I've read and read and I think what I've learned is if I want to SAVE myself MONEY and HEADACHES and most important TIME(I could be riding) is buy a "kit". When I bought the sled it was no fun to ride on the trail due to clutching, I ride with my daughters not just the "boys" so I went and bought the stock springs - big disappointment - I want something in between the "drag" set up and crappy stock set up. Sled I'm putting the kit in is a 00 zrt800,stock pipes with d&d can,boysens,air box been gutted and carbs jetted(nice tan). Prices are all roughly the same with the exception of BMP which has weights that wouldn't be worth it for my purposes. PLEASE I'd like to hear whats worked for you and what the kits advantage is,any help would be greatly appreciated,THANKS $299.00 BMP Clutch Kit
$179.00 EPI Trail Clutch Kit
$199.95 MCB Clutch Kit
$189.00 Goodwin Clutch Kit
$189.00 D&D Clutch Kit....

The best way to clutch is building your own for what you need the sled to do. If that isn't an option the trail kits will work, but they are just that "trail kits" they will accelerate hard and backshift well, not that great for a drag, or on the lakes. They are put togather to be better than stock,but not tuned to body weight and other things like track lug size, studs weight etc... JMO. MIKE>>>

I agree doing your own would be best BUT I dont have the knowledge or want to go through the hassles(I know lazy). Out of all the riding I do 99.5% of it is trail riding and playing corner to corner.not much in the way of lake running Will any of the companies work with you and ask those questions and put one together for you?

I hate clutch kits but... If I had to buy one It would be the one that changed the weights. I gaurantee those other kits have huge springs and a massive helix, yuk. Other than that you could just buy a helix with a couple more degrees start and a couple less finish than stock and buy a set of Dalton QACA ramps and throw all the weight at it you can. Then at least you can change the weight in the clutch without taking it off, they work sweet just screw in set screws.

Its not only clutching. Its has as much to do with gearing. Set the gearing up for 105mph max and run 58-60 grams of wgt. Run a max of 8100 RPM. Run a cat orange primary spring. You will have to play with the helix numbers. Start with a 57/62. That should be close depending on your weight. The sled will over rev at 105+ gps, but thats in approx 650 ft. Ive used that set up for years and it pulls very hard and back shifts great. I ride double with my daughter and she laughs when you get into it. Your elbows will hurt on a guys trip, but thats what its all about.

There is companys that will build a kit for your needs, but thats where the $'s come into play. That sled has been around awhile I'm sure there is pleny of folks on here that can point you in the right direction with that sled. Years ago I put a "trail kit" in my 2000 zrt 600, and it pretty much turned it into a heavy ZR600. Since then I did my own clutching for my needs with the help of the folks on this site, you'll be happier in the long run. JMO. MIKE>>

Hey mike i am wondering i understand how to put in the clutch parts but cant seem to get a handle on how i should set mine up. i am looking for something that is better than stock, but not an all out drag sled. mabye engage around 4200 or so. also what do adding the weights to the cams do? almost forgot, i weigh around 180lbs. just wondering if you could clear this up a bit?
Thanks