hey all i need a hand getting the beast to hook i don't get enough weight transfer.it doesnt matter if i roll out 50 or 60 feet and punch it the old girl just spins and digs a trench on snow or just spins and bury's the needle on ice. i only weigh 145 lbs wich maybe is part of the problem but not all of it. i have over 200 woodys and still no bite it all just blows out the back regardless if i'm on ice or packed snow.i run the rear springs as soft as i can and i run the front shock as soft as i can without bottoming out on the trail(should i tighten this right up) the other thing i'm wondering is if my clutching is coming on too hard off the line i'm engageing at 3000 and it jumps to 83, 8400 right of the line and holds it steady should i be letting it build up slowly to my peak rpm? if im on ice from a dead stop and i punch it it spins for 200 feet or more

I would set the front shock on the rear suspension to show around 4 threads under the adjusting nut or ring. You can try abit more since you only are 145# as this will affect the hold so to speak once the back rolls over the pholcrum point. You said the springs on the rear are on the softest position which is good. I would then leave 4-5 threads showing on both the front shocks. If you ride trails hard then this set up will likely bottom but that's the best it gets. The track has over 200 pics which will limit your bite. I know some will argue this but think of it this way in the magic show the guy lays on a bed of nails and never gets pierced, but lets see him lay on say 10 or 15 nails and see what happens. Get the general idea? D&D told me years ago that too many studs are no good. You can't get the pics to penetrate because others are holding them up. I run 192 stud boy 1.187 studs on my 2000 t-cat and it bites great with this 1" track set up. That's approx. 9/16" stick out. I also run the power tower nut so I don't bend studs. Hope this helps.