Things to do:
-Order motor plate from Brad (Power Addiction Motorsports,Inc) 1-435-881-6665.
-Remove right rear engine mount.There will be two mounting holes under the mount. Move it to the outside hole closest to the chaincase.Brad plate is set up for that location. You will need 4 spacers for under the motor mount plate 5/16 thick made out of alum or nylon this helps get your C+C 10 5/8".
-Cut lower alum brace between shock towers. I left 1" on either side sticking out. I cut 13 1/2 " out of brace in order to clear water pump housing.
-Next i cut the steering support post on the pto side.I found that i could not get spark plug cap on it was to tight. The total lenght i cut out 12 3/4 ". I also notched out the steel support bar on top in order to service the power valves. What i used for my new steering support bar was a steering post from a Ski-doo Blizzard 5500,7500,9500 from 79 to 81 model year. It was 1" O.D same as the orignal it had a perfect bend. There is more than enough clearance but also it will be easier to drop in the motor. Before you weld it into place make sure to check fitment with cab on.
-Mount motor to Brads motor plate,dont forget to place 4 spacers on the motor mounts first in the chassis. When i mounted the motor to the plate it had no crank or pistons. It a lot easier lifting in and out of chassis. But im sure it can be done with a complete motor. Make sure to have the torque arm bracket mounted on the motor. I used the 440 bracket but it must be turned around the bolt holes must be on the inside of the frame where the torque arm bolts.
-Now its time to pre fit the motor and plate. Place in position and notice where the bottom of the case ans torque arm bracket hit the side of the bulk head. Mark guide line where it is hitting and cut bulk head. Re fit motor and check if you have enough clearance. If you are doing oil injection do the same to the other side to clear oil pump. I went with premix so i did not have to worry about it. Once your happy with the results of the motor sitting in the proper position and have proper clearance.
-Next is the placement of the support bar below the water pump housing. I used 3/4 x3/4 square tube be sure to remove tie rod end rubber boots or they will melt when the bar is being welded. weld everthing up. hope this helps Bruce

Under post # 1 please post these pictures

you will also need POD airfilters with a big block, i have kickass filters and they just barely clear the jackshaft. bruce is running a tipped up K&N filter, both should work. also get some snoprefilters.
and the pipe of your choice will either need to be custom cut and fit to the chassis unless you find some race twins from the 05 800 racers.

All the work looks nice.

I did not have to cut anything for clearance on my 06 IQ. I just ordered the steering post, engine straps and upper support cage for the factory mod from Polaris and then I made 1.5' spacers to go under the block. The engine slides in and can be worked on without issue.

I am thinking of notching and welding the bulkhead to accomidate a oil pump though.

There you go guys. Thanks for stepping up and making this a thread with pics. I just havent had time, i only step in and check it for a few minutes each day. Do you have your engine in and set ready for a pipe? Where are you at as far as eta or build time into it?

99 xc 600 is a big block too right?

Just thinking out loud here, but if you use 5/16" spacers on all four motor mounts, how does that change the center to center of the clutches? Does it bring the primary closer to the secondary? By how much? Again, not saying it's wrong, if it works for you it works.....just having a hard time seeing how. That and Brad has never mentioned that anyone would have to add spacers when using his motor plate. I haven't asked him specifically, but this is the first time I've heard of the need for spacers with his plate.

I had to place 3 spacers under the front mount with brads plate also. He recommends that you put the spacers in the rear mounts but it pushes the c-c off about 1/2". I took them out and placed them in the front and bam perfect. I called him about it and he didn't know but he was happy it is right now.

The reason for the 4 5/16 shims under the motor plate is to raise the motor in the chassis. In order for the air filters to clear jackshaft. i used K&N 20 degree angle filters. Without the spacers under the motor plate there is no enough clearance to put any type of filter on carbs. THANKS PETEREPEATER for pointing out the mistake. i tried to edit the post but i have no edit button. Thanks Bruce

what are you using for carb boots?

pro x short carb boots

1160 cat big bore billit twin, fits no problem, custom airbox, twin d pipes, all custom fit by Terra Alps Racing inc.
with no spacers.

Thats a sweet looking airbox. do you have any close up pics?
I need to make one of those for my 990 twin.

IQ 440/800 PROJECT ALMOST DONE. I FIND THE K&N AIR FILTERS WITH THE 20 DEGREE ANGLE IS VERY CLOSE TO THE JACKSHAFT. WHICH IS WELL KNOWN FOR GUYS THAT HAVE DONE THIS SWAP. MOTOR DROPPED IN WITH EASE. THE ONLY OTHER ISSUE IS THE HOSE THAT GOES FROM THE COOLANT BOTTLE TO THE WATER PUMP MUST BE SPLICED AND ADD 3" IT INTERFERES WITH THE STEERING POST. OTHER THAN THAT YOUR GOOD TO GO. HERE ARE A FEW PICS. ALSO STILL WAITING ON MY PIPE FROM NEILS POWER PIPES.

Under post #13 please post this picture.

Very nice istall, looks clean. Your going to love it man! Put some pics up when you get the pipe and everything in there and buttoned up.

Curious about the primer into the aluminum can?

Good eye Pro-ex.

Very nice work Bruce, you are building an awesome sled. You should be all ready by the time the snow flys.

I am also curious about a few things.

The two blue hoses going to the center of the Air Filters...what are they for??

Looks like the Jack Shaft bearing is on backwards??? Do you need it this way for the offset of the Motor???

Keep up the good work Bruce, you will insprire a few here who want to do the same thing.

The lines comming from the carbs were attached to the air box for float bowl pressure? So i did the same for the K&N filters. Yes the jackshaft bearing is turned 180 degrees saves using lots of spacers, because Brad motor plate moves the motor over to the left quite a bit. Thanks Tom

....and the primer into the aluminum bottle??

The primer setup is used to "manually" lube the crank bearings in lieu of oil injection. Just a little added insurance.

thats where his NO2 nozzles need to go. im will be there some day.

Thats what I figured, good idea! I saw a greenish tube at the bottle then at the bearings. Couldn't see if it traced all the way back though.

this thread should be pinned!!

HOW DO YOU PIN IT ? (PINNED) I dont write as well as Tom maybe he can help PIN it ?

pm a mod and they will pin it.

hello folk`s im new here and i am from sweden.. i think that the primer pump and the alu can is for lubing the jackshaft with 2-stroke oil when you drive premixed feul.. correct me if i`m wrong... i have done that also and it work`s great..

ok sorry I didn`t read the whole tread!!!!

Went for my first blast on the 800 IQ. It's nuts pull real strong clutched perfect thanks to POCKETS. Just have to be careful man it likes to lift the skis. I have a few more things to do 2" lower spindals from Brad then i will clean it up and take some pictures neil at(NEILS POWER PIPES) wants some pics for his web site for the 800 in a IQ 440 chassis. Thanks to everyone who help me out. Thanks Bruce Walker

what are you running for clutching
thanx

clutching 68 gram Daltons almond/blue primary 150/310 stock 440 helix right now 70-44.046 red/black sec . Bruce

Here a few more pic's with pipe installed.

under post #30 please post these pictures

that silencer looks crazy loud bruce. glad shes running good for ya. we are getting snow right now and my CDI box wont be back until monday. sent it out for some timing upgrades and wanted to get perc added but i couldnt cuz its the 440 box. so now i need a percable CDI and the intermedate wiring harness so i can perc my sled, but not in a super big hurry on that. ill ride it the way she is as soon as i get my box back.

sled looks nice bruce.

laters
jason

WOW brad's motor plate really does move that over a long way. Thats a nice pipe too...great job!

Thanks boy's for all your help. Bruce And Jason its not real loud untill you come on to it.

Looks Great Bruce.

I still like the look of the '06 and your touches with the hood screens, windshield and such just top it off.

I hear it's snowing all across the upper US. Thats awesome, have fun on your toys guys.

Hi, I am finishing up an 800 in a '06 IQ conversion and am finding that the primary clutch is not aligned to the secondary. The C-C is correct but the PTO side of the engine is forward a little which throws off the clutch alignment. I have Brad's plate which should take care of it. Any ideas?

Everything else has gone good. Modified a SLP pipe from an xc800 and added oil injection.

Thanks

Sent pm Bruce

Just installed BRADS POWER ADDICTIONS 2" lower spindals they are a piece of work nice fit and finish. Will try this weekend and see how the sled handles. He still has a few sets for sale. Will post some pic's after the weekend tour. Bruce

Went for a blast today with Brads 2" lower spindals. Sled handles much better on tight corners does not hight side as much. Also great weight transfer hooks up much a must have for trail riding here are a few pics.

looks good!!

every time i see your pipe i get wood.

That didnt sound as gay in my head! LOL

would a 05 rmk 900 be the same as the 800 ves for installation into a iq or is it totally diffirent anyone know

The RMK 900 would be impossible because of it's mount style (they bolt in from the sides). The pipes and Throttle bodies are on the front of the motor and it lays down and back in the chassis. on top of that, the EFI would be a wiring nightmare and the reliability of the cranks are questionable (I have one tore apart in my shop right now.) The only chassis that the 900 fits is the 900 chassis. I found that even trying to put a carbed 600 into a 900 chassis is just about impossible due to EVERYTHING being different. Hope this helps, Craig

Kinda not true...... I know a guy with a 900 cfi in a IQR. I don't recommend the install though.

ok, now tell us how much time and money he has into it to get it to work and fit.

heres a pic of one

Did I say Impossible, I meant Almost impossible LOL. I just pulled the motor on an 05 RMK900 as it was sitting next to my IQ prodject. Dimensionaly it is possible, but so is masturbating with sand paper, it doesn't sound like fun. You would have to be one hell of a fabricator and have both the IQ and the 900 Fusion sleds complete in order to rob parts. If you are going to go through the hastle of this swap, put a 33mm billet PTO end on the crank and have the case cut for the clipped bearing to be on the PTO side of the crank. No use going through all the work to have your crank fail the first time you pound it. I still say for the money, time and effort, sell the 900 and buy an 800VES or 660HO, you will thank yourself later. Craig

PS whoever did that swap in the pic is f'in impressive, the definately have bigger balls than me. Don't think i'm belittleing you, I'm just saying it looks harder than what i want to do! Damn impressive.

very impressive, however not practical. for that much money you could do far better and far more ponies.

besides that it looks like a can of worms waiting to explode lol. wonder how good it goes though?

im looking at doing a 700 BB. this would be the same procedure as the BB 800 i would asume?


only a 02 700 ive heard they made 130 Hp?