I know this has been beat to death, but I need to put the feelers out. I'm sure we have all been through the 800 crank posts, I know I have been numerous times since 2003. I can't believe there still isn't a sure thing. It's apparant that Indydan is a great guy, all you need to do is read any of his posts. The problem is that I have a big problem with $1300 for a crank whether the PTO end has a warranty or not. I have heard of failures on Snowest of not just Dan's but SLP, Carl's and any wide bearing kit in general. I (we) need a good crank guy. Someone that can change rods, weld pins, and otherwise add some reliabilty. I firmly believe (with others) that an engine plate in lieu of straps to limit case flex is the first step to a more durable crank. It's looking like my next mill may be a reliable, 190hp pump gas twin based off the affordable and available big block. It looks like I may be able to build this engine for under $3000 complete. Right now, the limiting factor is a guy that can do a reliable stroker crank. Anyone have a good lead?
Thanks,
Jim

Jim what do you have up your sleeve now? Whose cylinders are you using? Good luck with the crank thing, after reading the snowest debockle who knows who to use. I hope that is just an isolated problem.

Jim a good crank guy thats been around for many years and does all makes but his heart is with POLARIS. He is a machinist by trade but has done crank work and cyl boring for many years. He is from Bristol Quebec His name is Willie Dodds 1-819-647-5844 Here is a pic of some of his old iron at a vintage show this winter. Bruce

You guys are awesome. I can't divulge my plan yet, but will. If it pans out I will "put out". Not UBR though, not that Kurt isn't providing a good product. I have been doing my research though. ;-) This will be a little "ground up" so I also need a good re-nic company. I currently use US Chrome and have since 1993 when I was running Mercury 3.4L 300hp outboards and then the 2.5 EFI offshores. Needless to say, I used them a lot. Mostly unhappy with them now.
Keep it coming, you guys are the bomb.
Jim

Jim from reading those posts on snowest it sounds that if you have a solid case and crank you will be set if you have a good motor plate, good torque and push arm and a balanced clutch. I have 3500 on my 800 bottom end with no problem and I run a torque and push arm with a balanced clutch, I may be lucky though. Good luck

Jim,
The crank thing really isn't too difficult. The issue lies with the cases. Line hone them to .002 crush and use a crank with the big bearing. Use a motor plate and reasonably fresh clutch and call it a day. The welding doesn't help much and if the cases aren't up to snuff will cause the crank wheel to crack at the pin. The cause is in the crank end walking around due to lack of bearing support. This happens from a bunch of different scenarios, but if you have a fresh crank with the big bearing mod and line honed cases with the engine plate you will be good. If you are starting with a used crank, then getting a new PTO end and replacing the pto side con rod and crank pin would be a good decision too. Without the case work the rest isn't worth a dime.
Neil

Don't for get to balance your clutch:)

All good info Men, thanks for posting. My goal is to find somone I trust to do all of this to the crank, clutch, and cases.

Couple questions i have come up with..

At first it seemed like most crank issues were with the mountain sleds pulling long, big lug tracks, but as ive been reading it seems like they have occurred on sleds of almost any model with the 800 (and some 700s) and riding styles of every kind. I was wondering how much people figure on cost for the big bearing kit and case work (line bore). Is this if you tear everything down and ship out just your crank and the separated cases?

Does it seem like more or less problems have occured while running just a front torque arm?

With the 800ves ppl used to complained of torn motor mounts so it seemed like the slp torque arm (and possibly 90 duro mounts) was a solid cure. Im wondering if by letting the motor vibrate around on the mounts (no front torque arm) will that reduce the case flex and prolong the life of the crank?

Also with a balanced clutch...if im balancing the weights there is quite a large tolerance it seems. To bring them all to the same weight should i take off on the tip, the middle, front?

havent heard to many people running a stroker on the trail, pretty much a race only or lake only engine?

some guys just weld in the hole and grind out the other side press it together and weld. other guys machine in a bushing., then offset machine the bushing to a new stroke. tack the bushing and weld the pin.

it would be interesting to see how long a stroker can run though. i have always been told race only.

Yes and no. If the engine has a short stroke all ready like the 800, you can pretty much stroke without issue. The 800BB with it's 70mm stroke is so far under square that it can use some more rod. Let's face it though, most of the stuff we do was never meant to be and it's a wonder it runs at all. In this instance, the rods are being made with a thicker beam so all I need to do is put them on and mod the cases. The key to the stroker is a much longer intake duration and increased vacuum. More air, more fuel, more power.
Food for thought. One of the reasons the firecat might run so well is it runs the same 70mm stroke as the 800BB with a smaller 80mm piston.
Polaris 700BB- 81x68
Polaris 800BB- 85x70
Firecat 700- 80x70
MachZ1000- 88x82
M9- 81x76

You are right 1sleeper, we do need a good crank guy who can change rods and weld pins (if that is what you want) and line bore cases,install new pto end, wide bearing update and so on. Well i think i found one, his name is John and he owns NORTHERN CRANKSHAFTS. Hes in MN, (218) 681-4577. John rebuilt my crank and did the line bore too. I was real happy with the work and fast turn around. Just another choice for crank work.

eric hanson can do all that stuff. he can build strokers and what not. as long as your check is good he will build what you want. lol

Madcow you are very correct. Hanson Racing Engine's 651-765-2405. Erik does or at least checks all my cranks (440-800 skidoo and polaris, thats all I've owned). During the summer is the time to get him. He really gets busy towards winter, as he does most all the cranks for the high performance shops (SpeedWerks, Hot Seat, Straight Line, etc) and most the dealerships in the Twin Cites. He still has a great turn around time in the winter. He is very, very knowledgeable about the industry and whats going on. Great guy.

Great info here, thanks everyone for contributing.

Clark Spriegel up in Attica NY has been doing my cranks for a while and did my last one which is a 193 HP 76mm stroker twin I ran for 1500 miles on the trail this last season.

Very nice. Do you have a phone number for Clark?
What was that engine you had? Sounds like what I'm looking for.

Maybe here?They supply carls with big bore cylinders that hold up good.The Crank Shop

Actually, my first choice Jetfuel. I'm trying to find those "diamonds in the rough" that do it for love, not money. When all else fails, I will
use crank shop.

Here ya go (585) 591-3126.

I have a 990 twin based on the 800 big block bottom end but has 91mm pistons with crankshop jugs and 76mm stroke. Running twin pipes I had to back the timing down 1 degree and cut the head for a .070 squish so as to not use race gas mix.