I am about convinced that I need to do something about my airbox pretty soon. My 900 fuse only has 90 miles on it, but from reading most every post on this sled every tends to lean on getting rid of the stock air box. I am really happy so for with my sled's overall performance top and bottom end speaking, but I am most woried of all the horror stories of ves clogging. I can have the slp airbox system bought and shipped to my door for 280.00 and some change, which is this a better investment right now?
thanks

because it's alot less money and a way simpler install, I'd recommend the helix first, plus it will make a more noticeable difference. That said, the SLP Airbox is one of the slickest pieces that I've ever seen and I'd also highly recommend it. I did them both when I had my '05.

I would do the shitty airbox as this frees up space and gets rid of under hood heat build up.You don't have to worry about sucking up belt dust.You can put your spare belt on the new belt holder as well.

get rid of tht airbox if u like performance already youll save enough for a helix by not blowing belts shoulda done it sooner on mine

The helix saves belts too ! Creates Less motor mount issues also unless your in the air alot.

Helix is $109 + $10 for delrin washers.

SLP Airbox is $290.00.

I'd like to add that you'd be very smart to get $150 - $200 worth of vents too.


All very important ! The sooner all of them done, the more fun and the cheaper it will be to ride your sled !

Well I ordered the slp airbox this morning so I should have it the middle of next week. Only other question is do I have to be a surgeon to put this thing on? I nearly had to take half my sled apart to put my can on it. Once I get the slp box and clutch cover on it, I will ride it for a little bit and then change out the helix. After all the damn thing only has 90 miles on it.... My only observation to you guys about this sled is it seems like I have to do tons of mods to make this thing right, I miss the days of indys and xc's when everything worked the way it was supposed to up until 4000miles.

On my 06 900 Fuse I used 02 Sport Touring belly pan vents. I installed the vents with the holes facing towards the back of the sled. As you are riding it sucks the air out. (low pressure as wind goes by). Installed the vents in the removable side panels. Hope this helps.

Is it really the underhood heat blowing the belts or is it the fact that the stock clutching/mounts were the issues?? I have heard that vents etc were just a band aid to the real problem which was the stock clutching that the secondary would try to downshift while the primary was trying to upshift, alignment issues, causing lots of friction and heat on the belt? Has anyone just left the sled stock and run the 719 helix proper springs and had their belt isssues go away?the only reason I ask is that on my polaris sportsman atv the drive belt was totally enclosed in a plastic case(keep water out) and we used to ride in 80-90 degree hot summer days going thru mud, 4whl drive, etc, and never had belt issues, and I know that belt compartment was super hot in there. Im curious

The Sportsman only has about 40 hp. Much lower gearing and engine rpm.

I rode this thing bone stock for the first 80 miles and never had a problem with it, the only reason I put a can on it was because I wanted the drop in weight and the little extra hp. And I studded it for more traction. Then I was reading all the horror stories of people owning this sled and decided I better do some preventative steps so I dont have these problems. My engine temps are all in spec and my belt wear is fine along with my oil consumption. I run amsoil intersceptor and normal octane gas. Everything seems good. I realised by looking at that giant airbox it could present some of the issues everyone has. Plus my mechanic at the time told me it would be wise to change the box out with a timbersleds or slp for better performance. So I guess I am just looking for some direction on these issues. I am going on a long trip in feburary and dont want to encounter all of the issues people are having. As write this I am thinking to myself I have a brand new sled why should I have to worry about something happening?
thanks for the input

I too felt that way a couple times with my sled. Its brand new, why do I have to change clutch parts, put extra motor mounts in, etc, on a brand new sled. It was pi$$en me off. Then I remembered that I paid 5300 for a brand new 900CC sled with a 3 yr warranty. Then I feel better about it.

i would do the airbox and reeds.noticed the biggest improvement when i changed them.if you install v force youll have to cut the rubber boots interiors so they will fit the reeds.you also have to cut the tags off the v force for lack of clearance.check your oil pump for sticking and clean your exhaust valves frequently.the old girl is high maintanance but she ll be good to you!

Yeah I feel fortunate that I paid 4400 out the door for this thing brand new, but still it is brand new none the less. I will check some more stuff out tonight when I am in the garage. I am probably going to take the airbox off tonight so when the slp stuff gets here next week I can put it on. I am supposed to go on a one day trip next week but I think that where we take our one dayer lost most of the snow these last 2 days. So I might as well order the helix, washers and new carbides so I have something to do before I go back to work on the 7th.

keep watching your oil pump for sticking.if you go through alot of oil shes sticking on at idle.exhaust valves will be needing a cleaning then.while your down there clean that assembley for the oil pump.wont hurt

how would i know that the oil pump is sticking? oil consumption so far hasn't seemed out of control.seems pretty normal, but I will let you guys know after i get back next week, looks like gaylord area is supposed to get a replenishment of what they lost tommorow afternoon into monday. Know my only hope is that my stuff gets hereby wednesday so I can put it on for thurs

I think the helix would be the better first thing to do, It will create less belt destruction, less heat generated by the clutches, improved performance across the board, and belt's do not explode and take out the stock airbox if it is clutched correctly.

Poo defenitely screwed the pooch when they guessed at the clutching for the 900's

How difficult is it to put the helix on? I am assuming I have to pull the clutch and what not. By the way, that stock airbox is an abortion. I also noticed when I got to ride my sled for a a few test runs in the field that since I studded the track that it carries the front end until i let off the throttle. Any suspension set up ideas?

These type comments posted by a few a few people on this thread have just recently bought a 900 Fusion, so I will re-state what all of us Fusion owners have mentioned over the past few years.

For most 900 Fusions, there where issues. Because of these issues, many where not bought and they sat at dealerships. The longer and longer they sat, plus over time the Fusion rap sheet got so bad, the $$$$$ kept falling.

There is a reason why you bought a 10k + sled for $6900 (2yrs ago) to $5500 this year.

It needs a little work from the get go (thank this Forum and others for doing the years of R&D for you) and apparently a roll of the dice.

You bought a $10k+list sled for almost half the money for a reason !

Again, you know your rolling the dice by buying the sled and you know your greatly increase the chances of loving the sled if you follow the advice of other Fuse owners and advice from some gurus and/or professionals talking about set-up of these.

by no means am I complaining on getting a sled for less then half the original cost. That is not my intent. My intent is to do every mod that people have suggested on this board in a matter of importance first. It had all of the factory recall's done as of feb 07. I am now doing what everyone on the board has suggested. I am just baffeled that polaris would sell something that needed this much work on it to be a usable sled. For your info, when I bought this sled, I was told by my now defunct polaris dealership that with all the factory recalls that I had done to this sled before the purchase that it was corrected the way it should have been done at the time of its build. Now as I read all these pages and pages of posts that the original owners had to deal with and I go through the new checklist of to do's I still shake my head at what needs to be done. I am asssuming that when I take the stock airbox off that I will see the oil pump that causes so many problems. And when I bought this sled I wasn't rolling the dice again because I was told by my now lost mechanic and no longer dealership that this was ready to go and I was getting a hell of a deal.

You are correct on the stock air box abortion. The reason I would put it #1 in the list of things to do is because mine was ingesting belt dust by that POS rubber gasket that seals the top half to the bottom half, not good. For the sake of your engine get rid of it asap, the lower belt temps are just a pleasing side effect from ditching the box. As for the suspension, you can try the adjusting blocks if you want cause it's easy but I ended up pulling my limiter strap up a hole, will still wheelie out of the hole but it is much more controlled and not straight up and down anymore. No longer pushes in the corners, you point it and it simply goes there. This is the best handling, most predictable sled I have ever ridden, my 03 rev included, just takes some adjusting on your part. I know it can seem overwhelming reading on here sometimes all the little crap you have to do but trust me, it is worth it in the end, you just bought an AWESOME brand new sled for thousands less then I owe on mine and I have 2200 miles on it now so things could be worse , wish I would have waited a year.

Thanks deer, I know I got a deal on this thing just trying to make it right by all of the experts standards on here. Do you happen to know the exact way to order the helix from persay dennis kirk? its 103.00 through them and the derlin washers are like 6.99. I was gonna order it today, but I dont know who I should order it from. I am willing to try slp as well, just want to get it here the fastest. Through dennis kirk they show team helix and then all the different ones. I an pretty sure the one I want is the 66/44/42? or 66/44/46? any help would be greatly appreciated.

the "719" is the last three numbers of TEAM's part number, not sure on the angles , I haven't changed my helix yet case there isn't much feedback for it on a 700. I would think as long as you are sure you are ordering the correct part Dennis Kirk would be a fine place to get it, never had a problem with them. Make sure what ever you order is reverse compatible cause there is a difference.

Team part #420719

You want to look under tss-98 WITH engine reverse. You will find part #420719 angles are 66-44-42 and 70-46-42. It has two settings.

http://www.goodwinperformance.com/teamrollerclutches.asp

Thanks for the link, I will order that stuff right away, do you know if that comes with the derlin washers? Or do I have to order them separate?

I believe you will have to order the delrins separate.

How many delrin washers does a guy need to order with the helix?

Pretty sure it's 3. One on top of spring, one under spring, and one under the spring cup.

The SLP part number for the heilx is 50-73 and it is a 66-44-42ER / 70-46-42ER. It also has Team's 420719 part number etched into it. The SLP Delrin washers are part number 50-57 and run $3.34/ea.

Ordered helix and delrin washers today from goodwin performance. It took about 2 minutes to do, guys who answered the phone new exactly what i was talking about. Thanks for the good referall mild thunder. Hopefully slp stuff gets here today or tommorow and the helix by weekend or first of next week. My trip got cancelled to gaylord tommorow so hope the parts come in so I can do something to the sled since I don't get to ride it.

i got my helix from a freind it says 70 44 46 and 70 44 46 stock in 2005 is 62 46 36 i put epi yellow sping in front and polaris red in back didnt get to try it yet i ment 70 46 46 witch wood be better 70 44 46 or 7044 46

Reddemon...the "719" helix that everyone is talking about here has angles of 66-44-42ER / 70-46-42ER as listed above. I am going to try an Orange secondary 140-240 We'll see ya up the highlands!

Apparently I will have to wait until next week to work on sled, emailed place i bought my slp air box, and they said hasn't shipped yet due to the holiday. My reply was : I was trying to avoid that by ordering it on the 21st. Can not wait to hear what they have to say to that one. Question, do I have to have a compression tool to change out the helix or have you people who have done this find something readily available at home to use

The Helix will come right out after removing torx screws. To install the delrin washers you need to place in a compression tool , I use one from Bikeman's (was actually pretty cheap at Bikeman's Click Here- make sure to get optional 'fingers' for team drivens about $10-$15), and a snap ring tool. Snap ring tools are available at hardware/auto parts stores.

BTW: make sure your Snap Ring tool is made in USA. I found out real fast mine wasn't. Doh !!!!

I am going into my dealers to pick up my Helix in a bit here. He has at least one more in stock if anyone needs one and cannot find one. I am in Nova Scotia Canada so it may take a bit to get to you but just letting y'all know theres another one here.

Cfm I hear you on the snap ring tool..... back when I was younger and "wrenchen" on the old 440 I went through about 3 or 4 of the not american ones. Then I had my buddy who is a mechanic buy me one from the snap-on guy. It cost me 40.00, but it saved me 10 times that in the long run. Again, thanks for the help. Also I am gonna put some silicon around chain case and check my return spring on oil pump.

i got mine from bret big dog racen it says 70 44 46 and the oter angle70 46 46 and my stock one is 62 46 36 i have epi yellow in front and red polaris spring 140 260 in back how much weight are u usinig gone to try 77 grams

I have the MTX 77 's in it with 2 in the tip. Last weekend in the highlands I was overrevving to 7900. May have to put more weight to her.

just had mine for a run i have 74 mtx got 3 in middle 5 on top overinig to 8000 and 7900 hole shout gonto put 4 in middle and 6 on top lot of mid rage had it goinig 154 km in 700 but turninig 800 0 gone to weild 2 gram waer on top i have a scale got 82 in no had 78 last winter must ge that 70 44 46 get revis down it gone to work asome