i am trying to reclutch my 700 switchback, it is still stock other than the 2 in track that was added when i purchaced the sled. I talked to the tec people at slp on clutch for it after i add a new head, and they said that it should not need any modifcation, just to monotor the revs.
The current set up is stock with this clutch set up, 10-58 weights with a blk/green spring on the drive and a blk/red spring on the driven, and 58/42-36 rev on the helix.

I think that the best set up for me would be somthing in the 6000-10000ft.
I would like it to take off hard (pull the skis up easily) and still have the top that it has know.
Does any one have any ideas on what would work good for me, with and with out the head?
Should i do the head first, or wait and get a single pipe first.

Could i acomplish the take of by changing the gears?

Sorry about all the questions, but im still not sure of how to get what im looking for and dont want to do it 2 or 3 times.

lower the gear ratio what gears are you runnung now???

wizard, you need to ask your self why buy a switchback and then turn it into a an rmk? now you need to get the specs from your dealer on the rmk 700 and install the new componants. if you change the heads and pipe, you will have to change things again. go to www.mark@legendperformance.com and get some very good advise from him. also ask him about his new 2stroke oil. :div20: GOOD LUCK

Iam sure that the cost to reclutch it will be a lot less than getting the better ryde fx shocks for the RMK. The track was just traded out in the deal at no cost to me.

Install the recommended ves springs for the altitude you are riding at, as used in the RMK, or 7041704-05 yellow ones, if you do not ride below 6000 ft. Run 10-60 weights, keep your stock helix, but get a new reverse wound black/red spring. Also go to a primary spring like an erlandson brown, or a slp black/yellow #40-67. You must also gear the sled much lower than the stock switchback gearing. Go to 19/39 from the 23/39 the switchback has stock. 19/39 you will need a 72p chain, or you could run 20/42 with the stock 74 chain. The single pipe from slp will gain several hp, and take off some weight. You can run leaner jetting than Polaris says, 1 or 2 sizes below what their chart says for the temp and altitude you are at. Always jet the mains for the coldest temp and lowest elevation you will ride at. By top speed, what is the fastest you see now?

i want to say that the fastest that i had i going is 75-85 mph, pined on a flat racing my buddy on his 2001 rmk 800.
i dont thing that i would be riding under 6000 ft, but if i was it wouldnt be by very much.
I was going to order the slp ves high altitude springs, but after checking prices i think that i will stick to the poo springs.
I have a set up chart from polaris that say the clutch that were set up with the 10-58 weight and smaller are geared at 19-39 72 pitch. I guess i will have to take a looksee. are they marked or do i have to count them
The reverse woud spring you are talking about the same one that i read about in an udate from team, on this forum?

thanks for the great info pockets

Your sled would not have came stock with the 19/39, the chart shows the recomended changes for higher altitude riding. That is unless the dealer did it for you when the track was swapped. The reverse wound spring is one and the same, and any spring from team is now supposed to be the updated ones. You may have to count the teeth, as the stamped ******s are had to read sometimes, and not all gears come stamped.

checked out the gearing today. 19-39 in there. I talked to tricity polaris today, they said that there is not enough gain without doing pipes at the same time to even mess with. this is starting to get me flusterated!! Some people tell me dont mess with it, others lighten up the weights, some say heaver weights. :banghead: