I was trying to figure out my clutching changes I need for drive and driven. I have a 2004 prox700 but I'm changing it to a 800 twin. Crank went and ruined top end at the same time. Getting a torqe master bottom end from indy speciality also. What do you guys recommend for clutching and main jets? What all should I change in my old 700 clutching?

Primary 140-310 primary spring with 70 gram dalton and?


Secondary 420 720 Helix, Black Red Spring and?


Thanks a bunch guys!

Don't forget about the delrin washers for the Team secondary.

Where and how many?

one under the spring cup , one in the cup and one on the other end of the spring.

Hey Thanks Guys! Might be picking your brains more in the near future.

that 70 weight may be bit heavy, im runnin 68 grams in my 800, pulls like a train with the 720 helix on the steeper angle, almnd/blue primary, blk/red secondary, jetted 430 mains. hope it helps ya, and definately get a slp engine torque mount kit, 800 eats motor mounts like candy

Yes I was thinking I would put the (SLP) WMS cusion torqe arm on it for sure. Anyone use this or there engine push arm thats supposed to sit under the recoil and make contact with it?

Is there any benefit in using a motor plate instead of the stock motor mount straps? I see Indy Dan has a motor mount plate and was curious if its worth the money or even needed?

Where do you guys recommend getting clutch parts? I think Dalton makes excellent wieghts maybe? What is stock wieght on an 800 prox? Sorry I ask too many questions! Figure where better to ask then the people who actually know . and much appreciated!

The torque and push arms are a great idea. The torque arm is a necessity, the mag side push arm is extra insurance. I use Polaris 10-68 weights, but I hear the Dalton weights are great. Stock weights in a Pro-X 800 are 10-64.

motor plate supplies much more support, and is the best way to keep drive belt in perfect alignment, the only downside to some people is the increse in high frequency vibration. my 800 actually broke the rod end used in the slp torque strap kit, i replaced it with an arctic-cat tie rod end . still holding up. check out you primary clutch , should be no more than than .020" between new belt and clutch sheave. if exceeds more than .020 you'll loose some bottom.

^^^^^^^
good points, I agree. I have a one piece motor plate, torque arm, and stock motor mounts. Never had any motor mount or belt problems. Inspect the belt before every ride and if you have a feeling something is wrong or the belt is about ready to blow STOP. One blown belt can bend your crank. Bend the crank and it's all downhill from there.

helix and springs i buy from TEAM. dalton and polaris 10 series weights all available from hi performance engineering....www.hiperf.com if you work on your secondary clutch i recomend the 420720 team dual angle helix, and add delrin washers. i noticed big improvements in my 800 x-2..

Awsome Thanks Guys!

Dalton weights have better midrange hit then the polaris 10's. I would stay with 68 gram if your running near stock motor and trail ride, lakes you may see more top speed with 70 grams but they dont back shift as good and labor alittle on and off the power. corner to corner the 68 grams work best in most cases.

Thanks Mark good information to know, I was just gettin ready to order the clutch parts. My new crank/upper from Indy Specialty is on the way! Anyone here ever get a crank or motor done by Indy Dan? Just curious most of what I hear is all good or excellent. Anyone have experience with a set of SLP ceramic coated twins on an 800 ves? I can't decide if I want the single or twins.

I had my 800 done by Indy Dan(it's the stock crank, before he started doing the billet PTO ends). Over 2500 miles(not alot I know) on the motor so far, no problems, runs great.

New 800 crank/motor finally here from Indy Specialty! Let the build begin! Can't believe he gives a 3 year warrenty on his 800 cranks. Must be the shit! Can't wait for snow again as scary as that may sound! Good thing its a ways off though tons of work to do these next few months. Like Christmas for the big boys!

send the jugs to flannery while you have it apart,slp perfomance edtion pipe, slp head, 162 hp. the way poo should have built it ! i have been riding the tripples fot ever, did a 04 xc8 last year, perk,e-start, i love this sled and you better have a damm good running tripple to get by it on the trail! got 1100 trouble free miles on it since the build, still makes me smile every time i think about putting it to my buds well set up d&d 03 zr9 last winter! i could pull him by 2 in the midrange and stay there, didnt even need to get the xcr out of the barn!!

Maybe a dumb question but what and who is Flannery? Trail porting I assume? From what I'm told a trail port really isn't worth it for the money spent compared to what you get out of it. Anyone tell me otherwise? Contact information for flannery? and is it better than an SLP trail port? Indy Dan talked me out of the trail porting or I would of had him do it before he sent them to me. You have a single pipe from SLP or twin? Didn't think you could get 160 hp with just heads and a single pipe? Nice looking sleds btw.

flannery motorsports, 269=792=0070, just s. of grand rapids, wayland mich. yes trail ported, slp head, they [slp] make 2 differant single pipes, the performance edtion pipe works better on ported motor. mine is trail ported! have tempa flo on it also, once setup, just ride. do you need porting? is it worth the money ? well if 2nd is ok , then no you dont. go to the xcr forum, everyone there knows doug flannery he has done 4 xcr8s of mine and a 1100, and built motors for all kinds of racing. and yes you can get 162hp with the slp perfarmance edtion setup and dougs porting ,i have one!