how do you clean the exhaust vavles properly... i have heard hundreds of methods but im looking for a professional opinion, someone who possibly does this for a living? its an 05 600xcsp

pics would be greatly apreciated aswell
Thanks in advance

I am not a professional but I do it often enough. I soak mine in carb cleaner to loosen the carbon build up and lightly scrape with a razor blade and a scotch brite pad. Soak and scrape over and over. You won't get them shiney new this way but you don't need to either. I clean mine every 500 miles and this takes about 15 minutes each. Mine are still coming out with dry carbon on them so I am adjusting my oil pump higher a little bit every time until the carbon decreases and I get just a sticky oil on there. Right now I have the carbon down to a thin layer. the way Polaris had the pump set I would of had the power valves stuck in the cylinder if I followed there 1000 mile cleaning.

I use a fresh razor blade at a slight angle so it doesn't scratch the valve. Then spray them with carb or brake clean, wipe dry and reinstall them with a light coat of 2cycle oil.

citrisolve (spelling??) it is an orange based and smelling citris solvent. let the valves soak in it to loosen up the deposits. do not get the solvent on the plastic parts or the diaphrams. for really sticky deposits, use a brass wire brush. finish cleaning with hosing of startling fluid before assembly. FYI, any scratches you put on the valves become great anchor points for future deposits.

edit, forgot to mention something. i use Amsoil in all my sleds. it does not foul the EVs like other brands of oil. very clean burning, i pulled my XCR 800 vavles after 1600 miles and they did not need cleaning. just a suggestion, but some don't like Amsoil, i've love it, just food for thought.

You have had good luck with Amsoil. A buddy switched to Amsoil Interceptor in his Viper. It was a little cleaner but still can't get over 1000 miles without them getting close to sticking. I run a synthetic (not Polaris Ves Oil) in my 700 RMK also which guys say is better for the valves but I believe that I need to get more oil into the cylinder which will lube the valve more and keep it cleaner. A sticky oil on the valve to me is cleaner that a burnt carbon. At 1600 miles were yours covered in a sticky oil like syrup. Another friend on mine feeds his oil tank what ever is on sale but his pump is putting out lots also and his valves are never stuck.

i run the Amsoil HP (blue stuff) and never had a problem. my valves had a little carbon, more like ash than anything. i also run my jetting very close to being to lean. this may help in not creating deposits, but i'm not really sure. i tried running the VES synthetic and a couple other types of oil over the years, but nothing has worked as well as the Amsoil for me.

should i clean the vavles with the bellows and everything attached of should i remove the bellows, if i am supesed to remove the bellows cansome one tell me the proper way...

and when reinstalling the valves to the motor how tight do i put them in at? torque?

Thanks

I disassemble and clean the whole assembly once a year. First, remove the valves from the engine, and the 2 bolts that hold the plastic cover on to the assembly. Inside the cover will be a spring and the bellows, valve, etc... You will need to removed the small aluminum cap to remove the bellows and other parts. I hold the valve "blade" loosely in a vise with a rag wrapped around it, then gently loosen the aluminum cap with a set of ChanneLock pliers and another rag wrapped around the cap (the little hex head snaps off VERY easy if you decide to use a wrench on that - learned that the hard way). Take everything apart (keeping a good mental note or sketch of how everything came apart) and clean all of the metal parts with carb cleaner and a rag (clean the actual valves using any of the techniques posted earlier). Clean the bellows and plastic parts with hot soapy water only, then rinse them off. Reassemble everything, putting a small amount of injection oil around the base of the bellows. I also like to add a drop of blue thread locker to the aluminum cap, then just snug it up. Replace the cap (again with a little blue thread locker on the bolt threads), and your done. One way to test if your bellows are still good is, after reassembly, compress the valve by pushing it down on a piece of wood or something else soft, and hold your finger over the hole in the center of the plastic cap. Keep your finger over the hole and let pressure off the valve; it should stay compressed until you remove your finger. Clean out the cylinder ports (including the tiny round transfer port), reinstall the valves (with new gaskets if necessary - I coat mine with a light coat of anti-sieze before installing), and you're done. I'm not sure of the torque, but I also use a little blue thread locker on these bolts too.

JWILL's method works, especially if you like working standing up at a vise. i use a little different method. i like taking the plastic covers completely off when the valve is still on the sled. the cylinder is a great holder for the valves when you go to remove the retaining nut. as stated, make sure you put everything back the same way you pull it apart. everything is pretty self explanatory, the only two things that will hose you are the support washer and bellows. they can be installed upside down, so pay close attention to them. after removing the valve and block, clean as stated. make sure the passage holes in the valve block are clean and well as the passage into the cylinder. when cleaning the cylinder feed hole, make sure the piston is down at the bottom of the stroke, this will keep you from scratching the piston skirt and any debris can be easily vacuumed out the exhaust port. i can't remember the torque specs, but they are not much, like 8-11 ft/lbs.

That's good to know about the oil. Right now I am running Shell full synthetic, but I am still working on the jetting. Right now I am at 450 mains with a Tempa Flow , gutted air box and SLP pipe and can. I see guys are running 420's, 430's at sea Level but I don't know if I am willing to go that far. I ran 450's all last year without the other stuff and it was still a little rich. Maybe if I can still work down one more jet then my valves will be a little cleaner.

Sorry for jumping around on your Post Bantam.

450's are way rick on a 700. use piston wash to tune your jetting. plug color is for short term to get in the ballpark. the twins have a funny way of showing good plug color even when really rich. most guys i know with 700's are running 420's or 410's depending on elevation. i ran 430's in my Pro-x 800 at sealevel and 0*F with gutted airbox and SLP intake kit, SLP single pipe, etc,etc. fat jetting will really foul your EVs, this i know for sure.

My elevation is at 1700 ft but the temp drops to -30c sometimes when we are out.

ok well my dad told me i had to do his old sled because im racing it on asphalt next summer... is it the same process for an 02 800, and will i need to get the titanium valves?

clicky - clicky

same proceedure for all exhaust valves. just for your info, the titanium valves are no longer available. you are stuck using the stainless valves on the 800. i use the pink RMK 800 exhaust springs for the stainless vavles as well.