M7_4me
May 14 2008, 09:03 PM
Can you do it to a new track?
I have a new Attack 20 that I am thinking about porting just not sure of the best way.
NDMtnSledder
May 14 2008, 09:48 PM
Take a hole saw grind the teeth off and kinda put a sharp edge to it so its one continuous cutting edge basically instead of a bunch of teeth. I've never tried it just what all the threads i've read say and what most of the companies are selling in there porting kits.
cmanz28
May 14 2008, 09:53 PM
Ironically I just bought a 1 1/4" hole saw today. I plan on doing exactly what NDMtnSledder said with my A20 that I just bought also!
polarisfornow
May 15 2008, 04:26 PM
I've heard that heating up the hole saw is a good thing to do because it melts the track so it can seal itself back up....I'm sure there is a thread about that somewhere.
05snopro440
May 15 2008, 09:20 PM
Don't know if you would need to heat the holesaw very much, it's gonna heat up as soon as it you touch it to the track. Also, if you heat it up (too much) it won't be as strong when you push it into the track to cut.
mr p-j
May 27 2008, 01:48 PM
i used a flat wood-drill to port my track
it looks like this.
http://www.hilti.se/holse/modules/prcat/pr...c.jsp?OID=20411thees drils work great for driling in rubber. the actual hole gets a little smaler then the drill just so you know. about 2 mm.
NDMtnSledder
May 27 2008, 09:34 PM
I would suggest avoiding the wood bit. The idea behind the continuous cutting hole saw is that there is nothing to catch and tear the cords in the track. I would think the wood bit could tear the cords.
ArcticFX
May 28 2008, 05:10 AM
QUOTE(NDMtnSledder @ May 27 2008, 11:34 PM)

I would suggest avoiding the wood bit. The idea behind the continuous cutting hole saw is that there is nothing to catch and tear the cords in the track. I would think the wood bit could tear the cords.
I agree....I think you want it like a stud bit, just larger....is 7/8" good...or smaller?
NDMtnSledder
May 28 2008, 10:37 PM
Most i've read about go between 1 1/4 and 2 and if you look at factory ported tracks now they look like they are in that 1 1/2 inch range.
jakecase
May 29 2008, 07:56 AM
I believe all the do it yourself'rs have agree'd on a 1.25" holesaw. I'm sure 1.5" wouldn't hurt, but I'm sure 2" holes would be getting pretty close to the base of each lug.
ArcticFX
May 29 2008, 08:08 AM
Anybody heard what kind weight savings guys are getting by doing this?
w8ing4snow
May 29 2008, 12:02 PM
You only save about 2 pounds. But the track turns alot easier and you can will gain track speed in deep snow.
05snopro440
May 29 2008, 12:47 PM
QUOTE(ArcticFX @ May 29 2008, 08:08 AM)

Anybody heard what kind weight savings guys are getting by doing this?
While you only lose a couple pounds off the weight of the track, from the deep snow challenge in the March 2008 SnoWest Magazine, you get about half the snow buildup in your suspension when your track is ported. About 25 pounds.
ArcticFX
May 29 2008, 01:40 PM
QUOTE(05snopro440 @ May 29 2008, 02:47 PM)

While you only lose a couple pounds off the weight of the track, from the deep snow challenge in the March 2008 SnoWest Magazine, you get about half the snow buildup in your suspension when your track is ported. About 25 pounds.
Couple pounds of rotating mass is pretty huge when it comes to putting power to the ground !!
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