Hi I am looking for some input as to which of these mods would be better for me to do. First off I have a stock 01 T-cat other than a goodwin clutch kit with 2K for miles. I am also going to be putting a 136"/1.25" track kit on during the off season. What I would like to know is if I would be better off with a set of KN type filters or a power breather type air box. I mostly trail ride but also enjoy the long staight a ways. I am also considering a set of pipes that would go into my stock silencer-any one better than the other-more trailable/reliable? I don't want to do any cutting to the motor as of right now as to I plan on keeping this sled for a very long time. Thanks for any input in advance.

I have not tried the long track or filters before. Off the top I would suggest cut the heads, Vforce reeds,power breather lid for airbox, Simmons or Black Magis pipes into stock can. Someone on here can set you up with the right suspension setup and gearing for the longtrack.

Slip on K&Ns will slow you down is most every condition and also make your engine very finicky. Gut the airbox add lid and rejet. Pipes would be a nice add on to, head cut is always nice but usually requires premium. Fresh clutch springs and belt every season along with jetting for the daily conditions will be the cheapest and payoff the most

All good recommendations except instead of jetting per ride conditions, install a Holtzman Tempa-Flow, you jet to -20* and unit does all the rest per ride conditions--No messing with jets BUT all the advantages-Automatically. You can add degree key instead of cutting heads its cheaper and can be removed if you wanted to.

or...... I have a complete bolt on setup that will be sure to put a big smile on your face without having to cut any parts of your engine...

I will warn you about this option, although this is what I would probably do, after trying this , you will NEVER go back to riding a stock sled again!!!!!

yes indeed, it is quite fun for sure... the girl has been a great reliable trail sled... all this talk makes me want to hold onto everything..

Before you go to the 136"/1.25" contact TALLCOOL1 on this form about engine cooling issues with the 136" Buy a set of Black Magic pipes (into the stock muffler) and clutch kit for the pipes, V-Force3 reeds and a Holtzman Tempa Flow. If you buy the pipes from Black Magic call Rory (1-218-681-1150) and ask him about the airbox and flywheel timing key. He will give you the streight scoop and you will be one happy camper.

Auggie

I run a 136 but mine is also a MC lmt I'm assuming the rear cooler is not as big in a 121 as the MC
because I have never had a cooling issue,,,ever!!

Yah thats the problem, there is no rear cooler on the 121".

Auggie

all of the suggestions so far are power adders, 3 years on two tcat 1000s has convinced me that traction is the best bang for the buck. all my mods were worthless until this year when i finally found bite. you can have all the power in the world... if you cant put it down, what good is it?

that is a great point but we mainly run rail beds in northern maine where most of it is long straight hardpack and for the past couple of years I have not run studs on my thundercat. on hardpack I have found that I get more bite with a properly setup suspension than having a ton of studs. you cannot beat a 1" predator track and it has been nice not having to replace the track every couple years. on the flip side, if you run the ice I would certainly stud.

I would stay away from K&N filters on a trail sled........put on the D&D air box lid / try coating the stock pipes and spinning them a little higher rpm (8400) / a good clutch set up / stock gear / boysen pedals in the stock cages / and a 1" predator track- 3rd window closed track with 192 sharpened 1.175 golddiggers. Set your suspension to transfer proper / and buy the sled pro tool to align the clutch -motor 100%.....and with that......you should run you into the high teens -low 120's in 2000 feet on good ice........will be reliable/ good on fuel ....and will save you a few thousand $$.

Cheers

Thanks for all of the info. Since I am going to be going with a 136 track kit how many studs should I add to get a decent hole shot on ice but with out giving up to much for the occasional of trail venture. And what would be the max length of lugs and studs recomended for all around use? I think I am going to get a sdet of pipes into stock can from bmp or d&d. With the addision of the pipes, v-force reeds, and power breather what octane fuel should be the minimum then. I am also going to add the temp a flow as to so many have recomended it. Sorry for all of the questions but this is my first T-cat and I want to get as much info as possible on anything that I am going to do as to this is my idea a dream sled that is finaly coming together. Now if I can keep my wife from wanting it the way she did when I got my srx done-I think it's going to be hard!

Unless you're adding a timing key or cutting the heads, the octane requirement will stay the same. You can run it on regular . I always ran super in all of my sleds to be safe though. I would run three studs on each bar up the centre of the track.

192 studs or none at all. 240 is too much weight and 144 is not enough penetration

On a 136" track three studs per bar is around 190 something I think.

Hi there!

What pro tool are you talking about?

Thanks.

Royaldistributing.com sells them, part number: 03-28497 , they retail for $19.95 . I believe they ship worldwide.

Thanks!