Is i possible to set the rear suspension for that loose, slide around the corner, feel like the older xc's use to have? I love the sled but it drives to much like a car for me. I no the high center of gravity adds to the pushing or stable feel of this sled. Did search the threads here and haven't really seen much info on setin the suspension for this feel. Majority of my rideing is on groomed trails. I have uncranked the front spring, set the coil springs to the low setting and set the rear blocks for the most travel both ways. havn't touched the limiter strap yet. Want to see what i read here first. thanks in advance for any sugestions..

Which track are you running? Studs- how many/location?

no studs, stock track, ski's and carbides. Havn't touched the front spring settings ethere.Only screwed around witht the rear suspension settings with no progress in the direction i would like to go. the sled only has 900 miles on it, so it's broke in. thanks.

I'd try more ski pressure and 8" or 10" of carbide up front. That should increase oversteer, especially with no studs.

In my comparably novice opnion,

Setting the rear scissor stops to 'low' will allow more weight transfer to the track and thus more track traction. This will also let skis raise causing less pressure up there and make your sled push more. Therefore, putting the rear scissor stops on high setting (dots to arm) will help skis stay on ground better for more frt traction and lessen weight transfer to the track.

Same goes for anything else you've done to let frt come up (less ski traction) and weight to go to rear (more track traction).

If you have a 1.25" Ripsaw then you will probably never totally get the 'slide it sideways' manueverability (sp?) you'd get with the XC's assuming you did not install a 1.25" Ripsaw in that. After playing with certain things and thinking about them, I'm starting to feel quite comfortable in the thought that this track is why I have more inside ski lift than I kind of don't want to have. Riding behind these sleds and older one's gives good insight also.

Again, just my novice IMHO, my summary is too increase traction up frt and lessen it in the rear thru suspension settings first and then maybe with better ski's and/or carbides (my stock ski's with Shapers grabbed hard) only when you get it all dialed in. Again, if you have a 1.25" Ripsaw you may not get exactly where you want to be when comparing against the XC's.

<<<my summary is too increase traction up frt and lessen it in the rear thru suspension settings >>>

Perfect.
I agree on the Ripsaw also. Too much side bite for the loose feeling a lot of people (including myself) enjoy. I see now they're promoting the Cobra as having the same or better traction, with less side bite. Beautiful! Can't wait to try one.

Transfer can be handled a couple of ways too. The limiter is the first one everyone goes for, but it costs suspension travel, so that's a last resort for me. The front skid spring can make a bunch of difference with transfer. The stiffer it is, the more well defined the pivot point for the rocking horse thing to get going on. Take that stiffness away, and the rocking horse has nothing to rock on.... If that has been done, and you're still getting light in the front going through/coming out of the corner, THEN get out the limiter strap trick.

My summary:
Set the torsion springs to teach the sled how to handle your weight - and don't change them for anything else.
For a starting reference point, both the ski and front skid springs can both be set with no preload. Start there, mess with it all you like, and if you get lost with what you are doing, come back to those settings and start over (or just leave them there. You can do a lot worse).
For trail - set the transfer blocks back out of the way. Tighten up the clearance on the rear one as necessary to control bottoming/coupling. This will allow the use of the most suspension travel as often as possible. FWIW

After chasing this for two years, the best solution I have found seems to be decreasing IFS spring preload, increasing center skid spring preload, front coupling blocks should be in the low setting (most gap). The rear torsion springs should be set to achieve normal 2-3 inches sit-in. The rear coupling blocks effect ski pressure when accelerating and can be adjusted to your liking.

What this set up does is creates a teeter-totter effect. The skis plant hard as the sleds weight rolls forward over the center skid spring, causing the tail end to get lighter for easy over-steering into a corner.
Warning - don't over due the center spring preload increase or it becomes unstable under hard braking and wears the front of the hifaxs quickly. First, set the IFS spring preload to the lowest preload possible without loosing retainer pressure (skis off the ground). Then, increase the center spring preload a turn or two at a time over the OEM setting until you reach the desired balance and braking stability.

Thanks for the great info. So what I'm gathering here, is this. if I want the old feel of the XC, buy an XC. I have never really bottomed this sled out, so my next guess is try to pull the limiter strap in one notch. If anything, this sled rides to stiff for my likieng, even though everything is set as loose as I can get it. And yes, I no the stock seat is a brick. Thanks again for the great info! please keep suggestions comeing!!!

PM me, I am in Marion just off I-84 and have a Fusion 600 HO and have set several up.