Hey,

I have an '03 Pro-X factory mod 440 that was converted to trail by the previous owner. He said the sled has always had the problem, and I have learned how to ride around it, but its kind of annoying and I would like to fix it and I am hoping someone else has had the same issue.

From a stand-still, if I pin the throttle, it will bog and continue to bog and hold around 5500 rpms. The only way to get going from a stand still is to feather the throttle until the clutch is fully engaged and then it has all the power in the world. I looked into the trail conversion kit and it has the recommended spring and weights for the low comp. head installed. It has good (120) compression in both cylinders. Do you need to change any other setting(jets, etc.) when this is converted? Or should I change out the weights?

Help and thanks!!

If it wasnt cold out that the problem. The 440 motor is really high strung and needs to be jetted for every 10*f of temp change . If the jetting is off by 2~3 sizes it bogs in the midrange.

Also, are you hitting it from idle, or from holding it just below engagement rpm? Be sure the idle is set to 22-2500 rpm warm engine. And as mentioned, get used to jetting for every 10 degrees temp change.

I really appreciate your guys fast and full responses!! Sorry it took so long to get back, we dont have any snow yet and im still trying to get the skiis put winterized before it freezes too hard.

Heres what I got so far....
Belt is a Polaris 3211080
Heights are S-49H
Spring is a White/Red

According to the manual, which I cannot find right now, the weights and the spring is correct for my riding here. (temp, etc.)

Is this the correct belt? I'm going to replace it anyway, but should I get the same one?

Thanks

More digging finds a 340 and a 32.5 jet in both carbs.
also top screws are 4.5 turns out and bottom screws are 3/4 turn out on both carbs.
I always take the carbs apart before and after the season and always sync them before every season.
I was told by someone else to use a 320 jet on the MAG side carb and a 330 jet on the PTO side carb, does that sound right? And what about the smaller one, is 32.5 correct? and the screw settings? Where is a good starting point to begin adjusting, as I cant "ride test" it yet?

I could be wrong, but 320's (at 30*) should be better for you... You will still need to jet for every 10-15* temp change though. Whoever was saying to go with staggered jetting was most likely thinking of the 440 fan that was in a couple of Pro-X's - you will want both to be the same.

I'm going to the polaris dealership tomorrow to get some new parts so I will try a set of 320's but should I still leave the other ones at 32.5? Also is the above mentioned belt the right one to use?
Need a verdict before I go-a-buyin....
Thanks, guys

yes, the 1080 is the correct belt. As for the pilots, 32.5's should be the ticket. pockets has forgotten more about these sleds then I will ever know, and I'm sure he will chime in.

try richening your air screw a 1/4 -1/2 turn (bottom one). mine were set at 3/4 turns but we just got it so I don't know how is wil be whenits colder. and what is your needle set at? try moving it up one notch if its in th #1 or #2 position, tyr #3 (middle) see if it helps you may want to do this for trail ridding any way just to be safe for realy cold conditions(nights) and the top screw you mentioned should be the idle so just make sure the are even at your desired idle.

Ok.... we got snow here so I am re-opening this thread. Finished out the season with out solving my problem... ben doing alot of digging and bugging the hell out of IAPro-X and I thought I might make my tuning public incase anyone has the same issue because it is ANNOYING!!!

Here is where the sled sits as of today (rode it... same ol' bog)
320 mains
32.5 pilots (ordered 35's per one suggestion)
Air screw out 3/4 turns
moved needles from 2 to 4 and back to 3 (no help)(ordered a shim kit to hit 2.5)
Jet needles = 6GL64 (look good, no shiny spots)
throttle valve = 2.5 (has a few vertical scratches in it from running up and down, ok?)
Electronics set to "E" position (per 92 octane kit instructions)
new 1080 belt mid last season
.020 belt clearance on primary clutch (ok per local Polaris Tech)
S-49H weights (per 92 octane kit)
almond/red primary spring (per 92 octane kit)
32:1 premix (91 oct. w/ AMSOIL Dominator)
warm Idle set to about 2000 rpm (means screws are out like 6+ turns!?)
clutch engagment @ about 4800
Max RPM about 8500 RPM

It runs fine when the track is in the air, but bogs under load at about 5500 RPM. I also noticed today as I was loading it in my truck (stopped on the way up a steep snow pile) that the clutch would not engage when I was "stuck." I had to back it up and take a run at it. Shouldnt the clutch have engaged and atleast spun the track!?

I have heard about cleaning the VES, should I be concerned with this? I have never done this and its my first VES motor.

Thanks guys!! I need to get this figured out as I am planning a trip to Wyoming and I am sure I will need every horse that this sled has to make it out there!!!

Seems to me like you have a clutching issue. I have no experiences with 440's but by the looks of all of the carb tuning you have done with no cure to it, I would think its in the clutching. Take those valves out and clean them!

Should be a clutching issue since it's bogging only under load. Jetting can be a little different when the sled is under load but not enough to cause the problem you're having IMO.

Remove clutch from sled, remove cover, spring, weights. Make sure spring is not sacked out, weights are in good shape, blow out the clutch with compressed air, clean it with hot soap and water, inspect the clutch for any binding that might be going on. Do the same with the secondary clutch.

Make sure your belt is good, check C-C, alignment, offset, and belt deflection.

i had a similar problem last year with the bogging under a load. dont really know if i have it fixed either but i know for sure, if you haven't already, clean the VES if they stick open or closed for some reason they'll screw up the way the sled runs a lot. i dont have any snow here yet so i dont know if what ive messed with durnig the summer has had any effect. if you get it figured out let me know...

shortstop had some good points- check the center to center. It should be 11 1/2" and do get the valves cleaned up. It shouldn't mess with the bog, but it's good to keep them clean. Raise your hot idle up to about 2500rpm and get those clutch springs replaced.

I had the same problem check your slides on the carbs thay like to crack

Thanks for alll the info guys! I finally got my shop set up so I can work in it and I will start at the top of the list and work my way down. Clutching scares me a little as I am much more fluent in Watercraft... direct drive!! Good thing is I do have a service manual (the Local Polaris shop didnt even have one for an 02!) What I fear is starting to take something apart and then springs and parts go flying and then not knowing how to get them back together!!
I guess thats where you guys come into play! haha... Our snow is melting but I'll keep you updated on the progress

Check your clutch alignment, my RXL did that for years until last year i figured out that my secondary clutch had to be shimed out a bit and it fixed the problem......good luck.

I have a simple little tool I can send you for the primary. It takes all the drama out of the cover removal- not that there is that much.

I bout one and thought that I was only going to use it once BOY was I worng.Best 30 bucks i've spend in a long time

I GOT IT FIXED!!! and all i can say is HOLY $#!T POWER!! I ran into a guy that works for a company my engineering firm is working for and took it to his shop last night. He builds custom sleds and motors in is off time. I explained everything, told him suggestions for everyone and we went to town. Started by pulling the primary, cleaning and replaced the spring with a bit heavier spring... rode it, no help.
My plugs read pretty rich, so we took the needle back to #1... ran and spooled up faster on the lift, but stilll bogged w/ load
pulled and checked the VES.... looks and operated fine

He was starting to believe that it could be something more serious like a crank seal or poor compression or something. We were bsing about riding and I was telling him that my sled wont keep up with my dads 600 summit and probably only tops out at about 65 -70 mph. That flipped on a light and we immediately pulled my secondary. The low octane kit says nothing about changing the Helix!! I was running a 66-44-46 helix! we dropped in a 44-46 and now she runs like nothing I have ever ridden before!! on grass (our snow melted) it will stand right up on end out of the hole! And only cost me $80 for a heavier spring, helix, and about 2 hours of this guys time!

Thanks again for all your guys help with this issue... I was about 1 season from dumping this machine and now I am really glad I didnt!!

Good to hear that she's running as it should!

It's amazing the difference clutching can make. People don't realize it until they tune a sled and then actually feel the difference first hand. A sled that's tuned to perfection and a sled that was tuned by a 6 year old looks the same under the hood, but that's where the similarity's end.

I think that i bout a sled from a 6 year old my shit is all out of wack

Well I have gone though just about everything and I am sure with the rest of us here we can figure it out... we figured mine out and I have had it to 2 polaris shops and they both looked at me like they have never seen one before!

I am not sure if there is a difference in an 02 440 liquid factory mod with the trail conversion and a regular "store bought" 440 liquid. Porting maybe? but I would think the set up I am running should be a good starting point!

There was no such thing...the 440s are all race production only. The dealers could only sell the fans. Although alot of dealers would order race sleds and sell them anyways..

In that case I'd suggest using my settings for a good starting point, right? If 02Pro-Xboys sled was converted to trail, I bet he too has too steep of a helix. I do not recall that the 92 octane kit's instructions said anything about swapping out the helix and the low octane motor does not have enough power to "climb that steep initial angle" at clutch engagment.

I will take a look and see i bet the dumbshit i bout my sled from did that

bump187 do you know the part # I look on partsland and didn't see it

It is a Team Industrues helix. Here is a link to their snow parts catalog. The replacements are $109. Look to page 33.
Team Industries Snow Catalog
I believe the one i am running is #LW420565 44/48
I was told that the one I WAS running would be a great helix for an 800 skidoo w/ a team ind. clutch
It only takes like 10 minutes to pull the secondary off and see what you are running.

Just a heads up to all that are dealing with a issue like this , ANY team part number that has " LW" is a 4 bolt helix for the newer style clutch ! Make sure you order the corect parts , the original clutch that comes on a prox is a ts-98 not a LW! the parts dont interchange .

Good point xcmark!

The jet chart that came with the low comp heads said to use a 66-44-46 helix

The helix has two angles. The 66/44-.46 is the proper one to use for the 440, but your spring was likely also sagged, and it was probably in the steeper angle on the helix as well, compounding the problem. I would also bet that he adjusted your belt deflection properly, as with the 440, all the standard adjustments must be right on.

pockets the word around HCS is that your the man to talk to about the Pro-x440 do you know somone around my way that could help me out my sled been in and out of shops all last year

Correction- any Polaris sled.

My bad

Its all good iam runnin a 66-44-46 took it for a ride around the yard I think iam good to go