So these upper two wheels are pretty screwed up, I can't turn them a full revolution by hand when the track isn't touching them, they don't look very fun to replace,



2 of these wheels spin smooth and free, no noise and just a tiny bit of wiggle, the other 2 have some more wiggle, spin freely, but the bearings make noise, those should be replaced I assume?



Also the suspension is in the last hole on the track, it will get softer if I move it forward, right? Currently if I sit down abruptly towards the back of the seat the suspension compress about 1/2" and stays there, seems kind of stiff, I weight 165 Pounds. Should I move that forward or move the torsion spring to a softer setting?(the big coiled spring is the torsion spring, right?)



How do I get the track away from the wheels at the very back so I can check them to make sure the spin freely?

Lastly, my speedo is not working, the cable is not broken though, when it is hooked up to the track end the end that hooks up to the speedo just doesn't turn, any ideas?

Check out my new paint job, the hod was cracked in a few places and the windshield was cracked really bad, I fiberglassed them back together and gave it the darth vader paintjob, painted the windshield too LOL

I would replace all bearings. If some are bad, the others will be soon enough. As for the speedo not working, that is a sign that the driveshaft bearings are gone. Check into that.

Jason

Also, my rear suspension looks different then yours. Is your suspension stock for a '98 Powder Special?

Jason

I guess the suspension isn't stock, sled is new to me, got it for free, I don't know a whole lot about its past.

About how much will all new bearings cost?

The driveshaft is the one that turns the track, right?

I would imagine all new bearing would cost around $100. Someone else may be able to give you a better quote. Yes, the driveshaft is what turns the track.

Jason

You're gonna have to at least drop the back of the skid outta the tunnel to get to those. Youre also gonna need a bearing puller to get them off...not fun, but not the end of the world.



If there is bearing noise of they feel rough in there, I would replace them. Theyre on their way out at that point.




Try turning your spring adjusters down before you move the scissor forward - much easier this way. You're on the stiffest setting right now.



You need to first loosen the axle. Pop the caps off the center of those rear wheels and loosen 1 side while holding the other in place. Then you can loosen the axle adjusters. If you do this you can spin those wheels. Easier yet is to yank the whole skid out, seeing as youve got other work to do in there as well.



As has been said this is likely the driveshaft bearing. How many miles?

I pulled off one of the outside wheels, the bearing is a 6205, I found a set of 8 here for $25 way cheaper than the $13 each the dealer wants. I do have 12 wheels though, I can buy 2 sets and have a few extras.




Cool, I'll turn the spring down, how much sag should there be with me on the sled?



4010 on the odo, but as its not working who knows for sure.

$30 shipped for 10.

Nice deal. Looks like they are getting cheaper.

One thing I was wondering is, I was thinking all of the wheel bearings were the same except for the rear axle. Can someone confirm this?

Jason

The Arctic Cat dealer told me they were the same for every wheel that touches the track. And if they are anywhere near as stupid as car dealers thats completely wrong, but I had to buy 10 bearings to get the good price anyway so I did.

So how far should the suspension sag when I sit on the seat?

Both ends of the driveshaft should get new bearings while I have it apart I assume?

More than a couple inches would be too much, IMO. You'll know better once you ride it if it is stiff enough or not for you.

Chances are good, if your speedo is inop, you at least need the speed side bearing. So yes, it would be a good idea, but it's a bit more work.

Pull the skid and change all bearings.
While it is out, pull the drive shaft and change both bearings. The extra hr. it takes is worth it.
Besides, you will open the chaincase and be able to take a good look in there. If all is well, at least you'll be able to put fresh oil in it.
Peace of mind is worth the days work!

Kim

Speedo bearing... Timken P/N GRA100RRB with collar,around 12.00 dollars 1/3 the price of A/C,don't forget to get a new speedo gear pin.

I already had the chain case open and replaced the chain a week or so ago, oh well, its easy to open up again.




THANK YOU!!! Would you happen to know the part number for the bearing on the other side of the driveshaft?

WOW $30 bucks for ten of those bearings! bastard dealer wanted to charge me $34 bucks for ONE!
i found em' at the bearing supply house for $12...very common bearings, they said.

those top wheels are a real bitch! mine were seized on there good. heres how i got em' off.

take a set of snap-ring pliers with a 90* degree offset head in them, and reach around and remove the snap-ring on the back side of the wheel.
this will allow you to get the wheel off, while leaving the bearing on the shaft. then get on the bearing with a three-jaw bearing puller.

Exactly how I did mine on my last zr

Jason

I'll plan on a bearing puller then, with as much "differed maintenance" as there is on this sled I'm sure I'll need it.

The lower chaincase bearing is the same P/N as the speedo bearing except you don't install the collar.The upper bearing is Timken P/N RA014RRB and
the clutch bearing is Timken 1100KRRB with collar...

Woo Woooo!!!

Thanks!

Yup, i would replace all the bearings in the rear skid, if you have to replace a couple then you may as well do em all. As for the drive bearing ya, it sounds as it going for a crap, i would change it before it causes any damage to the shaft itself. Have fun this winter and enjoy.