I am looking for upgrades for my sled. Suggestions?

I was also wondering if anyone knew if a silencer from a 93' wildcat 700 would fit on my 94' ZR 700?

Thanks

what kind of up grades are you talking about? performance upgrades or for "looks"....as for the silencer i am going to say that if it is a twin silencer it should fit right on..

First upgrade, TSL skid frame. Second, Tempa-Flow. I am just completing a long travel front end conversion on mine, so I don't know how it works, but if it works as good as the others who have done it, then by all reports that will become the second best money I've spent on my old 94. A handle bar riser is also a good addition and you don;t have to go too far to make a big difference. A 2" riser makes a huge difference and doesn't require modification to throttle cable or brake line.

my sled is upgraded pretty good..

790cc big bore/wiesco piston kit installed
psi twin race pipes
shaved heads(ten thousanths)
second stage trail ported
carbon tech reeds
rollar clutch for sec.d.
9-tower prim.
h.p.e. clutch kit
uni air filters
reverse gears removed
144 inch & a quarter mega bite studs
new one inch staggered track
44mm carbs bored to 46.5mm with adjustable power jetts installed


i herd that you shouldn't do any porting with having twin race pipes . does anybody have any thoughts on this...sorry to jack your thread, but it is good for you to know this as well if you are planning to upgrade.

I guess I am really looking for both performance and looks modifications. This is "my" first sled and I am looking to somewhat customize it.

As far looks I've found interest in chrome windshields, vent screens, grips, headlight covers, and a few other things. Other interests?

And performance wise I'd be looking for simple things as of now, not going to rebuild anything major till I have problems or at least till later down the line. So small motor items like reeds, intake/exhaust modifications, etc would be what I am looking at. With the shaved heads are there reccomendations as how much to take off? And do you run a higher octane fuel? How about changes made to run the uni air filters? I would really like to do this mod as my rubber boot connecting the airbox to the carbs has seen its better days....

Yes I would be interested in a riser (where to buy from?) And could you tell me more about how and why I should update to a TSL Skid? Tempa-flow? I'm kinda new to this whole modding thing with snowmobiles.

I think with more time in the snow I will be looking for suspension upgrades and such along with a different clutching set up, but that is probably further down the road.

One last question about tracks. If the tracks are the same length and width will they generally fit? Anyone know what the tallest lug I can run is?

I've been looking around and just seem to be having trouble finding these after market parts for my sled. So if you could point me to some good websites or companies along with your suggestions on what I should do that would be great too.

http://search.ebay.com/arctic-cat_Snowmobi...8QQsacatZ100448

thats a start for the websites......go to the parts and acessories on here and go to the cat parts...some stuff on there as well...another is www.royaldistributing.com....as for the track height i would say an inch and a quarter would be about the best to run....if your on hard pack snow don't buy a ripsaw as the lugs are very soft...soft lug is good for the fluff, hard lug is better for the packed stuf..uni air filters are good but you may want to go up one jet size on the mains...i would only take ten thousands off the heads...you can still run normal fuel.just make sure it is the beat at the pump...twin race pipes make a huge difference(about 15-16hpr)..ebay is the spot for them as well....

for the riser go with an ole's riser if you need contact info send me a pm. im not sure if he is a sponsor here or not but i have seen him on other sites

The TSL skid frame will bring the world of long travel suspension to your sled. The sled will ride substantially better, be more comfortable, and that alone, I think, makes it more fun and more enjoyable day in day out. The sled is plenty quick in stock form and my feeling is that you'll get more out of ride quality and comfort improvements over power upgrades. The Tempa-Flow is a device that will automatically compensate your fuel delivery for changes in air temperature. This keeps your performance and fuel consumption at peak levels, when properly set up, which makes everything work better. If the skis have not been upgraded to plastic, than that is also a great change to make. On the performance side, clutching is always the best bang for the buck. I have also converted my secondary clutch to a roller cover, with stock Cat parts, and it is great for improving the backshift, which is great when moving off trail into deep snow and for accelerating out of a corner.

Almost like my machine:

800cc BM Bigbore
PSI Stage II pipes
Ported
Boysen Rad Reeds
9-tower primary
Heelclickers
K&N air filters
192 inch Woodys Golddiggers
SLP Ultra Lite Skis
Carbs bored to 44mm
M10
SnoPro Bars
-00 Snowflap

Looking for a affordable rollerclutch here in Sweden as my next mod.

Picture:
http://www.familjeliv.se/krypin/oneleg_jam...y/phpdt2aro.jpg

Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment

i was wondering what size belt you were running on your sled....i have the same one on mine since i bought the thing last season....what is the arctic cat belt that your susposed to run...mine has a dayco max onto it...is the cat belt a 0 2 1 ??

how much hpr do these sleds have stock...115????.

Nice pictures "mod zr 700", looking at the underside of your sled reminded me that I have a holeshot skidplate on mine.. they are really low in the front end and my had a lot of scratches under the belly when I bought it.

Seeing a black ZR with stock suspension reminds me of how LOW these sleds are, the only other sled I've ridden with the same "gocart" feeling to it is the Yamaha SRX. Misses the stock skid when the trail is smooth.

ya it is a very low sled...i have a 94 zr 440 ett in front of my 700 in the pic that sits a little higher....but my 700 is lowered for racing in the pic...but like you say, they are a tank to ride on the rough trails.....fun as hell tho...

ZR800M10, sounds like a fun ride. Do you use 50-7 or 55-7 HC weights in that? I have a few sets I've been trying to sell out of my zr 600 and a ZRT. thanks

My 96 580 was awesome in the bumps with a F.A.S.T. long travel shock kit in the front and a longlegs kit in the rear,almost as good as my 02 ZRCC but better in the corners.

Hmmm... honestly I don't remember but I think it's 55-7 that I have.

Got some snow here today! 1,5dm (6 inches?) But it's wet snow..

zr800m10 did you remove you reverse gears as well??? what gear ratio are you running....

The Stock 94 - 95 ZR 700 should be around 125HP, the Wildcat was 115.

but i thought they were the same motor???????????????????

Din't come with reverse in Sweden.. I'm running stock gears and manual (I think that was stock also) chain tensioner...

I had one of those;

1)roller secondary 2)2" bar riser 3) good plastic skis 4) handlebar hooks 5)jet to 380 mjs 6)clutch it 7) stud it, and then 8) go out and have a blast with it!! This sled would still be MORE than competetive with todays sleds in handling on groomed,twisty trails. snap

Same bottom end, different cylinders, and exhaust too, I think. Check the part numbers on the micro fiche.

i have both sets of motors...my wildcat 700 top end says on the side of the cylinders 700cc and on my zr 700 top end it says on the side of the cylinders 700ml........is their a difference in piston size?? 81mm or 82mm or are they both 81mm....another question that i was wondering was ...how do the zr cylinders produce more hpr over the wildcat cylinders if they are the same bore size?...i have both of these motors running and both are in zr chassis..the zr motor does seem to be a bit quicker than the wildcat motor...so i do believe your theory about one producing more hpr than the other but i just can't figure out how or why???..if anybody has any info onto this it would be great...or if anybody knew where i cold find info onto this as well

Different porting. If the exhaust is different, then different pipes too.

The exhaust was only different because the wildcat was in a different chassis - when in the same chassis (1995) both motors took the same pipes.

I am still unsure on different HP, haven't found an answer there. I do know that stock clutching was different with the zr700 being more aggressive, but the ignition was the same. It seems to me that it wouldnt make sense to have 2 different motors in production, but that doesnt mean it didnt happen. I know the Wildcat originally came about in 1988 as the 650, and as a 700 in 1991. So maybe they kept that 700 the same and upgraded the zr700 motor? I don't know, but if anyone does that'd be great.

they're both pretty fast, that I know....

ya they are fairly fast...i could get around 90-92mpr in 660ft when i had twin psi pipes, new 9-tower, new roller clutch and a clutch kit..144 studs....found that fairly fast for a 13 year old sled...there are new 700's around where i live that don't get that in 660ft.....that is on radar too...town police like to watch us race lol....they radar us every now and than

What do you guys suggest for clutching and/or gearing changes?

bump

Sounds like you drag race alot so this might not matter but.. I had a 95 ZRT that I bolted a 98 ett skid in it and the front a-arms and shocks. Almost same chassis as your I think. Front bolted right on I think I had to change tie rods as well.. The rear was not that bad, just alot of measuring as had to add a couple new holes. Worked fantastic. Never had an issue with the rear bottomoing out and hitting the tunnel either. Everyone said you had to have the ETT tunnel. nope. All this stuff is so cheap on e-bay.

Dude,

there are a lot of 94 ZR700 owners in this action so I though a fellow big twin rider ,may have an answer for me. I used half of a tank of oil for 3 gallons of gas. The oil pump is adjusted right. Someone thought that it could be because I was using just plain old 2 stroke injection oil (which says on the bottle can be used in anything) instead of "snowmobile" injection oil. I changed it to snowmobile stuff but I doubt that this will make a difference. It does not leak any oil either. It is using so much that it tries to fowl out the plugs. The carbs have 390 main jets in them with the needles on the second notch from the top, so if the needles were leaned out anymore they would be the leanest that they could go.

Your oil pump is either malfunctioning, or you need to adjust the setting. If you have the index marks lined up at WOT and idle, then try adjusting it to open later and not as far. You should probably use around a quarter tank of oil for a tank of fuel.

There are 2 markes to line up? The service manual says to open it to full throttle and look at the mark on the arm and the one on the pump and make sure they are aligned. It doesn't say anything about a idle mark. How can one be in alignment but not the other?

Thanks,

pre-mix.....easy fix

Does anyone think it could be the check valves. Maybe because it is pumping constently instead of just when the pressure is right? (5 lbs I think) Also I think (if the valves are stuck open) that when my sled is just sitting there that the oil is free to run down into the crank so I when I go to start it there is way to much and it is trying to fowl my plugs.

Tell me what you think,
Thanks

ttt

ttt