Ok your typical 2001 built Tcat D&D pipes trail ported V forse, power breather Runs great right to 8800 probley right at 200 hp right now im running 24-39 we run all trail on medium to hard pack lots of Up michigan riding lots of high speed racing from a 60 roll up to as fast as we can, it seems like it tops out a little quick at like 115 ish on snow Im think a switch to a 25-38 will help but dont want to loose accerlation we do lots of dead stop trail drag racing also, my only verriable is i run a 1 1/4 rip saw most t cat guys run a 1 inch. Any experene with a simular combo Thanks in advance Chris

24/39 at 8800 will give your 127-128 at full shift out, try gearing down to 23 aand see if you go 117 or 118. might be a track thing?!

I run a 1 1/4 Ripsaw myself . And I must say that it really doesn't turn around easy. It seems to rob a lot of hp's just as it is. It's a great track on trail both acceleration and stoping grip. But I must advice you to go with something else if you want to have more speed on top. Otherwise I think you will chase a "ghost" with all kinds of different combos both in gearing and clutching before you end up changing it anyway. With an aggressive clutching setup and from a dead stop it will give you lots of grip and leave many sleds a parking ticket. But for speed, I would change track!

Just a couple of sentences!

I run a 99 1108 with cpr pipes, reeds. I think I am at 225 hp. I spent all last year dialing in and my mistake was 25-38 gears. I could not get the sled to go above 116.
I tried every clutching trick I knew. I was running at 8700 but now have found out that I need to be at 8900. Still when you mod a motor you move the peak powerband so you need to gear and clutch accordingly. I bought the clutch books this summer and studied them. My situation was not achieving full shift out. Every tooth change on the top is like 4 tooth changes on the bottom. So a 25/38 is actually not 2 teeth but 5! I have put my stock gears back in and will clutch to the higher needed rpm's. Most important fact is to determine if you are getting full shift-out in the length that you are clutching for. WE like to lake race up in the Hayward area, but never over 1500 feet. Some of the Canada guys go much longer that that. In your case I would drop one tooth in the top, clutch it correctly and see what happenes. If you are getting full shift out then change the gears.!

yes I know and agree the rip saw will kill a little top end, but it seems like its not quite there yet

I think thats were its at Im not shifting the front clutch all the way out im going to try to go to 64 gram weights from 62 today

What is your current clutch set up? If you put 64 gram weights in it you will drop the rpms throughout the shift. The secondary could also be holding back your shift. I had my clutches apart last week and cleaned them and reinstalled them with no springs. I wanted to make sure that I could shift both clutches to their fulll shift out without any hang-ups. Try to do this. It is easy, and revealing. Also are you using the right belt. Make sure that the belt sits a bit out of the secondary. Check the center to center distance as well.
All rpm tuning must be done in the primary. A perfect set up will allow you to nail it and hit your peak rpms right away and hold them steady through out the entire shift out pattern. There are several gearing calculators around, but they do not take into effect clutching and load sensing.
Need to know what your clutch set up is!

well in the front I have a 62 gram weights with a d &d orenge 170-305, in the back a cutler red with white stripe and a 60-40 helix with a micro bellmont roller cover- (its supposley shifts 2 degrees faster than the stock roller cover) . After my last post I installed a teal D&D front spring 170-280 and after marking the front shelves it definatly cleaned the mark up higher, and it keept the desired rpm up also and it seemed to pick up but I have nobody to run against to tell forsure.

This is a problem to many of us, I think? Getting a zero-machine to have as a reference isn't always that easy.

Looking at the marker at the sheaves isn't always that revealing either if you go from a dead stop. Softer spring, more of it get rubbed of, -at the start. Using your speedo as a reference combined with the marker going wot as you pass a marked spot (A) and then checking speed as you pass spot (B) will give you a more accurate read and easier to follow what did what as for speed, clutching and gearing. Remember to always pass spot A at the same speed and to keep a speed that not allow much track spin when you nail it. Letting go at B will also give you a fair chance to then check your marker to see if you should gear up or down. Or, as you at the same time has seen the rpm's, know if you should add weight or take off. Getting a fast sled takes time and sometimes quite a lot of fuel to rule out what works on your sled. -Ask anyone here who tunes!
But doing this simple check will first of all make you tune, by yourself, as your bud's are watching tv eating popcorn and bragging about their so fast sleds. While they gain weight (getting slower) you are getting much faster by the hour. Secondly you will as I said, by the hour, quickly rule out if the sled develops power and if the muscle hits the ground.

The optimal way would be to start with no spin clocking the sled. But who has that equipment in private possession? You fix the start later!

Do one adjustment at the time and write down what happened each run and you will in just one day have a considerable faster sled assuming you have the weights, gears, jets and stuff with you in the morning.

I hope I didn't give you a headache that will last through your whole Christmas celebration?

And by the way MERRY CHRISTMAS to all of you enthusiasts reading this forum, I hope you all get a good one!

i tried that 6040 throw it out, also polaris weights will NOT shift into overdrive on SNOW...only ice...tried 10 different times and ways.

i do believe that these tcat needs a purple cecondary spring for the side pressure as the lesser spring will spin the belt.
try a 60/48 some other 60gram weights, purple sec and a dd teal prim, bet you'd like it!

I di
I did try that combo 60 grams, 60-46 helix with purple secendary spring, How much do you weigh, and what track you running , Im 225 with the 1 1/4 track it will not hold rpm with that helix Im starting to think these 1 1/4 tracks make it hard to pull rpm on top, after today I feel im pretty dam close currently 62's with D&D teal - cutler red with white stripe in 4th hole with a 60- 40 helix, the teal spring seemed to help out. my clutches are not hot. I want to try some 60 grams weights to get it to snap faster to 8800 . the down side of taking weight away is that the sheves will not squuze the belt as hard, on another note I hear these Arctic cat tach s are off although im seeing 8800 maybe its only 8600

what i have found on a lot of setups is that your speed usually goes up as helix and angle and stiffness of secondary go down.

you might want to get into a lower 50 degree helix with a little softer spring on the secondary clutch, and then run your heavier weights.

contact cseracing.com he runs 130 mph in 1000' with his t cat and 120 mph with his stock t cat.

My personal opinion is that you have too stiff a setting in the secondary as well. I think the 60/40 is a great way to go in 1000 feet or less. I think it really puts too much belt squeeze/load on the secondary at the up shift, thus causing you to not get the overdrive. The 60 gram primary weights are too light, you will get lots of rpms though. The teal is a 185/295. You could try keep the 62 or 64 and use a spring with a stiffer finish. I think the 40 angle and the soft finsh spring rate is limiting your top end.

One thing that is really important starting to adjust is if you have jetted correctly?
I see that you look at the track as a cause of the sled loosing rpms at the end. It won't!
Rightly clutched you can pull another sled behind and still reach your peak power rpm. That's the fine part with the clutch system.
So either you have too heavy weights for your setup or you are over jetted.

Secondary spring tension. The side pressure of a given spring is mainly there to prevent the belt from slipping as said earlier. But even a stiff spring will have little to do with the upshift after the shift has passed half the helix. What happens after half the shift is mainly up to what degrees your helix is. Pulling full shift, add weight in your primary. In some TC applications over here we use over 70 grams in the primary. If the springs are stiff? -Yes!
Does the belts slip? -NO!
Each have their own setup. But a big cc sled with a lot of power can almost never use a soft spring in secondary. To prevent the belt to hit the secondary axle at start, with lots of grip, we add these stiffer springs. And then we live with it! To get proper rpms at takeoff we add a stiffer spring in the primary. Then we sum up all those forces and put in a weight heavy enough to rule the clutches...

i planed on putting the d and d purple back in the secendary just to see what it does it is very close but i know there is a little more, it may need more weight to force that purple spring to open the secendary all the way open maybe ill put the 60 46 back in to help it along

well today Im sure I made some head way. I removed the 24-39 gearing and installed a 23-40 with the 1 1/4 track and the tall stock gearing it just wouldnt shift the clutches up all the way. So currently this is it: 62's with d&d orenge 170-305 in the primary----- and d&d purple in the middle hole with a 60-40 in the secendary. it snaps right to 8700 out of the hole and the within 1 second it climbs and holds at 8900. in a set distance it definatly picked up 7-8 mph, I know many will say the 60-40 specifically the 40 part is not for top end I would love to use a 60-46,48 but it just will not pull the rpms and I definatly dont want to wind that tight d&d spring tighter or install 60 gram weights in the primary. On grass with barley a 1/2 inch of snow I had the spedo straight down and it was still climbing (ran out of room) so I think im there. Thanks all for the oponions seems the tall gearing was the problem go figure gear lower to go faster.

Well It is really nice you shared your testing info with us. I will try this gear lower to go faster this winter>

I'm glad you made great progress in your adjustments. The 40 degree ending is a good one for speed as the belt won't slip as easy with a big power sled. The setup is from sled to sled. Your combo may not work on another sled. The characteristics of the primary clutch's shift will determine if your secondary (40 degree) will be right for you. Going with a steeper helix will make you ease up in the primary shift to prevent an over-shift. And even if you do, the secondary will be more prone to slip.

Lots of factors on all our sleds.....how many of you have checked your bulkhead, to see if it's still riveted to your tunnel under the carbs? Can you see daylight??!!



I never had luck with the 60-40 helix....yet so many people recommended it.
In my case, I trail rode with perhaps my best fastest clutching. I always ended back up with a certain setup....tried them all. Tried them all doesn't mean it won't work in your sleds.

58 to 68 gram Polaris weights, all cut to fit the Cat clutches..
tons of springs....primary and secondary....PINK cutler is weirdest! squishy, but hard as fuk to twist!
64-42 to 62-36 and everything in between for helixes...
gearing..22-40 to 23, 24,25,26 to 40,39,38,37,35.....


and what do I end up with...
121mph on ice WITH Harmony on the back!! (124&126 without)
25-38
purple D&D secondary, 3rd hole
Teal D&D primary
10-64 weights
62-44 helix.

The same clutching has gone 136mph....I think any clutching will do that in 2500 feet!!

Im not much of a ice racer, all trail on hard pack Im sure my Big varieable is the 1 1/4 ripsaw, I run with a guy with a built zr 9 that runs real good and a Rx1 with all the goodies and a light weight rider, we all run from a 60 roll up to top end, and it goes either way who ever get the jump, I know I should walk away from them (or should I) they are tuners and they run good. Would a 1 inch Hacksaw suit my riding/racing style better, would I loose that traction in the snow right on the hit of the throttle? But maybe gain 5 mph on top

Id also like to know what track to use for hard-pack accel, but does not give up any topend. My 1" Challenger vibes pretty good and im sure I lose quite a bit up top

Amen... I actually run a 38 finish with less start and more weight. I stay away from most aftermarket springs too as too much finish tension can coil bind and cause other problems. If you run a real low finish watch the belt. Alot of squeeze going on. Clutches cold sled trucking out... little belt slip going on. We also run button clutches racing rollers for trail only. Rollers seem to back shift too easy when running WFO.