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HCS Snowmobile Forums > Snowmobile Forums > Arctic Cat General Discussion > XFire 136"-141"/Mtn. Cat/M-series
ArcticFamily
I have the Black Diamond Defection Adjuster and TSS clutch tool.

When setting Secondary Clutch offset using the Black Diamond Deflection Adjuster, it appears to be moving when I run the sled up to get my offset adjustment.

I do not have the secondary bolt in at all.
I set the defelection, then run the track a bit and let it stop, grab brake to check offset.
Problem is the deflection appears to have moved so the belt sits low again.

What am I doing wrong? Or what's the correct sequence for setting deflection, then offset using the Al, Black Diamond Adjuster?

W.F.O.
do you have the cat alignment bar? if so use it, and set it as close as possible with little to no tolerance , and then remove .060" worth of shims from behind the secondary, as this is about how far off the bar is.
bee1971
QUOTE(ArcticFamily @ Dec 15 2007, 05:53 AM) *
I have the Black Diamond Defection Adjuster and TSS clutch tool.

When setting Secondary Clutch offset using the Black Diamond Deflection Adjuster, it appears to be moving when I run the sled up to get my offset adjustment.

I do not have the secondary bolt in at all.
I set the defelection, then run the track a bit and let it stop, grab brake to check offset.
Problem is the deflection appears to have moved so the belt sits low again.

What am I doing wrong? Or what's the correct sequence for setting deflection, then offset using the Al, Black Diamond Adjuster?



Nothing wrong - The purpose of the bolt is to hold the aluminum adjuster in place once you get your belt deflection set - Without the bolt , the aluminum adjuster can spin in while your running it up ,hence opening up the secondary sheaves when you slam on the brake


Trust me on this - In the end you will end up with either just one .060 shim behind secondary or just one .030 shim behind secondary thats it

With one .030 shim back there , upon full shiftout of my clutches the moveable sheave on secondary was starting to rub on the frame brace directly behind secondary - Pretty bad actually
Just aluminum on aluminum

Anyways so i went with just one .060 shim back there - (New frame and bulkhead later/tunnel bent last winter) Guess what just starting to rub ,but not bad - Yes i am getting full shiftout on my primary sheaves and thus the secondary is opening all the way just starting to rub on frame brace - You could file the frame brace down if you want


If your clutching is factory stock - You probably dont have to worry about it - Another words it wont fully shift out from what i have seen using the 036 belt and stock clutching
And this is the same for both of my Crossfires 6 + 7 - I now have my wifes dialed in also and now her secondary is starting to rub , because i got her shifting out all the way now also
On her primary , factory stock , i was probably ony shifting out to within 1/2" from the top of the primary sheaves - Now its just a tad short off the top

Run a tight belt defection - My sleds will start to squeal when the belt gets hot and sitting there idiling for awhile - Enough to drive me nuts - Sometimes worse then others

Hence all the talk under these threads about clutching/belts/shift asssists/orange springs bla blah blah ho ho ho MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE !!!

Scott
zr8000
QUOTE(bee1971 @ Dec 15 2007, 11:19 AM) *
Nothing wrong - The purpose of the bolt is to hold the aluminum adjuster in place once you get your belt deflection set - Without the bolt , the aluminum adjuster can spin in while your running it up ,hence opening up the secondary sheaves when you slam on the brake
Trust me on this - In the end you will end up with either just one .060 shim behind secondary or just one .030 shim behind secondary thats it

With one .030 shim back there , upon full shiftout of my clutches the moveable sheave on secondary was starting to rub on the frame brace directly behind secondary - Pretty bad actually
Just aluminum on aluminum

Anyways so i went with just one .060 shim back there - (New frame and bulkhead later/tunnel bent last winter) Guess what just starting to rub ,but not bad - Yes i am getting full shiftout on my primary sheaves and thus the secondary is opening all the way just starting to rub on frame brace - You could file the frame brace down if you want
If your clutching is factory stock - You probably dont have to worry about it - Another words it wont fully shift out from what i have seen using the 036 belt and stock clutching
And this is the same for both of my Crossfires 6 + 7 - I now have my wifes dialed in also and now her secondary is starting to rub , because i got her shifting out all the way now also
On her primary , factory stock , i was probably ony shifting out to within 1/2" from the top of the primary sheaves - Now its just a tad short off the top

Run a tight belt defection - My sleds will start to squeal when the belt gets hot and sitting there idiling for awhile - Enough to drive me nuts - Sometimes worse then others

Hence all the talk under these threads about clutching/belts/shift asssists/orange springs bla blah blah ho ho ho MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE !!!

Scott


Interesting information about the sheeves of the secondary rubbing on the frame. I cannot beleive how 'screwed' up these DD sleds are from the factory. In the end, however, I hope to have that same problem because I want mine shifting out that far! I am making some changes this upcoming weekend and testing more. Out of curiosity, what was the trick to get yours to shift out all the way. Mine is not even close. Dono had the suggestion to mill out the primary cup which I will do when I get it back in the garage...is this what you did? Unfortunately I am trying to tune from my computer!
DonoBBD
Give that foot well a smack with a hammer if you need more shift on her.
cmscat50
Yup, give the footwell a swat with a mallet or 2 x 4 and mallet. I run only (1) .030 shim also.
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