Last year was my first season on the 1wx, great ridding sled. Rode 1100 miles of rough pennsylvania trails and my back was still in good shape. The fuel milage on the 700 was beter than the 500's and 600's I rode with, I think I will keep this one a few years, I don't know why the market droped on them but I would buy another one. If you can't get a part you can improvise or make your own. The one problem is that I haven't figured out yet is that I cant seem to keep it from jumping around when you run trail speeds abuve 35-40 mph. If I load the ski's more the back end slides around if I pick the front end up The ski's jump around, I just can't seem to get a happy medium between the two. It has the ohiens shock package and the track is worn with 144 severly used picks. I havent decided to either put new picks in it or a new track and which track to buy. I don't really like to stud my tracks but with only 33'' of footprint the 1 wx suffers in the traction department and think that it might be a must do. I do have the sway bar adjustment on the tight side and it has the stock ski's with good carbides.If I can get this sled to stick a line it will be the altimate ride. I am an auto technician by trade so I am not mechanically challenged, maybe spelling challenged. If you look at a blade and cant see the structual rigidity and awsome componets of the machine then you are just blind. My last sled was a 98 mxz 670 that was an awsome running sled but I pounded the living rivits right out of that COOKIE SHEET BODY. Hummmm a 1wx with a rotax rotary valve 670 ???? any way if any one has any sugestions on setteling the blade down I appreciate it. THANKS TONY

Sounds to me like you need a 1.25 track on it. I'd get the Ripsaw for it. Also, sounds like weight transfer is a issue. If so then one suggestion I'd make is that you put large carbides on the front. That will help hold it in place. Shaper bars are good but single runners still do dart. I used some dual runner carbides for a while and while they don't dart they do push in the turns. It's always a trade off.
If you ever decide to ride it in the Laurel Highlands give me a call (email) and we can hook up and I could ride it at the race track at the clubhouse to get a better idea on what needs to be done.

Steve
www.lhsc.net

Hey Steve thanks for the reply, I was actually think about one of the 1.25'' tracks with the molded in studs, has anybody read any reviews on these tracks? they only weigh 40lbs. with studs. The 1WX uses modified C&A pro skis with 6'' of center carbide with another inch on either end I was figuring that would be enough carbide. We have talked obout going to the Highlands but never seem to get there,I heard its nice, maybe this year. I have the Bald Eagle Forest in my back yard and we ride Black forest and Coudersport areas a lot, my buddy has a camp in Potter county. thanks for your advice it will help me make my decision. Tony

The molded in studs are not a replacement for real studs but if you want a track with better traction than a stock rubber one then it'll be fine.
6" carbides might be enough with C/A skis. My preference is for 7.5's.

Steve

Hey Steve camoplast makes a ripsaw patern 1 1/4'' track with the molded studs, its called the ICERIPPER, sounds like this might be the one for me. thanks again Tonyt