Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: recoil rope broke pro-xr c/w 700 engine
HCS Snowmobile Forums > Snowmobile Forums > Polaris General Discussion > Pro-X
kneedeep
there is almost no room to get at the recoil. Do I have to remove the whole frickin engine to replace the recoil rope?


2004 pro-xr c/w 700 ves engine
02pro-x440
that would be the easiest.
kneedeep
pull the exhaust, carbs, and belt. Undo the 4 engine mounting bolts and lift a few inches up to access recoil?

Sound about what I have to do.
xc-mark
QUOTE(kneedeep @ May 25 2008, 10:44 PM) *
pull the exhaust, carbs, and belt. Undo the 4 engine mounting bolts and lift a few inches up to access recoil?

Sound about what I have to do.



you will also have to remove the mounting screws for the oil pump , the good news is its only about a hour and half job. Dont disconnect any or the cooling system or the oil pump hose. To get to the rear motor mount remove the air box and loosen the carb rack and lift carbs out of the way (leave the cables in them but disconnect the fuel line). This will give you enough room for the rear mounts.
kneedeep
QUOTE(xc-mark @ May 26 2008, 09:22 AM) *
you will also have to remove the mounting screws for the oil pump , the good news is its only about a hour and half job. Dont disconnect any or the cooling system or the oil pump hose. To get to the rear motor mount remove the air box and loosen the carb rack and lift carbs out of the way (leave the cables in them but disconnect the fuel line). This will give you enough room for the rear mounts.


i have pod filters so removing the carbs and zip tieing them out of the way is pretty straight forward.

Thanks for the help.
jbshocks
QUOTE(kneedeep @ May 26 2008, 12:03 PM) *
i have pod filters so removing the carbs and zip tieing them out of the way is pretty straight forward.

Thanks for the help.



I only loosened the right 2 mounts but mine is a 600 so your mileage may differ. On a 700 change out the water pump belt while you are in there.
tage81
get a recoil rope from 4Z at snowest, he has some tough ropes, wery impressive
shortstop20
As mentioned, if the motor has more than 2000 miles on it replace the waterpump belt. Replace the recoil rope with a 4Z rope regardless. The stock rope will most likely break sooner or later, unless you never let your sled sit outside a whole night at below zero.
XCR1250
QUOTE(tage81 @ May 30 2008, 04:05 PM) *
get a recoil rope from 4Z at snowest, he has some tough ropes, wery impressive


As does SLP, 5000 PSI rope, unbreakable.


Don
tage81
QUOTE(XCR1250 @ May 31 2008, 12:25 AM) *
As does SLP, 5000 PSI rope, unbreakable.
Don


they are probably the same make of rope..
shortstop20
They are different I'm pretty sure. I've got the SLP rope on my Pro-X. I think the 4Z rope is cheaper though and plenty strong enough.
kneedeep
QUOTE(shortstop20 @ May 31 2008, 01:31 PM) *
They are different I'm pretty sure. I've got the SLP rope on my Pro-X. I think the 4Z rope is cheaper though and plenty strong enough.


got some good quality slp rope. The engine only has a few hundred km since its last rebuild so the belt should be good.
tage81
QUOTE(shortstop20 @ May 31 2008, 09:31 PM) *
They are different I'm pretty sure. I've got the SLP rope on my Pro-X. I think the 4Z rope is cheaper though and plenty strong enough.



when i did my install of the 4z rope i had to use a saw to cut it, no pliers where able to tear it..

http://www.pixbox.se/pic_show_id20888966.html
XCR1250
QUOTE(tage81 @ Jun 1 2008, 07:43 AM) *
when i did my install of the 4z rope i had to use a saw to cut it, no pliers where able to tear it..

http://www.pixbox.se/pic_show_id20888966.html


That's how the SLP rope is, hard to cut with a knife or razor blade, I chop it with a small hatchet on a block of iron.


Don
shortstop20
I cut mine with a huge knippers we had at my dad's shop. Probably 1 ft. long handles on it. Definitly hard to cut which isn't a bad thing.
jbshocks
now I am jelous that I put mere mortal rope in my pro. Where do you get this 4z stuff?
shortstop20
From member 4Z on SnoWest.
need2snow
FYI, Also check the metal flared piece that the rope goes through, it's riveted to the console, most are not tilted down enough and the rope frays from rubbing on the sharp edge instead of the rounded flared part like it should. I tilted it down on all of our sleds.
kneedeep
so I am finally doing the job. I got the 2 rear engine mounting nuts off and the front mounting bolts. The carbs are pulled as well as the belt and exhaust including y pipe. The engine stop is also loosened to the max.

The engine won't come out. It keeps hitting the steering post. I have removed the upper and lower steering post mounting joints but the post is still in the way. It almost looks like I have to remove the rear mounting bolts, not just the nuts.

I am going to change the track anyways but that was a job for later. If I pull the drivers, do I have access to the rear engine mounting bolts from underneath?
shortstop20
QUOTE(kneedeep @ Aug 18 2008, 08:49 PM) *
If I pull the drivers, do I have access to the rear engine mounting bolts from underneath?


No, they are threaded into the bulkhead and you can't even see them from underneath.
Alleycat35
QUOTE(shortstop20 @ Jun 4 2008, 02:26 AM) *
From member 4Z on SnoWest.


That is 7mm climbers rope. it is available from most outdoor outfitters.
kneedeep
so I finally finished off last night. This is not an easy job with a big block engine.

1) the upper steering post and the lower steering post mounts must be removed. The steering post does not allow the big block engine to come up far enough to access the recoil cover bolts.

2) the handlebars must be disconnected from the steering post to allow it to rotate forward and out of the way

3) the mag side cooling lines have to be removed

This is definately a big job but that is the price you pay for owning a modifed sled. Total time was 4-5 hours, not including breaks for swearing and getting band-aids. I could probably cut that in half next time.
shortstop20
I took mine out without removing anything, doesn't make sense why you couldn't. dunno.gif
kneedeep
QUOTE(shortstop20 @ Aug 27 2008, 11:07 AM) *
I took mine out without removing anything, doesn't make sense why you couldn't. dunno.gif


does the 03 pro-x have over the engine steering post?
shortstop20
My mistake, I did not realize you were talking about an '04 Pro-XR.
kneedeep
QUOTE(shortstop20 @ Aug 27 2008, 06:21 PM) *
My mistake, I did not realize you were talking about an '04 Pro-XR.



so I pull the rope and it didn't engage . I screwed up re-assembling the recoil. After yelling at my kids, cursing my dog, and renewing an old resentment with a high school guy I haven't seen for 20 years, I begin again.

2 hours later, job is pretty much done. The steering post does have to come forward but you only have to remove one coolant line - the inlet to the coolant bottle. It comes off too to make life easier.

All done, now it is time to make amends to a few people.

BTW, stubby ratcheting wrenches ( 9/16 and 10 mm) really helps with engine mounting bolts and one of the recoil cover bolts.

BTW, how do you like the 03? I am thinking of another project and am real close to picking up a 2003 race 440 pro-x. I have another 700 engine so it should get easier next time.
shortstop20
I haven't ridden an '04 but I love my '03. Only sled I'd trade it for would be an IQ or REV XP.
Ridin' again?
QUOTE(XCR1250 @ May 30 2008, 05:25 PM) *
As does SLP, 5000 PSI rope, unbreakable.
Don



Just what I needed to see today. Finally got the 800 all put back together and second pull the @$*^^(*%$(&$$%@%$@*^% rope breaks off! I'm ordering SLP stuff today. Starting to think this sled doesn't want to be run ever again! Only good thing is I think it took about 5 minutes to get the recoil assembly off.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2008 Invision Power Services, Inc.