Just curious to know how other 700s/b are running.Mine runs at 8150peak rpm.My brothers 07 600s/b can consistantly pull me in all conditions by 2-4 lengths.Please tell me this isn't right.Both sleds are new with around 200 miles on them.Stock all round.Any one tried any clutching or gearing?Please help.

Put more miles on it first. Add the delrin washers to the secondary clutch. Try swapping secondary clutches.

We did switch clutches.The 07 has the multi angle as opposed to the straight 42.I,t helped me a little bit.Basically made our sleds even.Delrins I have ,haven't had a chance to install them.

A friend of mine that works at a poo dealer went away for x-mas an left his 2008 Switchback demo with me, It only had 140 miles on it the first time i rode it an it seemed to have some good midrange power.After my last ride with it i've now got 302 miles on it an during that last ride i lined up with a 08'xp 600 sdi an he got out about four lengths ahead of me an dammit i could'nt reel him in. Him an I are probly pretty close in weight an i had a 2007 Blizzard 600 sdi last year so i know those are really good engines but it still surprized me. I dunno if the warmer weather had something to do with it but it was around -15 Celsius, i thought that the CFI would adjust for the mild temps just like my old SDi did?????? Anyway the most i could get outta that sled was 88 87 miles an hour, I thought it was sad looking at that 600 just ahead of me an watching my speedo go from 88 back to 87 back to 88 wtf man. Then a few hours later when the temp droped an i was on my way home on the trail the sled really seemed to wake up an i had good midrange an it really seemed to fly. Anyway Im not here to bash these sleds cause i really do like it. I am wondering if guys are noticing a big difference in there 08 700's be it a switcher or any other 08' polaris 7 after the suposed 300 mile breakin period?

I would put the delrin washers in, and a 64/42-.46 helix. Then run it hard for break in.

Just finished a 400 mile run with my 08 switchback,i have 700 miles on it so far.Ran pretty hard with some cats,f8 and 2 f10's and my sons prox 800.Oil consumption is well setup and fuel mileage seems at par with the Cats.Lined up against both F10's i was very impressed how my sled ran,from a standing start or a rolling start the Switch is side by side,but once past midrange those big Cats reeled me in at about the same pace that my sons 800 pro x passes me.

The Pro x 800 was very close to the cats!

What i don't like,need some help with setup,seems to push to much in the corners for my liking.Studded down the center but only have the factory 4" of carbide up front.We rode about 15 miles of road to avoid the lakes and i have 0 front end bite,tried to tighten up front srings still no noticeble difference.
Any suggestoins?

I will try the washers and check the stock helix,yes the break in was good and hard,and it seems better know.

My 700 Switch still won't outrun my wife's Shift ,this thing is strong for a 600 seems right on out of the box.

Very pleased with sled even if i can't beat anybody so far! in the trail corner to corner speed this thing rocks the rougher it gets the better it rides!

Recommendation to anyone with a "slow" 700:

Pull your airbox, grab a handheld mirror, and peer straight down the throttle body throats with the go-lever pressed to the bars. On mine the butterflies were not flattened out...they simply didn't open all the way. So WOT at the bars translated to about 90% to 95% of full throttle at the engine. This might be a VERY simple answer for those who think their sled is slower than it should be...but I don't know that for certain.

I do know that self-done cable adjustments now allow mine to open fully. Be aware that some of these cable adjustments may also effect oil pump adjustments, as well as TPS/idle position sensor, etc. So watch carefully what you're doing if you try to do this yourself. It's not hard, but it is a bit sensitive and finicky, and access can be a little challenging.

I also admit to not having any long high speed runs or races under my belt yet, so I still have no idea how fast my sled really is...or isn't. But I gotta say it "felt" spunkier after this adjustment. I also HATE it when people say that any modification or repair is quantified by how something now "feels," so I put very little stock in such claims even when they come from my own mouth...

I simply have no way to quantify if I actually fixed a problem as I didn't do any before/after runs at top speed...but my observation on WOT not actually being WOT certainly leads me to believe that I may have opened up a bit of performance. Performance that may have otherwise been left hidden forever. After adjustment I have seen 91 mph on a 1/2 mile run on loose/unpacked snow with a 1.5 inch Intense fully clipped paddle track (far from ideal for high speeds). I ran out of room...so it may have done better if I kept it pinned. This number didn't disappoint me given the conditions and setup, so I THINK it's reasonably fast. I'm otherwise stock clutching/gearing and still have less than 100 miles on the sled.

Will be taking my first good long trip next week which will answer a lot of questions. Will be better able to report my sled's performance and top speed after that trip with some groomed railroad grade trail and lake runs.

just got home from the u.p. put on 550 miles on my 08 700 switchback[list=1]
[*]ride =9
[*]handling=7 lots of push ,has no ski pressure, ill try playing with limiter straps,i'am sure 1.5 track has something to do with it
[*]power=8
[*]clutching=4, friends 07 136 tracked dragon 700 not re flashed, pulls mine all the time by 2-3 sled lengths. swapped sleds same results
[list]
[*]fuel mileage horrible 9mpg max
clutching can be fixed,fuel mileage can't. we need to see if we can get some help from Polaris, maybe a re flash is in order. i understand E.P.A but leaner means cleaner

first ride coming up this weekend, we'll see. I'm not going to do anything but ride it this weekend then .....
I'll be back here, looking for answers. Won't be a fast weekend anyhow, ridding w/my younger son. good brake in weekend.
be nice if these things where totally prepped out of the box.

08 700 Switchback
600 miles. Rear suspension is awesome. Stock set-up pushed in the corners pretty bad. Lightened the spring force on the front shock in the rear suspension and tightened up the front springs to within an inch of max. Now it rails pretty decent. The faster the better.

Engine. Starts great hot or cold but it's a gas eating dog. 600 SDI Ski-Doo pulls it 2 to 4 sled lengths in 1000 feet. The SDI was getting 17-18 MPG and I was getting 9-10 MPG. The Doo600 walks right past it in the mid range and then they start to even out, but can't be caught unless your racing for a mile.

Typical max RPM 8250 all temperature conditions.
Max speed on the speedo was typically around 95MPH

The engine has a strange flutter/bog in the 5000-6000 RPM range. I found myself wacking the flipper to clear it out.

The sled loves deep snow. 2-3 feet of powder no problem.

Overall I give the chassis a 9+ and the engine a 6.

You think polaris would have this engine (the 700) running awesome by now???? WTF. How can they build this engine for so long an in so many ways an it still can't blow the doors off of a ski-doo 600?
My dad is a die hard poo man an has a 02 an a 04 both XC 700's an i really want to like the 2008 700 switchback that i've ridden lately an i do but would i buy one after being beat by a 600 sdi? I don't think i could. Come on polaris i really want to like you but........

Try a set of 11-66 weights. In the 700 I put them in, it loaded the engine more at part throttle, and the hesitation went away. Also install the delrin washers in the secondary.

So would you say that the somewhat lack of performance in the polaris 700's is in the factory clutch setup?

Thanks for the suggestion Pockets.
Where do I get the delrin washers?
I was also going to install 23/39 gears, what do you think? 22/40 seems too low.
John

Is there some type of trick to getting this airbox off and back on? Looks like a nightmare.

Burnt more oil than a diesel in 600 miles. My plugs are caked with oil residue. Looks like I'm overdue for fouling problems.

Pockets, what helix with the 11-66's?

First 60 miles 08 sb 700.....

Ran great....burned less tan 3/4 tank of fuel, Half the Res of oil......Super excited about that.....
Pushed hard in corners(expected that) will adjust
Supention rocks...and the sled is pretty easy to throw around for someone 5'9 165lbs

I really like this thing and was impressed with the ride, but i'm not passing judgment on the motor untill i get it broke in and it's not using 1+qts to a half a tank of fuel filled with premix....

Anyone noticed any changes once they got em' broke in...
Has anyone has sucesse getting the dealer to make Oil pump changes

To remove the air box remove one screw clamping fuel line to LH side of air box, remove filter from clips, undo rubber strap and then there are 2 plastic clips just above the throttle bodies that hold the air box in place. They are a little hard to get at but just pull them forward and the air box lifts straight up.

23/39 should be ok. The older 700 ves ran that gearing, with a longer track, and even though you are running higher rpm, you have more hp. I used the 11-66 with the stock black/green primary, 56/42-.36, and 155/222 spring. This is on an 07 Dragon RMK.

OK i have 820 miles on my 700 08 Switchback,i'm lucky my oil adjustment is very good ran 450 miles before warning light came on,fuel mileage is acceptable pleased with it.no issues so far .Runs hard bottom end up through midrange,labours a little after 90 mph, but remember your turning a 136 and not a 121.
Those of you looking for top end speed,may have bought the wrong sled maybe a 700 iq 121 will give you more top end,remember this is a on off trail sled. I was out this evening doing some off trail with my son,the Switchback is unbelieveable in deep snow compared to a 121.It does most things very well a lake racer it's not ,my fastest speed thus far was 101 mph on a plowed road.

I would suggest you put some miles on your sleds before making changes,then you can better judge what you wantto accomplish.

Good luck guys!i will take pockets advice and add the delrin washers and maybe clutching once i hear more feedback.

Those of you with heavy oil consumption should contact the dealer,mine was set up right upon delivery and yes fuel mileage will improve ,Make sure to run track a little loose.

I have 900 miles on mine and am happy with performance on trails and in deep snow. I managed 104 mph on a groomed trail. My oil usage was very high 28:1 and mileage not great about 10 mpg Canadian on groomed trails. What ratio is yours running and what kind of mileage?

Sorry can't give you the oil ratio,all i know is it's light on oil,runs clean ,no fouled plugs. Like my earliar post the low oil indicator light started to flicker at 450 miles,avereage about 12 to 13 mpg.
Conditions are still soft in our area, once we get good hardpack i think fuel mileage and top end runs will increase.

So far happy with this sled!

Thanks, I'll try that again.

You don't have to loosen the hose clamps that hold the rubber boots from the airbox to the throttle bodies?

John

No. The airbox is in two pieces...the lower part with the hose clamps is the second piece. That piece comes off as step #2, and the hose clamps are very easy to access if you first get the big airbox out of the way...that lower piece has sort of a receiving "slot" for the big upper box to slide and snap into. Actually the big box comes on and off REAL easy after you get the hoses disconnected from the side. I just rock mine forward and pull up and it snaps right out.

Make sure when you put it back on that it snaps all the way down in place. This is critical. If you don't get it seated fully and properly you will have massive air leaks and possible lean burndown damage to the engine.

Ordered the SLP Delrin washers. I'll be testing Saturday. One at a time I'm going to try the Delrin washers, 11-66 weights and 23/39 gears.
I've got that damn ski-don't coming over to haunt me. Hopefully these changes will help.

Thanks for the great description. I'll take that apart tonight. I should have looked closer.

Hey guys,just spoke to my dealer directly to the mechanic,i asked him about oil consumption issues .He told me the dealer should check and set the oil pump adjustment at the time of PDI.

i was suprised to hear some of your sleds being so hard on oil,mine was setup and adjusted at time of delivery.

Hope this helps,it sucks to go back to dealer to have this set when it should have been already done.Running that rich mixture would also make it harder on fuel i would think and foul plugs.

The mechanic also mentionned it's a bit of a pain to do,access is difficult and takes about an hour to properly set up.

my buddy bought an iq 700 from another dealer,his sled drinks VES GOLD ,and fouled 4 plugs in less than 200 miles .Back to dealer.!!!

Let us know if the washers make a difference!

Checked my throttle bodies today.They open up all the way so thats not an issue on my sled.I installed the three delrin washers in my secondary so I'll see how my sled works this week-end.I'll be riding with two 600's so hopefully i can keep up.(man that sounds bad)Should get close to 500 miles on it by the end of the week end.

Thanks for the airbox help. Your right, quite simple once you find those locking tabs with a mirror.

Checked my oil pump setting last night. My oil pump lever was sticking at about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle and wouldn't return. I thought maybe the engine vibration would snap it back. Started the engine and ran it on a lift watching the oil lever with a mirror. It would return fully about half the time.
Also the lever isn't in sync with the throttle bodies. The oil pump lever moves about 3/16 of an inch before the throttle bodies start to move. Those two issues probably explain why I'm using so much oil. After 600 miles my plugs were caked with semi-burnt oil residue.

Care to go for the trifecta? Did you check to see whether your butterflies open fully at WOT while you had your mirror in hand? If the answer is yes, then congratulations! You must have bought an 08 700 Switchback Dragon with throttle cable system that was assembled by the same dude that assembled mine!

I'm sure some are sick of me saying this, but if you didn't happen to notice in some of my other posts in the IQ forum, I'll inform you here that I had both of the above problems (exactly). PLUS as I mentioned eariler in this thread, my throttle butterflies would only open to about 90 to 95% when lever was put to the bars. I had the perfect built-in restrictor-plate racing setup straight from the factory!

A series of throttle cable adjustments make this a reasonably easy fix, except for the sticking pump arm. Mine doesn't stick too bad...but sometimes. From others, it sounds like the easy hack fix for that problem is to add another, or stronger, return spring to help pull the arm back to idle position. I haven't done this yet as I'm never too excited about adding to throttle pull force (hate the sore thumb thing after a 250 mile day), but I will monitor the situation to see if the sticking is really an issue for me or not.

I did check the butterflies per your earlier post and mine opened fully. Thanks for the heads-up. I'm surprised I missed your sticking oil pump arm. That should have caught my eye. Mine seems free now. I wonder how free it will be at minus 10 degrees. I should look at the bright side, too much oil is better than too little oil out on the trail.

Often when the storage oil is sprayed underhood at the factory, it will gum up the arm. Spray degreaser on the arm and spring, moving it as you do. Once it is clean, it usually cures the issue. The pump should move before the butterflies open. But when the slack is taken out, there should be the alignment marks in line. If the arm sticks 1/3 open, you do not need that much extra oil, it is a waste.

I'll try that the next time I'm tinkering. My alignment marks are pretty close to perfectly lined up at rest. I was surprised.
I was only kidding about the sticking arm being a good thing.
How come nobody around here has 11/66 weights? They only carry 10/66.

My 600 had the same problem, it was running like crap. I pulled the airbox out, re-adjusted the throttle cable so the oil pump opened at the same time, and noticed it was sticking as well. Sprayed a bunch of cable lube on the top of the oil pump arm & return spring. That did it, runs like it used to now, back to happy I am.

My oil pump sticks as well when you check it with engine off. If I leave it in the stuck position and start engine it seems to return to the proper position every time. My pump would move about 3/16 inch before the throttle plates started to move, with factory setup. I adjusted it so the marks line up just as the throttle bodies start to move and I ended with a ratio right around 50:1.

Stock weights, couldn't find 11/66 yet.
23 / 39 gearing
Delrin washer
Properly adjusted oil pump.


5000 RPM range flutter is gone.
On hardpack it pulls 93 to 95 on the speedo pretty quick and then fights it's way to 98 ish.
It's no powerhouse but it'll now stay with the 600 SDI Doo. I get the holeshot 8 out of 10 times and the Doo can't make up the difference. If he get's the holeshot I can't make up the difference.
Both of my daughters have 600 XCSP's that run real hard. I can't touch either one. 2 sled lengths behind them in a 1000 feet.

Happy for now. Oil consumption seems to be in order. I'll do the math on the mileage and oil consumption on the next big trip.

You need 3 delrin washers.

I ordered 6 and they sent me 2. I put the 2 in for now.
Thanks

One under the spring cup, one on each end of the spring. The one under the cup is the most important.