any of you people here try vforce reeds in your 700 Dragon, if so what have you found in gains , seat of pants , MPH and so on, also anyone that is using Delrin washers on there secondary ,what gains have you found.
I have found my self that the dragon does not want to pull to the top of the primary clutch.
BR

I did put a set of Boyosen replacement pedals in mine... but noticed nothing different anywhere.

I have yet to try the Delrins. However, FWIW, I do know that running 22/40 gearing will pull all the way to the top of the clutch! But that's only running 96mph.

Thanks Buddy, have you had any luck with your button secondary, I wish I had one on my sled, I just ordered some delrin washers for my sled I know there is alot more in this sled once I get a handle on this funcky seconday.
BR

anyone

BR, got the secondary here but hadn't done anything with it yet. Will be doing that this weekend now that we finally have ice down here.

Been strugling with my RPM on my Dragon. With SLP pipe, at first over reving to 8550. Went clear up to 68 mtx with 3 gr & 3 gr. Plulled it for a day or 2 then started loosing RPM. Went back to 65 MTX with 2gr. & 3 gr. Still loosing RPM. down to 7000. Put Delrin washers in. No help. Replaced SLP pink / Black primary spring. Almost right now. 8300 max recall 8350. But once in a while when I mash the trigger it only gos to 8100? Like the secondary is hanging up. Had it apart to put Delrin washers in. Every thing seemed ok.

SLP says no gains with v-force on 700ho and that is even with their porting.

Funny, I was just talking to HTG and asked them if they tried vforce in the 07 700 dragon they were testing , they said yes and they make a big improvement, hmmmmmmmm..lol

I can tell you they made a large improvment in the older 700 twins

Hey Buddy, just for a laugh why dont you try a 52/34 or 52/36 helix with poo silver/blue in 2nd or 3rd hole and a almond/black with 66s in primary, and call me in the morning...lol. no but let me know what you think of it or some where around there..
BR

That was kinda my plan, 10-66's with a 50/36 or 52/36 helix. I think the thing came with a R11 which would be close enough. I have about 4 of those silver/blue's laying around too. Will keep you posted.

I played with the button clutch on my 07 dragon last week. 22/40, 10-64,165/310prim. 52/34 slp prog. slp pipe, v-force 3, cold air pods. chisel track , 660'. I could only pull 7800rpm. ???????????

SLP program huh?????

Did you get their porting kit? Any improvements in acceleration and gas mileage?

52/34 progressive helix! no porting!

OK so it went 7800 , but how did it pull?

Oh gotcha.

I have 68gram mtx with 3 gram in the tip, pull 8150 then creep to 8250. But my acceleration is slow for some reason.

145 primary spring, waiting for my 58 42 36 helix and gonna compare back to back with the stock and the 719. the 58* is on backorder.

it did pull alot better than the team clutch. but i still think it could pull alot harder. i use the same setup in my 01 700 and it rips (alot of mods). is there any way to get the timing curve changed.acts like it may fall off to quick.

where are you guys getting the button secondary?

Just the old Edge, Gen2 button secondary's. Gotta key your jackshaft though to use em.

I am gonna get the new slp porting and reflash that have listed for the dragon after this season ends. I think that is the only cure for fuel/spark map on this sled.

Port it know and let me know hoe it works I want to do something to get mine moving a little more. Would you need a boondocker than?

Just found out the reason my sled burned down was I had a bad injector. I think this probably was the result of my poor gas mileage on bad performance, which all of you have patiently listened to my whining since day one.

I can't wait to get it back and see how she flies now. I am planning to get an SLP pipe and can for the sled, but didnt wan't to throw more money at it until I knew for sure I could count on it.

We will have to see how it pulls my clutching now. Excited as the day I first got it. Hopefully the reflash works better now...etc. etc. etc......

Will post later with updates. My dealer is very very good to me.

first of all before u du anything get all ur trouble codes checked by the digital wrench.

TPS and Timing are very very important.

TPS should be .950

Timing 18*BTDC @ 1700 RPM with the sled @ 120 degress F

get ur clutches aligned and put in a SLP torque stop.

do all this before u do anything else

Brock - how do you check your timing on this sled? I would like to know if mine is correct?

u need a dail indicator and a good timing lite.

just go to a good reputable dealer.

I have both though, how to put them in order to see?

168 studs slp pipe and can 0 clucthing no air box mods(yet)low and mid insane mid to top
awesome,not 1 xp has touched me since pipe and can. My fuel milage increased slightly
always arond 14 mpg driven hard,oil consumption 126 miles to 1L ,my advice forget slp
clutch recommondations haven't tried and won't.0 PLUGS PROBLEMS ALSO.

I am glad to hear your sled is rocking, what MPH have you seen? So far I have just re shimmed my clutch to about 15 thou , the sled is working awesome, I have no mods , not even studs. I tell you when my track grabs some hard pack it pulls my arms off. I will be putting studs in next year, that will make a huge difference . All I have done is align track perfect and clutches, also floating the secondary a bit, oh ya adjust ski alignment as well, rear blocks on low setting and springs on soft. The more I ride this sled the more it im loving it. I am going to try a primary spring or two and throw some vforce in. Out of all the sleds I have owned this is the best trail sled hands down!

Well, after the snow we got with some drifts across the lake yesterday it was way to inconsistant to do any testing today. Was out on the lake but didn't even bother to try the button secondary due to conditions. I hate trying to tune when having inconsistant conditions.

However, met a buddy of mine out on the lake that was trying to tune in a '07 F1000 with EFI control box and aftermarket single pipe and Y pipe..... dead even with my dragon across the lake (5"-6" of snow). It had a 1" track. Today I was running 10-68's (not ground down like my other ones were), 160-350 TRA spring with stock 66/44 and a 140/200 spring I've had in since last season. This was all with stock gearing (23/39).

LOL...... i guess he was not to happy, How many studs you got buddy? Im going to be clutching around the 10-66 weights with springs, then when I get studs possibly a helix change , like is said when this sled gets its double backer stud treatment it will be a animal!

Well, he is just tuning it for the guy... so it must have been much slower in stock form??!!!

96 studs (all I ever use) inside and outside belts of track. 66's are a good all around weight to clutch with. I'm running 10-68's but am sacrificing a little in some area's.

700 HO,

How do you pile on the miles and post on the computer constantly?

Do you also have a laptop in your analog?

Just a wonderin'?

Have you tried SLP's clutching? Most seem to think it works quite well with SLP's pipe/can/air horn mods. I liked the idea of wrapping the SLP pipe with the stock "heat shield". These sleds have proven to like a "HOT" pipe....

Brock, AFJ, Big Fuse....

Thoughts?

Kidd

to keep the heat in the pipe at all times,that's a good idea.

a hot pipe = HP

I don't do anything in the winter,nothing but time on my hands.

Jail?

A well to do farmer ,couldn't ask for a better life .

you guys get any rain down there?

YES !!!!!!!!!

11-66 black/green
42* 155/222
3800 take off and 8350max rpm 101mph
rpm's would fish back and forth @ trail speed.
maybe this is a secondary problem

The 11 series weights pull wicked hard on the bottom end.
trying same setup with almond / blue primary
waiting for 56/42/36 helix

UPS dropped me a fresh Dynoport pipe the other day.........
looks like the temp sensor will hardly make it into the pipe.
wondering how this will effect fuel mgt. / timing

Have yet to put EGT's on this sled. I was thinking of going A/F meter instead.

go to a 44 finish angle on the end,a 42 takes to long to shift out and isn't very trail friendly.

Wouldnt it still be the same becuase the lesser angle is easier for the motor to seperate the sheeves?