Ok, I'm changing my wifes hacksaw to a ripsaw and almost done just have a question about which way is the best way to reinstall the skid?

Do you mount that front rod then push the skid in or leave the rod in the skid and try to bolt it in? And remember I'm trying to make this a one man job and have the sled on a sled left as I would rather not tip the sled over, the Z1 is heavy for one person to tip.

Thanks!

Side note I do have the hacksaw 1" with 120 studs for sale. I will post it over later this week.

You are creating WAY to much work for yourself. Just tip it over on its side. It will be worth it.

You wil be shocked how EASY this is. Trust me it will save you a ton of time.

Loosen the track all the way.
Lay the sled on the DD side on some protective padding.
Remove ONLY the rear bolts on the skid frame
Pull the skid frame back and then slide it out to a 45 degree angle and pull the skid out
Set the Parking brake.
Remove the bolt inside the drive shaft.
Remove the spanner nut on that holds the brake disc on
Remove all the bolts that hold the brake assembly
Remove the brake assembly
You can now pull the drive shaft out the brake side.

When installing the drive shaft, track and skid leave the sled on it's side DD down.
Lay the skid inside the track and place it at a 45 degree angle inside the tunnel on the front skid support
Slid the drive shaft through the track and in to the DD. You will need to play with it to line it up.
When in place assemble the brake.
With parking brake set install the bolt in the drive shaft with lots of RED lock tight on it to 70 flbs
Start the rear bolt on the skid
If you can reach the other side start that bolt too.
tip the sled back up and tighten the rear skid frame bolts
tighten the track and then start and aline track.

When you hang around a race team that always is removing their skid you learn some tricks that save you a ton of time.

Might want to pin this at the top? Going to need it in the fall!

And to tip the sled on it's side just lift the ski loop. It'll roll right over. Pull down on the loop to set it down.

Thanks guys, I will have to get something so the sled doesn't break the mirrors, I have seen some stands for the end of the handle bars. And yes, got it out very easy just getting it in the hard thing.

hey frank i did the same thing to my jag and it was a pain in the a$$ to get it back in i put the rod in the skid and worked it up in till i could see the rod and threaded it in and then went to the back and conpressed the skid until the holes lined up.Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

I'm going to try it the way described above, maybe next time, however I do mine by removing the brake nut and inner bolt then the Ddrive case. 15 min job there max. to install skid, I leave the front shaft in the tunnel, raise the back from the hoist ( a sled lift would be very hard to work around), *remove the torsion springs from the rail at the front legs, this collapses the skid and lets it be worked in, also lets the rear arm be raised easily by hand to start the back bolts. If you have trouble lifting the weigth of the rear arm by one hand you can raise or lower the sled body off the bumper or use a floor jack under the track and skid to raise nad lower it till the bolts line up. then tighten the bolts, and reattach the springs, that part does takes a bit of force.

Installing the skid with the machine on it's side may be great if you have 2 or 3 guys, but by yourself it is impossible. You can't steady the machine, hold onto the track and lift the skid in with only one set of hands, let alone getting a bolt threaded. Everything is in motion and moving around on you and you are holding the full weight of the skid. It sounds good in theory and is the way Cat says to do it in the manual, but in theory it doesn't work. Certainly not by yourself. At least with the machine sitting upright, stuff only moves when you move it and your sled isn't going to get all scratched up. You might even survive it without getting hurt.

I have not had the skid out of my F5, but I have done older Cat's. I think Stronger800 has the right idea about how he has done it in the past. You need something to adjust the rear of the machine up and down. Get the front arm hooked first with the rear of the frame up high. Then play with the height of the frame to line up the rear. It's a pain in the butt at best. Sometimes a case of beer and a couple of buddies is the best way to go.

Installing the skid with the machine on it's side may be great if you have 2 or 3 guys, but by yourself it is impossible. You can't steady the machine, hold onto the track and lift the skid in with only one set of hands, let alone getting a bolt threaded. Everything is in motion and moving around on you and you are holding the full weight of the skid. It sounds good in theory and is the way Cat says to do it in the manual, but in theory it doesn't work. Certainly not by yourself. At least with the machine sitting upright, stuff only moves when you move it and your sled isn't going to get all scratched up. You might even survive it without getting hurt.




THIS IS FALSE!!!! I can tell you haven't tried it. I have been removing and reinstalling my skids like this for years. The machine needs to be propped up against somthing so it will not move atound. Maybe some 4x4s or something. You will find that it take you just min by yourself instead of cussing at it as your tring to LIFT the skid and aline the holes. Try it you will like it.

Installing the skid while its on the side is the best way fastest (imo), I can install a skid in about 10 minutes with hand tools and no extra hands, no loosening tracks, popping springs off(really silly ways). No offense, but I laugh when I see suggestions for many ridiculous installation tips. Just use a pry bar, and use it to line up the rear bolts(install the front two first), by sticking the bar in the track windows and pushing against the swing arm, with the brakes locked.

well, guys tipping works the best for me. And thanks for the tip by using the ski to tip, I was amazed how easy that big sled tip over!

But I forgot to post these photos before. Has anyone else noticed this wear on their skids?

that wear is a "cat thing". it is very common. replace those spacers that are worn through. you do need to check that the bolts holding that shaft are not loose, I'm not sure if yours has one long crosss bolt or two short ones threaded in, either way, they commonly come loose and wear down-ward into the rails. this lets that shaft rub into the track even more and the wear you have gets worse. some guys ever notice or check them becasue they are hidden behind the wheels. I use two shallow wall short 3/8 drive, 9/16 sockets on swivel extensions to check that location on any cat. problematic since the 90's. they had a few good years that used a double bolt system with gussets. '01 800 and some earlier sno-pros. I put these brackets on a few newer sleds just for safety. but the spacing will not fit the new sleds. check that lower shock eye and bushing too.

I had my rails replced last fall, 2000 miles........the bolts loosened and egged out the bolt holes...

I didn't notice unitl, I had the skid out........

deffinitly need to keep an eye on these.

Max