix is 70 degrees for .46 inches, then it goes to the 40 degree angle.

Rd/bl and Rd/Blk are both 140-200 rate, .218 wire dia, no difference.

So how do you know who's weight to buy and where you want the weight located on the arm? Trial and error? I've always heard good things about Dalton Weights, are they a good weight, or stick to a Polaris weight?

The spring rate on a Red/blue is 140-200 , red/black is 140-240.

The weights depend on who makes them. A polaris 66gm weight could be equivilant to someone else's 72gm weight. I think dalton's weights are the same as polaris so either of those would be good. With my gearing change and the 1.25 track I could get to 113 on the speedo. I said to use 64gm weights generally thats is a good starting point. But not every 700 is going to run the same. The most important thing to do is make sure your running the right rpm's. I ran 64gm last year this year I'm going to 66 to bring down my rpm's more on top end I was over reving. On the helix the 70 and 66 are starting points at where the helix starts from. You can't start with a real high angle or the sled won't pull it off the line. I had no problem with a 70-44 last year.

I would assume that the maroon spring Liquidfast is talking about is an Erlandson maroon. That spring is rated at 185/320. It says that it is for "race use only", but I have used it in trail form, and not had a problem. I do replace it at the beginning of each season to be safe. :div20:

Ya the EPI Maroon .....................

This is what the manual lists. Typing error???


7042137 RED/BLUE .218 4.767 140--200
7042164 RED/BLACK .218 4.767 140--200
7042165 RED/GREEN .218 4.767 120--220
7042166 RED/WHITE .218 4.950 100--200
7042167 RED/SILVER .207 4.950 125--175
7042168 RED/YELLOW .207 4.400 100--150
7042198 BLACK/RED .218 5.14 155--222

There's a typo in the manual. The red/blk is not the same as the red/blue. I believe if you go to the team site it also will tell you they are 2 different ratings. I don't mean to beat this to death. www.team-ind.com

Ya a typo .... my ProX manual says 7042164 rd/blk .218 4.70 140-240 . I also run one and can tell you that it is deffinetly 240 on the high side .

I'm pretty certain that the red/blue is 140/200.
It certainly acts softer than the stock re/black.

The maroon EPI is 185/320. It engages pretty hard @ around 5200 with 64-66 weights. It is very snappy in the midrange though and backshifts well.

That's the nature of Mikuni flatslides. I've always had to do the same thing with my 600s. One hand to blip the throttle and another to pull.

My old 6 never acted like that. I've seen other guys just pull theirs too. Plus cat uses the same carbs they start like a dream..........boy I hate to say that. Cats always seem to start well, compared to Polaris. I don't know, i would just like to fix it.