Prevois post: http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/inde...howtopic=309113

I am not an expert but based on my current knowledge this is what I believe happened. The water pump seal leaked and took out the outer bearing on the counter balancing shaft. WHen I looked at it, the crank was still lying in the motor an appeared to spin freely. It appears to have munched a few of the ball bearing. No water damage past second counter balance bearing. The bearing may have spun but very minimal damage to the case. The counterbalance shaft seems fine except for the bearing.

Please comment!

PS a few members have come forward with parts...many thanks.

Since you are going to split the cases. Do it right! Have the bearing rebuilt with all ne bearings. I got one from RV sports 3 years ago for $800. Then do the same with the Counter balance. That will run around $250. Then you need $75 for seals. The crank bearings are like $60 each, not including pushing them on and off.
Not a cheap thing.

I got a complete 1100 big bore with everything but electronics for sale if interested? just drop in and go, new 85mm pistons and rings, welded crank, cylinders done by dan hull, very, very strong motor, it has been in my trail sled for the last 4 years just updated to a psi 1300 so thats why im selling. Many people on this form have seen this motor run, just put a post out and ask questions you wont be dissipointed. 2,500.00 which is a steal for what i have invested. 734-777-1886.

I got it home the other day and took a good look.
It appears to me that I need:

2 crank bearings( each side of cb gear) they seem tight but are just a bit dry/noisy from some coolant.

3 CB bearings

1 - C-Ring

Can I buy these bearings somewhere cheaper than the AC dealer? The races have the part numbers.

Any advice would be appreciated....thanks

When I was looking into this, I contacted a bearing ditributor. They would sell them to me at less than half price of Cat. BUT the issue is pushing them on and off. You can find a rebuilt cb with bearings cheaper than buying the bearings and having someone push them.

DO the aftermarket bearings (from a distributer) have the dowl holes?

I just had the same thing happen to my 900 about 3 weeks ago. Counterbalancer bearings took out the water pump seal, flushed inside with coolant. Noticed a antifreeze smell and alot of steam from the exhaust while,coasting to a stop ahead sign, shut it off right away.

The stock counterbalancer bearings are (3) NTN 6205C4 (1) 6205NC4 grooved, C4 1 size looser internal clearance. The bearings I got from cat, sealed right in the Suzuki boxes were all the same 6205N, all grooved standard clearance. Cat numbers 3004-209(3), and 3004-208(1) I was charged 2 different prices, with 2 different part numbers with same bearings. Maybe a rev. change from cat, or they probably don't care anymore, LOL. I pressed them apart at work on an arbor press, also put a new impeller shaft in, used Mobil 1 synthetic red grease to pack the bearings. Before pulling the impeller shaft measure the length it sticks out of the counterbalancer. Use a socket, some washers and a good strong bolt with plenty thread engagement to pull the impeller shaft. Keep adding washers as it gets pulled out. Check for runout when it's all pressed back together.

None of the counterbalancer bearings have dowel holes. My crank never even had a single dowel in it, none of the holes must have lined up from the factory. So they slapped it together, I mean carefully assembled it.

Great info thanks. I am going to buy a few at the local auto parts today. They should be able to cross reference. Now all I need is a press