I need to know what do I need to change a track
Any special tools?
Problem areas to look out for?
How long should it take?
How do I pull the driveshaft up front?
Sled is a 1995 ZR700 , going to put an asphalt track on it it that matters at all.
Full Version: Help, never changed a track before
QUOTE(michigansportscar @ Apr 2 2008, 10:09 AM) 
I need to know what do I need to change a track
Any special tools?
Problem areas to look out for?
How long should it take?
How do I pull the driveshaft up front?
Sled is a 1995 ZR700 , going to put an asphalt track on it it that matters at all.
Any special tools?
Problem areas to look out for?
How long should it take?
How do I pull the driveshaft up front?
Sled is a 1995 ZR700 , going to put an asphalt track on it it that matters at all.
No special tools.
Change both front bearings
30-45 mins
take apart chaincase remove necessary componets,same for other side,move shaft over to 1 side or the other ,,shouldnt have a prob,,u will see whats going on there
30-45 minutes??? Wow, you must have four hands or something. That's moving.
Anyway, here's what I remember about the job (hopefully I don't leave out any steps)...
1. Pull the caps of the rear wheels and loosen the bolts. Then loosen the jamb nuts on the track adjuster bolts and loosen the track. Then pull the skid out (back bolts come out first.)
2. Pull the secondary clutch off for easier access to the drive shaft bolts on the clutch side. If it hasn't been removed in a while and not greased or never-seized on the shaft it might be stuck. If that's the case it might be easier to just leave it on there.
3. There are three nuts that need to be removed for the speedometer housing -- remove them and remove the speedo housing. Take note of the bearing flange housings as (they look triangular in shape).
4. Drain the oil out of the chaincase and then pull the chaincase cover off; then pull the bolts off the top and bottom sprockets and pull the chain and sprockets off together. I think the chain tensioner is manual adjust so it will help to loosen the chain adjustment bolt first.
5. Now, push the track up into the top corner of the tunnel so the drive shaft sprockets clear the inner track lugs. Now work the driveshaft out.
You should change the bearings at this time. The clutch side bearing has a locking collar that needs to be loosened first. Loosen the hex bolt and using a hammer and punch, tap the locking collar against the direction of rotation until it loosens from the bearing.
Good luck.
Anyway, here's what I remember about the job (hopefully I don't leave out any steps)...
1. Pull the caps of the rear wheels and loosen the bolts. Then loosen the jamb nuts on the track adjuster bolts and loosen the track. Then pull the skid out (back bolts come out first.)
2. Pull the secondary clutch off for easier access to the drive shaft bolts on the clutch side. If it hasn't been removed in a while and not greased or never-seized on the shaft it might be stuck. If that's the case it might be easier to just leave it on there.
3. There are three nuts that need to be removed for the speedometer housing -- remove them and remove the speedo housing. Take note of the bearing flange housings as (they look triangular in shape).
4. Drain the oil out of the chaincase and then pull the chaincase cover off; then pull the bolts off the top and bottom sprockets and pull the chain and sprockets off together. I think the chain tensioner is manual adjust so it will help to loosen the chain adjustment bolt first.
5. Now, push the track up into the top corner of the tunnel so the drive shaft sprockets clear the inner track lugs. Now work the driveshaft out.
You should change the bearings at this time. The clutch side bearing has a locking collar that needs to be loosened first. Loosen the hex bolt and using a hammer and punch, tap the locking collar against the direction of rotation until it loosens from the bearing.
Good luck.
QUOTE(Kevin @ Apr 3 2008, 06:43 AM)
30-45 minutes??? Wow, you must have four hands or something. That's moving.
Anyway, here's what I remember about the job (hopefully I don't leave out any steps)...
1. Pull the caps of the rear wheels and loosen the bolts. Then loosen the jamb nuts on the track adjuster bolts and loosen the track. Then pull the skid out (back bolts come out first.)
2. Pull the secondary clutch off for easier access to the drive shaft bolts on the clutch side. If it hasn't been removed in a while and not greased or never-seized on the shaft it might be stuck. If that's the case it might be easier to just leave it on there.
3. There are three nuts that need to be removed for the speedometer housing -- remove them and remove the speedo housing. Take note of the bearing flange housings as (they look triangular in shape).
4. Drain the oil out of the chaincase and then pull the chaincase cover off; then pull the bolts off the top and bottom sprockets and pull the chain and sprockets off together. I think the chain tensioner is manual adjust so it will help to loosen the chain adjustment bolt first.
5. Now, push the track up into the top corner of the tunnel so the drive shaft sprockets clear the inner track lugs. Now work the driveshaft out.
You should change the bearings at this time. The clutch side bearing has a locking collar that needs to be loosened first. Loosen the hex bolt and using a hammer and punch, tap the locking collar against the direction of rotation until it loosens from the bearing.
Good luck.
Anyway, here's what I remember about the job (hopefully I don't leave out any steps)...
1. Pull the caps of the rear wheels and loosen the bolts. Then loosen the jamb nuts on the track adjuster bolts and loosen the track. Then pull the skid out (back bolts come out first.)
2. Pull the secondary clutch off for easier access to the drive shaft bolts on the clutch side. If it hasn't been removed in a while and not greased or never-seized on the shaft it might be stuck. If that's the case it might be easier to just leave it on there.
3. There are three nuts that need to be removed for the speedometer housing -- remove them and remove the speedo housing. Take note of the bearing flange housings as (they look triangular in shape).
4. Drain the oil out of the chaincase and then pull the chaincase cover off; then pull the bolts off the top and bottom sprockets and pull the chain and sprockets off together. I think the chain tensioner is manual adjust so it will help to loosen the chain adjustment bolt first.
5. Now, push the track up into the top corner of the tunnel so the drive shaft sprockets clear the inner track lugs. Now work the driveshaft out.
You should change the bearings at this time. The clutch side bearing has a locking collar that needs to be loosened first. Loosen the hex bolt and using a hammer and punch, tap the locking collar against the direction of rotation until it loosens from the bearing.
Good luck.
Maybe an hour then,lol.I have done this job about 50 times,it gets like second nature after a while.But you definatly covered everything.
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