What have you fellers done to your diamond drive to make some more backshift without sacrificing the top end?

Stiffer Secondary spring with shift assist!

I will be installing a Torsional Conversion kit/spring with stock helix, set of Rock Rollers, Cutler adjustable primary weights, AC orange/white spring, and Glide washers in my 06XFR7SP. I ran the shift assist and spring combo in my F7 and did find improved backshift but not much top end gain in comparision to what i've seen the torsional conversion can do for a DD sled. The shift assist did relieve me of continually checking/re-tightening my secondary spring preload.

Yep stiff secondary spring, D&D's have worked very well for me and a different helix will make all the difference in the world.

RTK clutch kit is the ticket.

You guys and your band aid torsional kit fixes........

You can make the DD work well with the proper spring and helix. Problem has been lack of info and too few parts to test. Try a helix with a 36 degree finish. It's going to take some testing and tuning to see what start works best for you. I find the DD's very sensitive to changes in conditions, which can be a good thing, it's just a matter of figuring out the sweet spot. 36 degree finishes seem to be a good part of the equation.

Flame away......................

There are multiple springs to throw at it that are all better than the cat stocker
a cat orange and shift assist will wake the sled right up and give you the same top end
that you currently have, BUT the sled will go much faster with the Goodwin or it hurts
to say it a Ski Doo RER spring with the tits nock off. There are many other Set Up issues
that need to be handled first as I have stated in all the questions people have.
Go through the older posts theres a good one that speaks of the Cat orange specifly with
the shift assist. It goes through a ton of trial and error read the post and make up your own
mind. Pay special attention if you are running studs or not, the clutching that I talk about is
with a 170 studs or so.

Soulemann

I wouldn't disagree with this but I would suggest at least a multi angle or progressive cut with a 36 finish. I tried a straight 36 and lost some down low. I am going to try more setups with shallow angles as I also think this is a good way to maximize clutch efficiency with the DD setup. IMO, throwing big springs at the back clutch to gain backshift works but it will cost you up top, especially in high load situations.....use the helix to hold the belt and just enough spring to keep it all together, at least that will be the way I start this season.

That's why I mentioned that testing for the proper start angle will be required. I always use mulitiangle progressives. Have tried many and settled on two that work for my applications. What I did find consistantly and has been backed by local speed shops, is the 36 finish. Once you decide on the start angle you want, use the springs to fine tune.

find the donnoB thread

Somewhat dated info.....and why/where did he disappear...........Good starting point though.

Dono is gono and has been for some time. He disappeared from Arctic Chat after someone did or said something to offend him.....maybe the same happened here as well. Hopefully nothing happened to him. Dono does seem to subscribe to the big spring/steeper angle approach and has had some success, at least according to his own reports. I think the biggest issue is finding a setup that works well/consistently in ALL conditions. Compromise seems to be the problem with clutching the DD.

My set up works fine and it cost me a whole $40! Spring & helix. If you can't spend that kind of $ why do you even own a sled?

PS: Dono's stuff may work great for hard pack but not so good in fresh.