Is there a way to take the sag out of the tunnel/suspension. I have at least 6-8in of play I read the manual and it said like 3-4in. Someone told me that is normal to have more then 3-4in.?

How much do you weight? Have you changed the suspension setup at all or is it setup the same as when brand new? I have no personal experience with the suspension on that sled but I can't see 6-8" of sag being normal.

I have had 2 switchbacks with the same condition. I had to put the H.D. torsion springs in on both sleds to get the sag within spec.
I go almost 300 lbs. with all my gear on and a tunnel bag. Works great with the new springs.

I weight 185-190lbs dry. THe only adjustment I have made is the 3 setting block and I keep it in the middle. THat just change the spring stiffness. If i put he HD torsion spring on at weighing 185 that would be a rough ride?? WHat is involved installing this and what do they run for pricing

I think it was 150 $ for the pair 2 seasons ago. You can do it yourself. Tip the sled on its side and do one at a time if you don't have a lift. One man job, you don't need help to do. 10 min. a side should do it. If in a hot garage, maybe a six pack would help.

I had the same sag issue and installed one of the heavy duty torsion springs and left the stock one on the other side. This solved the problem and it sits much higher. I was hoping that it would improve the trail riding but it had minimal affect. There are a several different diameter springs that you can purchase. I installed the largest size, 0.405” if I recall correctly.

This post may cause some discussion that the two torsion springs should be the same but it works for me and I only had to purchase one spring. I also spoke to a suspensions specialist beforehand and they said the springs don’t need to be the same and the tensioning blocks do not have to be on the same setting.

Install the .405's, suspension works fully and you don't have the jarring kickback like how the stockers do.

rupert, install the same springs, having them different tension will put more stress on one side than the other. May not sound like it does just because you talked to an "expert" but it is logical, but it is your money and your sled. If I were buying used and came across your's I would walk away after seeing the different springs in there.

I would have to agree with marv on this one, technically if you think about it the lighter spring will compress first thus throwing a bind in the tunnel and suspension, from where I am from binding is not a good thing esp with shocks. Do both of them. First put the block setting on the highest setting, if that solves all your problems you saved yourself $150 and if you need more then go to the big springs.

I'm with rupert. I've always run stock springs, but have at times run different settings on opposite coupler blocks...which is the same idea. Thinking thru the "logic", there is absolutely no problem with different rate springs or settings on each side. The springs press on a solid rotating shaft that's inside a full length sleeve, so an imbalance simply CAN'T put anything in a bind. This is actually a fairly popular fine-tuning method for rear suspension setup when you start talking to the pros (by pros I mean shock rebuilders and aftermarket suspension setup companiess.) I know for a fact that Fett Brothers agrees and frequently suggests such setups for their customers (I have no documentation, but feel free to call them if you like). Snowtech magazine also agrees it's fine. I found a quote from the following article, with their reasoning as to why it's OK:

http://www.snowtechmagazine.com/?cat=8 (scroll down to "rear suspension preload adjustment" section)

"And despite popular belief to the contrary, you do not have to have both sides set the same. The cams both apply their pressure to the same shaft, so you can set each cam individually to provide you with more possible settings. Instead of just low-low, medium-medium-medium and high-high, you can also set the blocks to low-medium and medium-high for five different settings instead of just three!"

So if someone is too light for a pair of stock springs, and too heavy for a pair of heavy-duty springs, then one of each is definitely a good way to get the sag and spring tension you need. It's also is cheaper by exactly the cost of one spring.

I stand corrected, I was told differently when I did mine.

It’s nice to see that I have some support. I’m not sure if one way is right or wrong but I have been using two different springs for the last 1,500 miles and haven’t had any problems. I set the lighter torsion spring on the stiffest setting and adjust the heavier spring wherever need. I think the heavier spring is set in the middle setting right now. It eliminated the slop issue for certain. I didn’t succeed in giving it a better ride.

The reason why I only installed one heavier spring was not to save $75 but felt that two 405 springs would be too much spring for my 225 pounds of body mass. I still think two 405 spring would be too much because the rear sag is currently less than what Polaris recommends. I think it gets closer to the recommendation wearing riding gear, tunnel bag loaded and massive tunnel ice chuck installed. Maybe I’ll try a second 405 and see if it helps the ride.

Good thing I’m not trying to sell, everyone would be walking away. I bet 99% of the people wouldn’t even notice. Besides, most people are more concerned about the cracked hood, broken plastic and bent tunnel when they are buying my sled after I’m done with it. Maybe this is a slight exaggeration but it does get used properly.