What is the peak rpm for dragon 700 2007????

Is 8250 correct???


Thank's

8000-8100 max.

My sled felt better at 8000rpms rather than 8200.

they say 8250 but 8200-8300 is good closer to 8300 is the best.

8000 is peak. You'll lose 7hp by revving it to 8250 and almost 8hp revving it to 8300. The 700 doesn't have very good overrev potential. Those who overrev are some of the same who complain about poor fuel mileage and power.

Agreed 100% 8000 to 8100 is where you will get the best performance and gas mileage with the stock engine.
Polaris is out to lunch with their recommended 8250 rpm. On the snow 8100 shiftout will pull many lenghts over 8300 and gain abut 2 mi. per gallon. Proven two times over on 08 models.

Don't want to downplay anybody but under load and for fast-trail the 07 700 should rev to 8200 RPM max for full performance.

The hp curves I've seen show the the power falling way off over 8200rpm. IMO I would rather run around 8050-8100 just to make sure I don'tenter that area.

8250...its peak rpm and horespower curve is 8250..look at dyno charts and polaris charts..peak and max performance rpm is 8250

Peak torque 7800
Peak hp 8000

ok its nice to know that someone on here that doesnt own a dragon is tellin all us dragon owners and tuners that we dont know what our sleds rev...we do a lot of work on them and talk 2 a lot of the right people and someone who doesnt have one is telling us we are wrong

Anybody have a link or file they could attach that actually shows the power curve?

SLP web site. Look under the performance edition kit for the 700HO or you can ask them to fax you one.

Is that directed at my post? If so.........GFY.

Here you go, Doug. This is from DTR. While their dyno is a bit on the optimistic side, the power curve is virtually identical to two other 700's I've seen dyno'd. The fastest Dragon in my neck of the woods pulls 7900 off the line with a creep up to 8100.

AFG is one of the best tuners on HCS, he knows the Poo engines & sleds!!!
I would believe AFG before a Polaris engineer!

Dragon700x's post did not add any-thing!!!!!!!!!!!

However I think that the 700 Dragon engines HP varies a lot, some tested at 133 HP, 145 HP, a prototype test engine tested at 148 HP.

Many 700 Dragons run the strongest at 8000 rpm.
But some & my 700 Dragon was slower at 8000 rpm, much quicker on the trail & top speed at 8200 rpm.
Rich

That's true Rich. Production differences in timing and pipe size can effect peak power. There's also the issue of tachometer accuracy. The tach on my 660 reads 150-200 rpm low. 8000 rpm is actually 8200.

LOL...damn noobs!

It's great to see AFJ take it like a veteran and just let it go. Nice

Yup, like AFJ mentioned, 7900-8000 is best operating range. I'm pulling 7900, there is a noticable loss at 7800 and under and over 8100

i dont own a dragon but i do all the tuning on my buddies 07 and it like 8250 nothing less at 8150 it'll pull 103mph max no matter how long u hold it at 8250 it'll do 107-108 everytime...and this engine has excellent overrev capabilities.....this on likes to rev...not like the older big blocks

The dyno from DT research is taken from the PTO,it's not a track dyno(which would show less HP).Yes it's peak torque is arond 7800 RPM and top HP 8050 plus.

Now this sled isn't under load from the track,driver,resistance,....etc.Just under load mechanically on the pto.

Adding up all the restrictions and resistance(driver weight,chain,track,driveshaft,....etc...) you should always rev your sled 150 RPM over what the top HP and torque shows for fast trail.Being 8050 RPM plus 150 RPM equals 8200 RPM.

Thats just my experience from racing.

Also Polaris Race department says to rev the 07 700 to 8200 RPM for maximum performance.

This topic being here on Sunday night is kind of ironic. I was riding this weekend and I was pulling 7900 RPMs in 5-6 inches of very loose/powdery snow. I was wondering about RPMs because I have previously read 8250 are the best RPMs. I had a max speed of 95 but I attributed this to the soft snow on the lake. With that much snow on the lake I thought 95 was pretty good since my 04 F7 would max out at the same speed with this amount of snow cover. My sled is also 100% stock with updates. I am very curious to see what my Dragon will do in ideal conditions but I have not seen ideal conditions up here since I got my Dragon.

if u get 8250 on hard pack and drop to 7900 in the snow your secondary is too lose or spring might be weak

For drag racing I typically clutched for peak torque or just slightly more. For top speed on hard pack or ice I'd clutch for peak hp and use gearing to enhance speed. That's just me though.

AFJ - who the hell is that in your avitar?

Also, can someone tell us the relation between primary weights, primary springs, secondary springs, and helix.

so lets say from a dead stop I launch and my sled sits at 8100, then creeps to 8250.

How to make it slam to 7950, then creep to 8100? More weight, more primary spring, less secondary spring, combo thereof?

My dragon is down now. But when I get it back, I want to make sure I don't over rev.

I have always said this sled with stock pipe and can loses all power at 8200 rpms.

Im not an expert but I swapped in 10-66's in my 07. Haven't put to many miles on in current configuration mostly just this past weekend in some backyard drag races. To run the 66's I had to swap in an almond red primary spring cause it didnt like the extra weight on the bottom as it wouldnt pull it in loose snow. I also have swapped in a 38 tooth bottom gear cause where I do most of my riding it is all wide open farm land . Anyways I noticed my revs would come up to 8200 or so but this was due to a ton of track spin, but as soon as it would hook they would come down to 7950 or so .By the time I reached the end of the run about 700 feet or so it would be spinning about 8050 to 8100. On a side note a guy with an 08 7 dragon had super torquer drag and fly weights and even though they didnt show thier hand in that distance they were just starting to do what they are supposed to do. That is make sure that the secondary shifts out all the way and they do this by throwing 80 grams at it on top. They worked cause he marked his primary and in stock form the mark was still there almost 3/4 of an inch. Same day same conditions with the drag and flys and the mark was wiped in one pass. This will make for way more top end than the factory setup on regular trail conditions. I know with mine that unless your in perfect hardpack conditions it never shifts out all the way. Oh and you dont have to do any grinding on your primary like the older heel clicker's required as the new drag and fly's profile doesn' contact anywhere.

That's me.

No wonder why you spend so much time online!!!! Do you wear a helmet even when you're not riding?

I keed, I keed!!!!

I'm running 68 gram MTX weights in my sled as of this past weekend.

I made some test runs on the lake this weekend roughly 800-900 feet.

With completly stock set up.
8400 rpms
84-85 mph

With MTX 68 gram weights with 1 gram in the mid. 160/300 primary and 140/260 secondary, also 3 delrin washers in the secondary
8300 rpms
94 mph

With MTX 68 gram weights with 1 gram in the mid. 160/300 primary and 140/260 secondary, also 3 delrin washers in the secondary, + 2 grams in the tip
8150 rpms
96-97 mph

Going to pull out 2 of the delrins and go back to stock secondary spring and see what I get. This was only on roughly 800-900 feet. There was a lot more top end to come out of it with a longer pull but I ran out of room to shut down.

FWIW a direct swap between 10-64's (revving 8200) to 10-66's (pulling down toward 8000-8050) gained 2 sledlengths in around 800 feet. No spring change. If 8200 made better power or was more efficient over 8000 R's then the weight change technically should've been kind of a wash.

Had some good trail conditions to see how 64 gram 11 series weights work and with the stock Blk/Green (120/340) spring and stock 2ndary was turning 8300 to 8350. Did pull harder on the bottom and midrange but will pull up to 8300 to 8350 and stop pulling.

Change out a 2ndary from a 600 (66/44-.46 helix) and didn’t notice much difference and still turned 8300 to 8350. Put a 080 belt on and that lowered RPM’s to about 8250 to 8300 but still too high. Will be making a spring change to see if I can get the RPM’s down and still have a good pull on the bottom and mid-range.

Rule of thumb with the 700 and 900 was to go 2 grams lighter to maintain the same peek RPM’s as the 10 series weights don’t seem to apply with the small block. If you looking at getting some 11 series weights and undecided between 64 or 66 go with the 66 grams.

Maybe the rule goes the other way?? I am using the clutching setup that Axle Engineer suddested in an earlier post, except I am using 11-68's and I pull 8200 consistently.

Very happy, needless to say.

This season I started playing with primary weights and helixes. I really like the way the dragon felt on the low end with the really heavy weights. I tried 68mtx with 3 gram in the tip plus 3 gram in the middle. This gave me the best holeshot with a 66 helix, but it hit a wall at about 50. I really would like to try the heel clickers once I get my sled back, but I am afraid to pay $220 for something that nobody with a slow dragon has tried yet. Fast dragon I can see, but I think you understand my worries.

Anybody else try the heel clickers on this 07 700 motor yet?

or the 08 700?

Nice to see discussions about the 700 again. I'm noticing again that those who seem to have the strongest running sleds are the Canadians among us.

Im hoping this is true.

As long as it runs to 105 or so and strong I will be happy!

rumore has it that there is a reflash comming for 07-08 700's very soon. we'll see if it does any good

Just some general stuff I discovered through trial and error that made a difference you could feel. That a beginning rate of 140 on the primary gives better pullaway then 120. The finish helix angle of 44° pulls harder then the 42°, but I cannot comment on a top end difference between the two. Notice more of a difference/better in pull between the 10-68"s & the 10-66's vs the 10-64's & the 10-66's. The use of large angle helix with stiffer springs rates, pull harder then shallow angles with softer spring rates.


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J-P-I,

You were asking me about the red/pink (140-260) secondary spring. Did you ever try this with a steeper helix, something like a 70-44?

What have you experimented with on the steeper helix and stiffer spring issue?

I've always thought about going to the lower gearing 1.71 ratio with steeper and stiffer.

Anyone?????

Yep. My motor, pipe, and ecu are not stock, but the best set up so far using a 70-48-44(420720) was a black/silver(160-280), 10-68's with a 140-?. The problem was not being able to pull more then 8000rpm. This set up pulled the hardest of any I tried. The 10-68's made a huge difference over the 10-66's with this secondary set up. Also, I tried the 66-44 with evey thing else the same, ran 8100-8150rpm, but just didn't pull like the 70-48-44. Therefore, my goal is to find a secondary secondary set up to go along with the 68's, if I can, this season. The plan is to try and use the same helix with some other springs. If that doesn't work then my next idea is to try a 70-44. Actually thinking of trying a 1.83 ratio(1¾" track) to see if I gain or lose anything... I would still like to see 100mph on the gps. This is why for a stocker I thought the 66-44 with 66 bellybusters with a red/pink spring may have some merit, as well as, someone elses suggestion of using a 54-44F which I may try also.

Whats done to your motor, pipe and ecu?