I am looking to replace my m10 in my 02 xc8, the used parts dealer here has a 136 edge out of an 01 or 02 touring in mint cond. My question is this, first was this an edge skid in those years? is there a difference between XC and Touring skid? And it only has non rebuildable shocks, he wants 325 for it do you think its worth it with those shocks?

Thanks

if its a 01 or 02, most likely a Xtra-12 touring skid - not an edge skid.

If you're looking to change from a M-10, I wouldn't think that the above skid will be what you're looking for. Check out the swap meet here and also www.tracksusa.com ,bruce usually has some skids for sale.

Correct, no Edge touring in '01 or '02. Either a Xtra-10- 136" or a Xtra-12-133.5".

I looked at tracks usa I haven't called yet but I think shipping will be high to Canada!!!

I would keep the m10 over the x10 or x12 long track versions. What are you looking to accomplish with the swap? What don't you like about the m-10. Short of the crappy hole shot the poo version of m-10 can be greatly improved.

I agree with JB. I would not spend anything on one of the older style suspensions. Take the money you were thinking of spending on the conversion, and spend it on the M-10 to repair it/make it over the way you want it. Work with people that know that suspension - not just anybody, and you'll be surprised at how well that suspension can work.

If you're thinking about going long track, a 136" M-10 might get a pretty good holeshot - especially with a 136" Cobra track installed. Maybe still not a drag racer, but should still turn in some decent performance. FWIW, that's how I'd do it. -Al

I only trail ride to get to the pits that I play in and ever then they are only about 3 km from the house. That being said I find the M10 to trench alot, doesnt provide very good floatation in deep snow and I know its stupid but I wont lift the skis.

You can improve the transfer some by shaving the coupling blocks. Plus the 136 kit on the m-10 will help the floatation

I live in a smaller town in northern ontario and its hard to find anyone that knows anything specific. also Im not looking for holeshot Im looking for a better jump and deep snow performance. I dont live in the mountains but we do get a fair amount of snow and nobody rides the same pits as me either so that makes the conditions even better. Thanks for the advice.

As soon as you said jump there is not much hope for making the m-10 do what you want. I don't care what you do to it, its a falling rate suspension.

Best thing you can do is find a 121 edge, put tracks usa extensions on it. The pps shock is a crusing shock, get a Fox clicker - non PPS. Ryde or fox on the front rail is fine.

The Braaaap team used to have a blade that they did huge air with. It sure jumped.

In a perfect world, on an unlimited budget, the Edge would likely be the better suspension. God knows, I sure like it. In the real world, thinking the M-10 can be made to do a nice job. Not caring much for the idea of converting that chassis to Edge. Doesn't that chassis use the M-10 specific fishbone reinforcment? As far as dealing with the falling rate in a jumping scenario, stiff valving should help turn in some acceptable performance? Have also heard of guys moving the rear arm mount back (forcing full time coupling) to stiffen things up. Though I think that may be a bit extreme for most.

Living in a small town with no help available just means you are going to have to figure out how to do it yourself - be curious enough to ask LOTS of questions. A good example is the original one you asked regarding the suspension that guy was trying to off on you. If that's something you think is beyond you, you might consider making sure what you have is maintained properly, and dealing with it until you can update to a sled that might better suit your needs.

Sure I can make a m-10 take a big jump also. Problem is it will ride like a rock. Probably not transfer well either.

I went to a boiler steam valve shop and found a 1500 psi per inch spring. I used this as the bottom out spring to help the inherent problem of a falling rate suspension.

Now m-10 having a bottom out spring is a sign of a problem.

The m-10 serves its purpose well. There is no better cruising, sight seeing skid out there.

As far as brapppppppp doing big air, did they land in 5 feet of soft snow? or on hard packed snow?

Haven't seen many a m-10 in snow cross racing.

As far as stiff valving making the m-10 not bottom, yes it will help. But don't forget it will stiffen up the whole ride.

Another problem with a falling rate skid is it increase's speed on the rebound. Thats why a m-10 will kick when hard on the brake, moving wieght forward. Doing this on a downhill is even worse.

Probably why the m-10 has a stiff enough rebound stack to be put in a monster truck. What is it like 6-8 1.250 shims in the first positions of the rebound stack?

Just my findings.

Braaaap was in an indoor arena when I saw them. Landing I believe on a wooden ramp or hard pack hill. I use the Jack in my m-10 so that I can adjust it for what I want quickly.

Actually, the M-10 was used in sno-x racing around 94-95, one of the "Flying Finns" , Tony Ahmasalo or something. From What I remember, it took the big bumps well but had other problems. Like traction out of the turns.


From my very limited experience with the M-10, it can make 9 out of 10 bumps simply disappear - then #10 comes and try to catapult you over the handlebars with a fierce rebound kick. (Note: this was a 04 Polaris M10, not properly setup for my weight)

Here is an M-10 jumping

The shock rebuilder I was refered to convinced me to keep the M10. I'il try a shock rebuild and go to the heavy springs. I thought I saw shorter coupler blocks on the fast web site last year but I cant find them now has anybody seen them or is my mind just playig tricks on me?

Don't expect magic from a shock rebuild on the M-10. The magic is in the 100/300 spring front srping and getting the cross over tube, pre load and FRA right.

Where would I get a 100-300 front track spring? All the spring listed in the M10 manual are single rate, STD 160, soft 140, firm 180. Rears are dual rate STD 210/278, soft 135/240, firm 235/415. All of which I cant find on the polarid web site. I am about 260 with gear and I dont know if I should just replace the springs with standard weight and crank the FRA up or go with the heavy ones and turn the FRA down. I have to replace the front one anyway because its broken, the stupid thing is the front one is single rate and its $49 cad and the rear one is dual rate and its $19 cad.

the 100/300 spring is a team fast part and it will be cheaper than the polaris part. do you have the goofy 3 spring rear set up or the one like fast uses with 1 little spring inside 1 big spring? The 2 spring set up is better. You could also convert to air ride. That is supposed to work really nice though I have no first had seat time.

Its got the little inside. If I went with the 100/300 spring what would you recomend for the rear spring? Would you recomend revalving the shocks to be a bit stiffer or maybe adding a clicker. Can a clicker be added to those shocks? Thanks for you're input.

TTT

a clicker can be added to M-10 which I did with my M-10 before I used the Jack. I did like having that.

Whats the jack?

http://www.teamfast.com/index.php?main_pag...62a6fa58a865200

500$ damn that haha

Best $500 you can spend on a sled

Or put a edge in it with a fox clicker for the same price or less and beat up on the m-10 in the jumps.

Plus the jack will still break your back when you hit a big dip at hig speeds, moderate also.

Sorry, the m-10 is still a falling rate skid. All the bandaids in the world will not make it a snowcross, agressive trail skid.

Then the best, a 136 edge.

The fast web site doesnt tell you what the jack does or wher it goes. so what does it do?

It goes under the rear shock. Its just a easy way to adjust the rear shock ( fra). Instead of turning the bolts to move the shock you screw the jack and it moves it.

$500 to save ten minutes of work. Its nice, just doesn't make the skid work any better.

sounds like a convenient luxury.

If you have it you adjust FRA all the time. If you don't usually you don't ever touch FRA which means that the sled is rarely optimum for trail conditions or weight. I can tell on the M-10 when I have used a good portion of fuel and will often adjust the ride based on fuel load. Sure it is expensive but it works. though I have no seat time on it the air ride for M-10 should be really cool .

Actually, I think someone by the name of Gerard "The King" Karpic used one around '91-92 on a 9700 Blizzard, where he actually developed this unit on the earlier snowcross tracks.

Makes sense I set the FRA to my weight acording to fast spec and never changed it last year.

you should at least play around with the FRA adjustment

Wow, I agree. You are/were thinking about going to a more capable suspension, without knowing what the one you have now is capable of if you haven't. Make a couple of BIG changes in it, one way each way from where you are at so you can easily see what your change has done to the ride/bump capability. Then jack up your spring preload and repeat the exercise......

Thanks for your input guys. Now I just have to wait four more months to try tuning it!!!!