i dont recall but what year was it that you had to replace the drive shaft bearing in the chain case? i though it was the 06. if so, is this the updated bearing?

Click to view attachment

nope, thats not the one. get the self aligning one and put it in.

Dumb question, how do you put a self aligning bearing which is radiused (oval O.D.) in a case which is made for a 6205 flat O.D. bearing??


Don

damn it, was hoping i wouldnt have to spend the money. does anyone have a picture of the self aligning bearing, a part number, and a price?


do any of you iq guys have an extra one lying around i could get a little cheaper then dealer price?

this may be a dumb question.... if the slip gear somewhat tightens against that bearing, whats really the point of that c-clip?

Is your original bearing flat on the O.D., if so how would a radius bearing fit in your chaincase??

i have no idea, all i know is that i was told you were to update to a self aligning bearing....

[quote name='jordan123' date='Nov 8 2007, 08:30 PM' post='3207225']
i have no idea, all i know is that i was told you were to update to a self aligning bearing....


By whom??

heres a picture of the bearing installed

if this bearing is not installed, and is ridden somewhat hard without the slipper gear the driveshaft will put enough pressure on the chaincase for it to flex and the snap ring will pop out of place causing a big mess.

That bearing is the same as the one in Jordan123's except no blue rubber seal- how is it "self aligning"? Please explain.
Thanks.

i dont understand whats so great about the "self aligning" bearing. it still has a c-clip to pop out. you say this happens when you dont have a slipper gear, what if you have the slipper gear like my sled does?

alright, i found a little bit on this topic and an oil seal was mentioned. the part number for the one in the sled right now is 3610030, does this need to be replaced along with the bearing, and is this the right one?

tom, i seen that you offer the self alignment bearing for 50$ and 2 day shipping. are you still doing this, if so do you take paypal, and could you pm me that. does this include that oil seal, or no? need to know so i can get that ordered from the dealer tommorow.

If you have a 2006 440 IQ, the bearing that comes stock in your sled from Polaris is part # 35714309, and the 2007 IQ 440 used a self aligning bearing # 3514462, and cost is $40.59 from Polaris.


Don

The self alligning bearing 3514462 is used in place of the stock bearing. For hard trail riding or any kind of jumpoing or SnoX you should this bearing or you will low the snap ring grove out of the lower chain case. The axle flexes so much on acceleration and landing with power on that the bearing will . in the case and the grove willcrack out starting at the 7 o-clock position. It doesn't matter if you sue the slip gear or not. The '08 sleds have the self alligning bearing.

Don, both bearings are flat on the OD. The 4462 bearing has a double row of balls and only the center race swivils in the bearing. The outer race stays stationary in the case.

Jordan, Yours in the picture aren't the self alligning. You can run it like that if you are easy on it but your case will eventually fail.

That's for clarifying that, I haven't had enough newer sleds in the shop to see that yet, I usually get sleds after they broke. I can understand how that will work without using a different chaincase.


Don

is the top bearing fine though?

so what years of IQ's need this upgrade???

05 and 06

if they knew of this problem in 05, why wouldnt they have put it in the 06's from the factory?

I'm 99% sure its just 06. I had an 05 without the self aligning bearing and never had an issue with it.

Top bearing will be fine as is.

I understand that the updated drivers in 06 had something to do with causing the problem. It's no big deal, If you have an 05 just to be safe, next time you pull the chain case, install the updated bearing. It's $50 and an hours work.

k thanks for the answer to my high jack lol

you can get this bearing out without pulling the drive shaft right? i know on cats you didnt have to but on the poo the bearing is deeper in the case.

No, you must remove the case.

i have to remove the whole chaincase?? what if i pulled the driveshaft out.... no way to do it with the case in the sled?

can i just pull the skid and drive shaft out, and get the bearing out that way, or is this bearing pressed in? if its pressed in and i have to pop the case off, ill have to replace the upper and lower oil seals, correct? ... i really need to get a manual. anyone have a part number for that by the way?

If you pull the driveshaft, you could use a bearing driver of the right size and knock it out the front, then using the driver install the new bearing, they are lightly pressed in.

alright, ill have to try that. then i will only have to replace the one seal.

thanks xcr.

You wouldn't have to replace the seal if your carefull, but I would as long as you have it apart anyhow, if you have bearing/seal drivers, use them to remove the bearing and install the new bearing and seal.

Don

i dont have a bearing driver. i was going to use the back side of a socket that was the same diameter as the bearing to push it out. i dont have a seal driver, but if im careful and take my time it should be good. i rebuilt our fourwheeler motor and put new seals in without one. if im careful it will be fine.


thanks for the help. i'll have to start on that in the morning.

It will be difficult to install the seal with a socket, an aluminum piece of round stock would be easier and safer on the seal.

Don

Pulling the chaincase would be way easier. Your way you've still got to open the case up and pull the bottom gear and chain off. Just pull the case, it'll make putting the bearing in easier.

ill just pop the case off for the hell of it. im pulling the skid out anyway, so ill get to check everything over well


oh, and i want going to put the seal in with the socket, just the bearing. on our fourwheeler motor i was able to push the seal in with my fingers. they were the same type of seals. i understand how this needs to be done now. thanks guys


anyone have that part number for the service manual?

Just couriose, does any one know if this bearing would work on a ProX? The chain case looks the same. My thought is that it would be a little better, ecspecialy if the chaine case and shafts aren't perficly alighned. This may help reduce some drag and mabye get a little more Mph's. Also it would have more bearing sufice and less rolling rezistance.
It also should work for the jack shaft to than rite? They typicaly are the same size bearing correct?

You won't push this seal in with your fingers.

they work on the pro x as well, im doing this wery soon, my cousin did it last month

my 2003 440 had one in it when i got it. yours should too unless maybe its a consumer version. either way if it doesnt have one put it in there.

oh, well i'll figure it out. or else i'll have my dealer push it in.

I suppose you could use a socket that is slightly larger then the seal. That way it'll at least sit flush.

Use the flat side of the socket against the seal back.

that was my original plan. i dont see how you guys get the case out without taking the drive shaft out? if you pull the case off the shaft you end up hitting the footwell beings the case sits down into that concave in the belly pan tub.

When removing the chaincase you need to lift up on the case, including the drive axle and jackshaft. When you lift it up about 1" it will clear the footwell thingy it's hanging up on. When the sled is on its side it's easy to just push up on the drive axle and slip the case off the two shafts. With the sled not on it's side it helps to have a second person to push up on the axle while you slip the case off the shafts. Either way it slips right off and clears the footwell no problem when you lift it up just a little.

As mentioned, first choice is a bearing instalation tool for pressing in the new bearings. A properly sized socket turned up side down will work also. Be very careful to get the bearing lined up properly before you go to beating it into place. The case is easily damaged if the bearing is cocked when you start to drive it into place. Same goes for the seal. The seal can be saved if you take care when removing the case, if you are too rough on removal you will damage the seals, it's good to have a few spares around just incase you damage one when removing or reinstalling the chaincase.

alright, well my skid has to come out to get checked over anyway.... so instead of prying on the shaft ill probably just drop it out. i will be using an arbor press, not just a hammer to get the bearing in.


for the pto side drive shaft bearing needle grease holes... do the holes need to be perfectly lines up so the greaser goes through the plate, then into the bearing, or do you just inject grease into the flangette, and let the grease get pushed in itself?

i'll be honest. im having a hell of a time lining up those grease holes.

My 600 didn't have one and we just got an 04 440 I'll have to check it out, the seal is still in the bearing. so today I'll pop it out to see. I'd rather have the seal out of the bearing any ways on the top and bottom so they get constant lubercation and so the outer seal dos't blow and cause a leak.(the oil pump effect)

Yes, definately, the skid has to come out to get the chaincase out. It might come out with the skid in but it's very difficult.

The grease holes do not have to be lined up perfectly just within 1/4". I use the needle greaser to assist in the allignment. It's a little tricky but it will line right up.

thanks again. i went out and looked at it an hour ago and thought to myself "theres no way in hell this case is coming out with the skid in." i tried to use the needle greaser to line them up when i was messing with it last week and was a little to rough and kinked the needle greaser. i will try ot be more gentle. it was pretty easy to get it within like a 1/16" but couldnt get them perfect. i took a sharpie and marked the side of the bearing aline with the hole and that helped a ton.

did you drill the hole jordan?

are you talking about the needle greaser hole? if so no, im speaking of the drive shaft flange that already had the hole in it from the factory, not the jack shaft.

i was talking about the driveshaft. thanks