Myself and my buddy have went through two sets of front track idler wheels in less than 1,000 miles. I've heard of other riders with same problem. Any suggestions?
Also, I have severe suspension sag ( to rear sissor stops) without rider weight on sled. I've installed new torsion springs and rebuilt the rear shock twice and still have this problem. Could it be the front track shock? This all came about with approx. 500 miles on the sled.('03 pro x 700)

The suspension on my 600 Pro X sags a bit but seems to go away once i start ridding it. My buddies 800 Pro X sags really bad, when we were out last weekend and stopped on the trail it looked like it only had a couple of inches of travel left.
I can remember someone writing into one of the sled mags about this and they made it sound like it wasnt a big issue. If i can find the magazine i will check what they said about it.

The prox skid should have more sag than the regular edge chassis without anyone on it. They do not spring back up to full height. If you feel it is excessive, the front track shock being weak will cause this, more so than the rear one.

December 2003 issue of Snowtech. Page 28, very bottom of the right hand column.

The few inches of "float" is an intrinsic part of the suspension design. It appears to worsen after several miles on the trail. Ice and snow build up under the tunnel and weights the rear of the sled. Nothing to worry about. Only time to be concerned is when the ride quality begins to deteriorate.

I'm assuming you're referring the the inner idler wheels. Yes, they've been a problem on studded sleds. Polaris downsized the wheels during model year "03. They decreased from 5.6" to 5.4". That was supposed to eliminate the problem. All it did was prolong the inevitable. The only real cure is to either use a stud pattern which doesn't cross under the wheels, or cut the wheels down to 5.10" on a lathe.

I have a post on here about a month or so about the boagie wheels also. I've already replaced them twice this year. And it's at the dealer right now. Luckily they have been covering them under waranty. Thought it's a pain to get to those wheels you have to take alot of the suspension apart. Not sure if they found the problem or not. Alls I know is when I called sat. to see whats going on with the sled they said they were waiting on parts. This time instead of doing it myself I figured I would let them do it and see if they can figure out whats causing it. One set this year I rode in perfect conditions checked the wheels after 2 days of riding around 400 miles and the rubber was already coming off. Finished the trip about 700 miles one wheel the rubber was completly gone the other had about 3-4 " off.

Steve look for the topic having problems with boagie wheels. Also the pro x suspension has that sag or free play in it. Thats how they all are.

Thank-you Needsnow you saved me from flipping through some mags looking for that!!

Do you know if chaging the front/rear shock preload ( ie more preload) will help the sag issue...........I've got the same problem with my 01 800 xc

Thanks everyone for the info. I am going to replace the wheels this weekend with some "Guranteed for life" wheels from SHADETREE.If they fail, I'll turn the next set down on a lathe. Also going to rebuild front shock. I'll let everyone know how it works!

After reading this post I checked the inner idlers on my 03 pro-x 6 and sure enough one was chunked and the other worn down to the plastic wheel. I have 2300 miles. I have 96 studs in the center. I'm out of warranty so I ordered 2 wheels for 35.00ea. I've never had wheels wear like this on my older sleds(99700xcsp),(97600xc). How important are these idlers? looks like a pain to remove and install.

I have no studs(gasp!) and no problems with the idler wheels.As far as sag goes, I THINK that may have more to do with where the sled is sitting.When I'm parked outside in the snow, there is more pressure in the front arm of the skid and that intern slacks up the rear arm and gives the impression of the rear being saggy.When I park in the shop on a hard level floor I can pull up on the rear bumper and it will stay right up there.The exeption being when it has 100lbs of slush and ice packed in the tunnel after a good ride.Either way, I don't think it's anything to be concerned about and the last thing I'd do is get stiffer springs for a Pro X.

HEY RS27, I ORDERED MY SECOND SET OF WHEELS FROM POLARIS AND THEY ONLY LASTED APPROX. 450 MILES. I JUST RECEIVED MY THIRD SET OF WHEELS FROM SHADETREE, PART # 04-06, YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE 5/8 I.D. BUSHINGS FROM THE BEARINGS (6205 NTN'S). THESE WHEELS LOOK STRONGER.WHEELS HAVE KIMPEX STICKER ON THEM WITH SOUCY AS MANUFACTURER.YOU HAVE TO DROP THE SKID FRAME OUT AND SPLIT THE SLIDE RAILS APART TO CHANGE THE WHEELS. ALSO, YOU HAVE TO PRESS OUT YOUR OLD ALUMINUM SPACERS FROM OLD WHEELS AND PRESS THEM BACK INTO NEW ONES. MY SPEEDOMETER QUIT LAST WEEKEND--- DRIVESHAFT BEARING ON SPEEDO SIDE IS WASTED AND SO IS BEARING SURFACE ON SHAFT! (1,020 TOTAL MILES! -ALWAYS GREASED)NEW SHAFT TIME$$$$

Pro X Steve,
I had the same exact thing happen on my 2003 Edge X 800. I lost my speedo and found that my driveshaft bearing had blown apart. I checked out the driveshaft and it had a small groove worn in it from rubbing on the outer race of the bad bearing. I got lucky and found that it didn't cause any ridge so I just put the new bearing on it and it seems to be fine now. One thing that I did notice id that the bearing that came out of it is different than the one I got to replace it with. the new one is the same exact bearing that came off an older sled (can't remember which model) but I'm wondering if Polaris tried using some junk bearings for production last year?