I have been following the CF 7 clutching topics for 3 years now on this site and on Arcticchat. Everyone has their own setup with either weights, secondary springs, shift assist, and different belts. RTK secondary kit.

Is this 06 CF 700 clutching so out of wack that their are so many variations out.

I think myself and the majority of CF 700 owners would like to know, what is an over all / best of both worlds setup for this sled.

Most would agree I am not looking for top end, I would of bought a 900 or 1000 sled and not a long track 136" to run at 100 + all ways. Most riders riding a CF use it for trail or trail/off trail riding.

What is the overall agreement on the clutching setup for trail/off trail setup.

I currently am completely stock except a with a Shift assist with 1/8 belt deflection, and 3 threads showing white adjuster. I have also replaced the rubber washer on the primary weights and put in nylon washers to allow the weights to have less resistance.

So where do I go from here, I know most CF 700 trail/off trail riders are wondering.

Thanks again,

Cheetah.

Sounds like Damage has got it pretty close a couple of topics down. Check it out see what you think

I thought stock was actually pretty decent. Other's don't agree.

I thought is was not bad stock either, but there is definately more there. everybody likes to clutch things their own way. personally I like soft belts. no matter which way you go there are more than 1 way to do it. guys that have theese things FLYING arent going to give you all the details, but may point you in the right direction.
ps softer belts, lighter springs and weights. and gear it up test.test.test.

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I have been following the CF 7 clutching topics for 3 years now on this site and on Arcticchat. Everyone has their own setup with either weights, secondary springs, shift assist, and different belts. RTK secondary kit.

Is this 06 CF 700 clutching so out of wack that their are so many variations out.
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.... Let me explain my thoughts on this....

Anyone coming from a firecat or ZR is used to a sled that does 1 thing well..... rip ass in packed conditions. They are a trail sleds through and through and the majority of clutching is all the same for that reason, give or take. So once one guy have it tweaked perfect and geared perfect for trail use, thats what everyone does. Hybrid sleds come out and they hit a market of people that like all sorts of riding, some like trails, some like a little deeper snow, and some have them set up for the mountain riding. These hybrid type sleds do several things very well and hence there is several ways of clutching for difference conditions. The next thing is these new (3 years now) sleds have a new type of secondary without a lot of testing done in comparison to the traditional torsional setup and gear system and a longer and heavier rotating mass with the longer, wider tracks than the firecats. Cat also not getting it right out of the box also puts a spin on things. So the fact is I believe there is going to be alot more diverse setups than in the past with sled types like firecats or m series sleds for the simple reason everyone rides these things in different ways. I think a few more seasons of seat time and bugs ironed out of cats poor newer design we'll start seeing a few setups for the 3 types of riding these things can do.... but for now its testing testing testing...we are getting there but not fully.

So, there is reasons that their is so much talk about clutching on here and AChat about this issue.

Here is what has worked on the 700.

77gram dalton pro's Primary spring cat orange/white.

44/40 helix with D&D shift assist and goodwin dark blue/yellow secondary spring.

Like stated above cleaning up the spring bind in the primary the shift assist will clean up the secondary spring bind. You can get the deflection adjuster like stated above too it work very well. Here is how to set them up to run.
Ok. Take the white left handed or black right hand thread ajuster out of the end of the helix. Push on the end of the helix but not the adjuster letting the belt drop into the secondary. Then turn the white or black ajuster out. YOu had to have taken this out to take the secondary off. IF you look on the adjuster there is some rings on it held on with an O ring. Adding a ring to this stack will tighten the belt.

With the rear of the sled in the air you want to add shims to the adjuster till the track wants to just creep ahead at idle. This is the perfect deflection setting. Don't worry about how much bend there is in the belt. Set it to the track creep.

Ok now the off set. The rings under the secondary are the shims that set the off set. Take them all out you may need to take them out with a magnet. Put the secondary on with out bolting it and with all the shims out from behind it. Put the belt on and put your deflection adjuster back in. With the rear in the air still and the belt guard off hit the flipper and spin the track up to speed. The secondary will pop into the motor then let off the flipper and let the track free wheel till it trys to creep at idle. Grab the brake and measure from the outter sheave of the secondary to a fix point on the DDrive. Do the test again and see if you come up with the same measurement. This measurement is where you want to shim to and bolt the secondary back on. The washer on the bolt may be cupped so just flip it and bolt it back on. IF the bolt seems to short add washers to make sure the secondary is fixed. Don't ride it with it floating.

You may find that you take out about .060 from where the dealer is setting them. That is because the off set bar is wrong from 2005. Now if your deflection changes then the off set will need to be re-set because the secondary on these sled cann't float any more. The old secondary that would float would set its self up as the belt worn in. IF the belt gets worn you may want to re test and check off set again.

The other thing is to check for primary spring bind in the spider cup. The springs even the stock spring tend to catch in the spider cup and we have been milling them wider to the brace in them. This gives room for the spring to grow and not hang up. You can close up the belt to sheave spacing too most are way to big. I like to see .025" between a new belt and the movable sheave in the primary. I bet you have .060 to .125"s in there. Changing this would mean you would have to pull the spider and get at the shims under it. IF you just want to ride making room for the spring to grow will make so much of a difference.
Cheers Don.

Above is a cut and paste from another post.


Stock clutching is very good. You need to address correct off set correct deflection and take care of the spring bind. If I was to take my primary off my sled and pop it on yours with your stock clutching in it she would blow your mind. Two grams more than stock as well as orange/white secondary for more snappy off the line take off that is mostly it for best all around riding. IF your into fine tuning there is some more to gain but not much.

Don.

Are the dalton weights a heaver tip than stock with the same profile.