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IAPro-X
Ive got a question about the alignment specs... The instructions that came with the bar I bought from SLP says that there should be .040" gap at the front. Poo says .060"-.120" if I remember correctly... Which one is correct? The best I can get is .060" with out die grinding the slots in the motor straps, and don't really wanna do that.

Also, while I'm at it, do you think that I would benefit from a torque arm on the clutch side front of the engine. There is a perfect spot to add one. The chassis has a hole there and the motor has a couple - I could very easily make a bracket with a couple of heim joints. All it has right now is a stopper on the backside of the motor (clutch side).
XCR1250
QUOTE(IAPro-X @ Oct 20 2007, 09:10 AM) *
Ive got a question about the alignment specs... The instructions that came with the bar I bought from SLP says that there should be .040" gap at the front. Poo says .060"-.120" if I remember correctly... Which one is correct? The best I can get is .060" with out die grinding the slots in the motor straps, and don't really wanna do that.

Also, while I'm at it, do you think that I would benefit from a torque arm on the clutch side front of the engine. There is a perfect spot to add one. The chassis has a hole there and the motor has a couple - I could very easily make a bracket with a couple of heim joints. All it has right now is a stopper on the backside of the motor (clutch side).


If it's the bar which fits behind the secondary, it should have up to .060" on the left back side while facing the clutch. If you have a 440 you probably don't need a torque arm. Note on new machines up to .125" gap is acceptable.

Don
Gen2
I've found that if you just loosen the 3 or 4 nuts that attach the chaincase to the tunnel, and then push or pull , forward or backwards, on the top of it, like on the brake calipor,you can make a change in your secondary clutch alignment angle. i was surprised at how much it moves.
XCR1250
Yes, that can work, the recommended way to mount the chaincase is to use the jackshaft alignment tool, and then place shims on the chaincase mounting bolts between the bulkhead and case as needed, (if any at all). Tool number #2871535

Don
IAPro-X
QUOTE(Gen2 @ Oct 20 2007, 10:32 PM) *
I've found that if you just loosen the 3 or 4 nuts that attach the chaincase to the tunnel, and then push or pull , forward or backwards, on the top of it, like on the brake calipor,you can make a change in your secondary clutch alignment angle. i was surprised at how much it moves.

I never even considered that... Thanks for the idea!

QUOTE(XCR1250 @ Oct 21 2007, 08:17 AM) *
Yes, that can work, the recommended way to mount the chaincase is to use the jackshaft alignment tool, and then place shims on the chaincase mounting bolts between the bulkhead and case as needed, (if any at all). Tool number #2871535

Don

I think that he is talking about rolling it forward/backward to change the secondary's relationship to the primary.
XCR1250
QUOTE(IAPro-X @ Oct 21 2007, 11:09 AM) *
I never even considered that... Thanks for the idea!
I think that he is talking about rolling it forward/backward to change the secondary's relationship to the primary.


I knew what he meant,--- fact is doing that may off-center the jackshaft at the bearing flange behind the secondary, it's why the jackshaft alignment tool is used, it centers the jackshaft in the center of the bearing flange in relation to the chaincase, the flange is bolted tight to the bulk head, moving the chaincase back or forth MAY put pressure on the jackshaft by bending it a couple thousands at the clutch side bearing flanges, resulting in premature bearing failure.

Don
IAPro-X
Isn't that bearing (jackshaft) just a movable one that is clamped in between two flangettes???
IAPro-X
^^^^^^^^^^^
Never mind, I get it....
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