Does anybody know of a kit to convert the idler wheels to a larger size or can you buy some for a M-sled and just put them in?
The sled is a 2006 crossfire.

Just grab the part number off the web and bring it to your local dealer. Most have them in stock as they're a pretty common item. Or you can order them online from a variety of part suppliers. If you search this forum, you'll find the part number too.

Good luck getting the stockers off. Its a bitch. Cut mine off with a rotozip and then pulled the bearing off the spindle. Put a bit of grease on the spindle before installing the new wheels just in case you need to get them off again. I had to remove one a few weeks ago and I was dreading it. It tapped right off, but if I hadn't greased it, I would've had trouble.

Out with the old...



In with the new.

LOL, you don't need to cut the wheel off, just the bearing. A pair of snap ring pliars will allow you to remove the circlip and hit the wheel towards the inside of the suspension with a plastic hammer. Then use a die grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the bearing off.

Drink a beer after each wheel, you saved 15 bux a side by not wrecking the wheel.

Why the larger Idlers in that posistion ???/ Won't that move yur track closer to the tunnel when fully collabpsed?
What advantages?
Sorry just don't see the advantage

I should have been more specific

I was talking about the the rear idler wheels at the back of the track. Thanks

Try Mountain Machines Performance, they make a 8"Big wheel kit.You will have to use billet wheels or wait till summer when they may make more kits to use the regular cat rear idlers.
check out Arcticchat.com and go to the section crossfires 136-141 and look for 8"rear axel kit for Crossfires

it to stop the track from rubbing the TSL. (BTW - the TSL is that silver part that bolts up to the tunnel)

i used the avid 8 inch set up. make sure you order for the correct bearing size though.
you will have to machine out your rails like an 1/8th or 1/16th on the top and bottom of the slot , make sure you do both to keep center, otherwise the wheels will run to shallow or to deep. did a ton of work on my crossfire skid this year. lots of custom and off the shelf improvments. i still need to get it set up a little lighter though. wee stiff atm

oh i used the 8 inch wheel set off my M , changed those out to 9 inch with fastlane axels

Any pictures? Especially of the machined crossfire skid.

not much to see there, that back slot where your wheels go , just have to open them up top and bottom evenly. oh and then you have to grind the addapter down some to get more free play , it was a wreastling match
Click to view attachment

Doesn't the MMP offset axle run the 20mm bearing on the outside for using the M 8" wheels?

ya mmp makes a kit, i havnt seen it in person, but it doesnt use all 8 inch, only the outsides,
i went with avid becasue i already had the 8 inch oe wheels. im not sure i would go with mmp anyhow, there is also a kit on gripnrip that looks like it might be close to what i have, still might have to change the rail reciever slot , to make the wheels run even with the slides.

Thanks for all the info . Does anybody else have some pictures with 8" wheel kits

i think i might have a pic of the mmp 8 inch with fabcraft composite wheels at work il check monday. some guy put em on a crossfire

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

i have one more pic some where that the kit was made from a company that i think is belly up now

Your back shock resivoir is going to hit your track big time when the sled bottoms. Defenatly cant mount it there. Even your front resi may rub, hard to tell from the pic for sure. Good luck with it.

think so? il take a closer look at it. not alot of places to mount em. as far as bottoming, its so stiff now man, im trying to get it softer.
i think when i put that together i didnt have the springs in it so it looked ok then. isnt that how they are mounted on the snopro 600 ?

what i was going to do is just ride it this year, then have them rebuilt and revalved next year.
now i jump on the running boards and i can barly get it to crouch a couple few inches


Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I was replacing the wheels with bigger ones so the track would not drag on the TPS so no need to save them. I got the bearing off with a 6" gear puller I purchased to try and pull the wheels off. However, the wheels just bent with the gear puller. UUGH! Anyway, it was quite hilarious beating on a new sled and cutting things off before it ever saw an inch of snow. We had a good laugh while doing it and quite a few beers. All went well and the sled ran without an issue last season. No track rub.

Sorry about jumping the gun, tho. I just assumed this post was about the bigger upper idlers due to the track rub issue.

Yeah the back one is going to be a major problem. The piggyback shocks that came on the older SP models all have the resivoir facing down. And i've seen a couple cases where shocks were re-installed upside down (similer to yours) and the resivoir ended up getting ripped off by the track.

Looks like your front one may rub a little too in those pics. Those 1/4" diameter steel loop things are there for the track to bounce off of when fully collapsed, so you want to stay well below those. Try mounting the front shock ressi to the rail maybe.

with the help of three 79 lb bags of mortar + my wieght and me pulling down i was able to get the skid fully compressed. seems to be enough room there now more room on the front than back, but il look at what you mentioned, do you have any pics of installs?

A resivoir shock like this would be ideal for you: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARCTIC-CAT-...emZ370085872124

And just mount it with the resi down. You could probably set yours up this way by rotating your fitting 180 degrees and going with a hose about 5-6" long or so. No hose in your way then.

If it looks like you have enough room with the sled stopped that doesnt necassarily mean your ok. The track bounces up and down alot, and basicaly occasionaly hits of the highest part of the suspension. Thats why those guards are there on the front arm.

I also attached a pic of an 03 Firecat SP skid, kinda crappy pic but you should be able to see it.

You may think you have enough clearance but when your track is flopping up and down while in motion it will rip that reservoir off like nothing. We ain't rookies at this stuff. Look at the 07 08 factory sno pros, the rear shock reservoir is mounted on the rails with clamps. You will have serious problems.

yah im gonna look at it this weekend, probably just flip it under like mentioned

minet, the photo you posted with the 8"big wheel kit with the 6 3/8" centers looks like Mountain Machine Performance kit.
on your 4 wheel 8" green big wheel kit, won't the 2 inside wheels hit your torque link ?? or are your blocks far enough forward to keep them form hitting.
The smaller center idlers were used because they allow your suspension to work without hitting anything with the 8" center wheels.
If yours dont make contact, the good for you.
my 2 cents

good eye,
yes its close but the coupler blocks are farther out than the wheels.
also its a new track and will loosen up some after i get a few miles on it so , wil be able to move those wheels back another little bit then.

ok there is a couple other things i did with the skid ,, the pics dont show it well but its not stock, can anyone figure out what that is ? lol

alright ,, no ones gonna guess it anyhow ..

bdx front axle boggie kit + one extra set of EO boggies on the inside infront of the front bottom shock mount ( ran this last year on my 144 ) .. no more hitting that cross axle or vibrations~