I have a 01Polaris 440 liquid motor in my 2003 edge chassis.

The sled will rev and ride to about 7000 RPM, but then the motor seams to hit a wall. The only time I can get it to run past 7k is if i start on a hill. In that case it will only run good for so long before it starts to bog again. If i am on a lake and get it opened up, it will stay wide open but it will burn down or run very hot. I have already lost one piston.

All parts are from the 440 motors original setup (elec, exhaust, carbs) and the clutch setup is as follows:

53g Weights
white-orange primary spring
36 degree helix
silver-blue secondary spring
19/39 gearing

jetting? i'm pretty sure those 2 sleds have different air box's so it'd have to be jetting...

I'm not super familliar with that sled but here are a few possibilities.

1. Your EV solenoids are not closing (they both have to close), in turn not allowing the Exhaust Valves to open. You might try disconnecting the tubes and capping the nipples off or making a little jumper hose between the two EV nipples.

2. Your jetting is too rich for your elevation and temperature. The motor is not building up enough heat and the pipe is surging. Stock MJ was 350, I'm guessing you could get away with 320 or less depending on what temp and elevation you are at today.

3. Your primary and or secondary springs are sacked out and not allowing the motor to rev up to peak RPM before attempting to shift out. The stock primary should be p/n 704198 Almond/Red, (Im gessing yours is really almond/red) Stock secondary should be p/n 7042022 the Blue/Orange.

4. Your Pipe Temp Sensor is malfunctioning and not allowing the CDI to advance properly. You can unplug the pipe temp sensor and plug the two wires back into themselves to bypass the sensor. The CDI will think the Temp sensor is satisfied and function like the pipe is up to temp. If this experiment makes no change in the performance, plug the sensor back in properly before trying anything else.

I would try 1 & 4 above first and work from there. Do one experiment at a time to narrow down the possibilities.

Great ideas!

One thought. If i start rolling down hill and hammer the gas, it will open up all the way. How could that little bit of extra umph play in?

The motor isn't loaded nearly as much so it may be able to pull through the clutches shifting and get to Peak RPM.

But I would look at everything, and 441's jetting suggestion is a likely possibility.

You didn't say where your jetting was.


PS. Welcome to HCS.

check your plugs, what did your good piston look like after you blew the other? try unhooking your exhaust valve selenoid then putting a hose from one to the other

I had tried jets as low as 320, and from 320 to 350/360 in one day it made no difference. So I dont think that it is jetting. But then someone told me I should run 390s for below 0, which seams too rich. I have also tried a wide range of weights, with different helix hole positions. I could tell a difference in performance, but the issue at 7000 rpms stayed the same. At this point I think its something with electrical or fuel flow (ie. bad pump and fuel starvation at top end?).

My exhaust pipe also comes off at a slight angle from my y-pipe, due to differences in the bukhead design of the pro-x and edge chassis. I wonder if this small amount of change could cause this issue. It happens so consistently and at the same RPM.

Also as far as electrical, the harness from the pro-x has more connectors that I know what to do with in an edge chasses. The VES system alone has 4 two-prong connectors that I am not sure on what to do with. The CDI box also has a few wires that I cant really find that right connection to. These seam to be for stuff my chassis doesnt have.

Is there any possibility that timing is somehow set for 110 octane, even with the switch is position E?

http://media.snowmobilefanatics.com/galler...sized_27468.jpg

http://media.snowmobilefanatics.com/galler...sized_27470.jpg

http://media.snowmobilefanatics.com/galler...sized_27471.jpg

Proxr, they both were real hot, and the plugs were weight/gray/hot looking. Thats why I was going richer on the jets.

Did you put your Ssecondary back together right? I meen did youi load the spring correctly? How many turns?

Do you have the coolant temp plugged in? The white and brown wire should go to your coolant temp sensor.
the black pug with the pink w/black stripe /black w/white stipe (I think) and white plug w/yellow should plug into the main harness somewere for your kill switch and the yellow may not be used. I can look tomarrow on our 04XR , we just got it so I'm not that familiar yet I'm used to 600 stuff

did you play with your timing at all before installing the motor?

Ding, Ding, Ding, Ding. You just figured it out.

I'm not positive exactly what EV wires you are saying are plugged in and which ones are not but this is very likely your problem. The proper EV wires have to be plugged into the proper connector.

Are you using the 440 CDI and CDI wiring harness??? There shouldn't be any extra wires between the motor and the CDI, they should all go somewhere. Do you have the Coolant Temp Transmitter plugged in?

In picture three, that looks like your temp sending wire from the CDI, it should be plugged in.

The y pipe angle is not the problem for sure.

The one in the second pic has a white plug + a double black plug. Is that what you mean for ground? There was another smaller wire with a lone white plug like that that i use for the ground, and it works, so I just kept it like that.

What are all the white ones in the first pic, and the black on in the third for?

I had one plugged into the coolant temp sensor, i believe the one you mean, without that extra white connector. When i took those pics I took pics of all the wires i was unsure about, but I always ran that one in the coolant sensor because i knew one had to go there.

Now im worried about the one with the white plug (pic 2) and the 4 small white ones (pic 1)

the coolant temp wire coming from the CDI should be Black and Brown. The one in pic 3 looks like that wire, it must be plugged into the coolant temp sensor. I've never seen one quite that long but your coolant temp wire must be plugged into the correct wire.

i am sure of the Black and Brown wire being water temp.

Your symptoms sound like EV actuation problems. Kinda.

I Re checked the pic I had to save it and zoom in

In pic 3 what color wires are in your left hand???

Looks to me like black and brown, but I cant remember for sure.

If it's black and brown it must be plugged into the coolant sensor.

Are you not near the sled tonight??

No, Im in MT and the sled is in MN. I wont be able to test until Dec, if we get snow there. Do you know where the other wires in the other pictures go?

i would if they are better pictures a little closer up but I think Bobby got it right when he called the single round one the CDI ground wire and the other one with 2 wires and a plug should plug into the main harness for some of the chassis accessories.

If i could see the color of the wires i could tell you exactly where they go.

If your not sure were the coolant temp sensor is, Its directly under the thermostat on the underside of the head. just thought I'd throw that out there. I just figured it out my self yesterday. on the 600 its on top of the head.

Ok. From the sounds of it, i have it hooked up right, except there is definately no spots for the 4 small ones. I bet they are for a computer plug in or something, who knows. Diagnostics or something.

When I get to the sled, ill double check the colors. Then I can dink with the ves too.

Any way this could be a fuel starvation deal. Like the carb bowl wont stay full at high RPMs because of needle/float or fuel pump/hose issues?

bustedlimb

There is lots of good info here on HCS. We should be able to help you get your issues figured out.

When you get close to the sled do you have access to a computer?? If so that would be a good time to discuss your issues again.

Not really, it seems like your coolant wire is not hooked up. This is definately a problem that will act similar to what you have going on.

If you are talking the 4 white plugs in your first picture those are definately for the EV solenoids. Two hook up at a time and two stay unhooked. It depends on which EV springs you are using as to which wires are supposed to be hooked up. When you get back to the sled tell us the colors of those white plug ins and we will tell you which ones go together. If you have these crossed up the EV's won't actuate properly and this could also cause your symptoms.

Fuel is a possibility but normally lean runs like a striped ape till just before it blows up

Also Check your pulse/vacume line form the crank case to the fuel pump, check for small rips or holes, sometimes there hard to see. A good heavy duty hose to replace it with is a automotive fuel line ment for EFI. it has more braiding and is raited for higher psi, its tuff stuff.

If you correct the wiring and you still have the problem, the coolant sensor could be bad. It has happened to me twice on a ProX 700 and a Pro X 800. the motor acts like it is overheat mode and hits a wall at about 6500. Thanks, Craig

I went and picked his sled up on friday and took a look at it today (Sat.). I checked the wiring and every thing looked good.

I got it running cause the head was off. It smoked realy bad but I didn't think any thing of it.

It will hit a bout 7000 then it choked out. so I checked the feul pressure I had 3-4 psi before the pump and 8psi after the pump.

For the heck of it I disconected the ves and looped them together and still no better. Then I took the springs out, no better yet.

I took it across the yard and it felt like it was still starving for feul so I went throught the carbs and bent the tab on the floats a little to try and give it some more fuel in the bowl. (it has 360 mains in it. our 04 has 400 so it should be fine for now). This didn't seem to help or effect any thing.

Then I checked the plugs after running it on the stand and they were soaked in oil.

I noticed oil running down the head (the plugs were a little loose) so I checked the oil pump and it apears to be set rite, but there is a slight kink in the cable. So I diconected the oil lines from the carbs and plugged them.

Then I took the tank of my 04 XR that had premix in it. I changed the plugs and started it and it cleared out preatygood and ran good.
My Only question to any body reading this is, Is there any way that oil pump could be giving to much oil if it is set rite? this marks are alighned! I just have never ran into this problem before and wouldn't think this could happen.

I also think this could be why he ma have burned down it the past. Because of to rich of an oil mixture leaned out the fuel/air mixture and made it run lean and burn down.

Is there any way to check whether or not the coolant temperature sensor is working right?

I was also thinking about installing an EGT guage from SLP or HPE or something.