BMP Stealth Single pipe, BMP Y-pipe, Timbersled Air Intake system, BMP 2.5 Deg. Timing key, BMP Billet Head Kit, BMP stage 2 Clutch kit, and Boondocker Box. Ill post some pics of the exterior of my sled when i get it finished...Just ordered a Sno-stuff Lexan Molded Hood that i need to put on, and a clear gas tank, and some billet accessories.

tell me how that works out...i got a 03 and i want to do some mods

I hope your running an EGT or that's not going to last long...and run high octane fuel for that timing key.

I dont have an EGT on my pipe but I was told from bikeman that all i have to do is adjust my boondocker to a -4 Setting at 7800 RPM's and thats all i need to do. I run 93 octane gas in the sled.

Where are you getting the 93 from???

The -4 setting at 7800 means doesn't make sense. You must adjust your fuel across your entire rpm band. With out EGT's it will make it tough. Take our advice we both run modded sleds and to just plug in the Boondocker and adjust one rpm area is asking for trouble and throwing your cash out the window!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well i have talked to 2 techs at bikeman and they told me that i dont have to do anything besides set the boondockers at a -4 at 7800 because the F7's dump fuel at 7800RPM's and that is the only thing that i would have to change with these mods. I run 90 octane off the pump and use Klotz octane boost to get it to 93 octane

Sorry I missed the '05....I seen your '03 in signature.

The '05 does run more fuel then the 03's. I don't want to make a debate out of this just some great advice. I went to D&D in NY and had a motor built and Boondocker dyno tuned. Long story short is it did not run like it did on the dyno when installed and run here in Ak. I played with the numbers across in all ranges using EGT's to bring me in close and checking plugs and psiton wash got me closer. The numbers originally given to me from D&D don't/won't work in Alaska. Our latitude is just like gaining altitude and our humidity levels are way diffirent then the lower 48, especially winter time and both have an enormous effect on tuning. I worked an '06 Xfire with the Bikeman kit and with some fine tuning it runs like a scalded cat but straight out of the box it ran flat and a little lean mid range/top.

The octane boost increases your fuel octane level by 10 numbers that equals an increase of 1 whole point or 90 r/m2 to 91 r/m2. The nice thing is most of our fuel here in AK is quite a bit better then 90 r/m2 to start with....remember that is the minimum rating. Not to promote one product over another but take a look at this Octane Supreme and look at the chart for mixing quantity to raise the octane 3 whole points. Not the across the board generic dump the bottle in to get 101 octane stuff.

The only "octane boost" that I have found to work (and several tests if you search) is Torco. I have to run it in my car since the best you can get up here is 90. It's not actualy octane booster but race fuel consentrate. You could also try running Toluene, you can probably pick some up at home depot in the paint section. I'm not sure about the Kemco stuff, havn't really looked into it.

You hit it right on the head.........Toluene and/or lead is required. Octane Supreme is strictly for off road use only with non cat equipment. The Torco and Supreme do the same thing just with different chemicals. Both are consider racing fuel concentrates more then octane boosters.

Toluene can be a little hard on rubber after a while. Acetone is also an old racers trick that has come back in the spotlight as a mpg improver. I used to mix model airplane fuel (highly do not recommend, unless you have deep pockets for parts) with gasoline when we did hill climbs way back when>>>>>>>>>>>>I think I need to start a tread about old racers tricks somewhere....should be worth a thousand laughs of some things we did before and maybe bring something out that can/may still really work.....a new Mythbusters show looms on the horizon.