Thought some would like to see were I'm at, nothing to fancy I'm just a working man, thanks. This is were I cut 3" off the head pipe to make it clear the steering stem. Rattle paint can for now, what can I say.

This is were the pipe will almost be at. I have only 1/2 of it wrap up now, dam I went thur 50' of 1" wrap and only got 1/2 the pipe done, O-well.

Just an over all picture, lot of work to do.. Thanks for your help, could not do it without you.

that will be the 4-wheeled equivalent to a CR500...

There was a Polaris quad at the ice drags here a few years ago which had a triple Thundercat motor in it, with screws in the tires, it was quite fast.

Don

I'm not a pipe builder but doesn't cutting off 3" change things drastically?? Will chilly have problems with the return pulse being too hot/cold or too fast/slow?? Will it make trying to tune it a nightmare? I'm curious in this as well, I know I have heard that for optimal performance the first 12" of pipe should be fairly straight, is that true?

That's a great project you've got going there. I would look into having a carbon fiber cover made for the side of that pipe, you'll be able to put your hand right on it when the pipe is hot.

ProXR I hope 3" wont make to big of a differents, but I dont know myself. Kind of hoping someone else might chime in.

Also I was needing a main harness and regulator for this machine, maybe someone has one for sale. I think from 2003-2005 will work but not sure.

Thanks

I no expert on it either, but I've heard of 1/2" to 1" cut out of that area, to gain top HP for short drags, and running for longer distances would burn down. I would think 3" will cause a problem. I am not a pipe maker, but have seen angled cuts made to get pipes to fit. Cut at angle, rotate and reweld. Looks like a fun project, and the power should be crazy, compared to 36 HP a stock 400 2 stroke had.

shorter pipe will increase operating rpm for the pipe, I suspect 3" shortening is more than enough to put the pipe peak above what the engine is capable to in stock form.

edit: making the pipe tighter in the exit area will make it heat up and make HP faster - suitable for shorter drags.

Thats looks awsome! It looks like it will be alot of fun.

updte with pics once in a while I have thought of trying this. Will there be room for your feet or will you have to reach to put your leg outside of the clutch?

Well I was getting a little scared, so I called up a pipe builder I know. She ask me on the OD that I had from the OD that the pipe started with, well it is only 1/4" differents. Thats on this pipe only, and as long as I dont cut the pipe any were else Ill be ok., WHEW.

But thanks you guys.

I was told that the head ( Y ) is already 12" both together and that's why the pipe opens up so fast.

Head ( Y )

Need more help tho, which is which ? Num 1 is and num 2 is ? As if your sitting on the machine, which plug wire goes were. Yea I know it sounds simple but the manual not so great on this part. Short wire goes ? Long wire goes ? Or does it matter.

Here's a picture of the pipe, has 50' of wrap on it already I'll need 50' more I quess. O-well.

LOL: I guess Ill see when or how many pictures you can post till I run out of room. Well anyways this is what I got done today, mounted the cdi,fuel pump,timing nob,ect.

Pod filters. I know!!!! OH by the way, how can you tell which carb goes on which side, I know sounds dumb. But the manual suxs on this part.

That thing is going to RIP.. thats for sure. Front tires will just be in the air all the time unless your braking! LOL

Thats sweet man!! but i think that gearcase is going to get torn to shreads!! I've seen plenty of them explode with the stock motor.

Chilly... the carbs are the same for both sides and the cables should be equal lengths. As far as the ignition plug wires I'm not sure, on my sled the cdi is closer to the mag side of the motor and the short wire goes to the mag side plug, I'm assuming the IQ is the same, anyone with an IQ should be able to verify this for you.

I'm also assuming your planning on running 110oct. premix correct??

If that motor is all stock you should really put an oil pump on it or it won't last more than a few hundred miles. I don't know if you are aware of the lack of oiling to the center crank bearing and water pump gear but it's basically a design flaw that needs to be fixed or you have to oil inject it.

How is the quad going to be used?? Trails, sand pits, drag races?? The more info you give will help with the advice given so you don't run into reliability probles.

Keep up the good work!!

First thanks for the input and help.

SnowRacerX Posted Yesterday, 06:11 PM
Thats sweet man!! but i think that gearcase is going to get torn to shreads!! I've seen plenty of them explode with the stock motor.

I'll have to see how long it will last, I don't plan on doing any jumping on this machine at all. So I'll be keeping the over revs down, HPD has a few 120hp machines so I hope my will last for a bit.

ProXR 440 I'm also assuming your planning on running 110oct. premix correct??

Na I'm going to run the lower com head on this, Thanks also to jmorlock for saleing me one. Looks almost brand new, I just ride on some fire roads is all and will be taking it to the dunes 2 or 3 times a year. I be doing a little hill shooting but just for fun I have a few other machines that would be able to take more abuse than this one.


On the oil pump, sure a lot of good info on this forum about it. I'll be doing the 440 case mod on it, sounds like its been working well for some. I'll be greasing the zerk on the drive side with isoflex nbu-52, just a little at a time so I don't blow the seal. This is what polaris uses on it, so I'm told anyway. Cost a little over $100.00 for a 14oz tube of it.

Thanks for your help maybe someone will chime in on the plug wires still.

a twin with a single coil will fire plug wires each time. (so called 'wasted spark') , so it doesn't matter which goes where

I hope you don't run into any surprises in there when you split the cases. Once your in there you'll see why the center doesn't get enough oil. If the gears have any discoloration to them I wouldn't trust the bearings to last very long at all.

I would recomend putting an oil line banjo fitting at the pto end while you have the cases apart and just grease it up good with the isoflex while your in there, supposedly it's good for a couple thousand miles, and at least that way you would be able to oil inject it in the future if you wanted to.

This is a VERY strong reliable motor and you shouldn't having any problems riding the snot out of it as long as you take care of the oiling issue and your pipe mod doens't F*@K things up.

If you really don't want to oil inject it you could always put an oil drip line in for the center, just mount a small container to hold oil and run the oil line, the vaccum from the case will draw in a small amount of oil, doing this along with the case mod should make it live.

http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/inde...howtopic=265958
This is just a link form the impulse ? I ask about, just trying to keep it all in one place. I hope that this is the only thread that I need to keep alive. Thanks all.

ProXR 440 Posted Today, 10:56 AM
I hope you don't run into any surprises in there when you split the cases. Once your in there you'll see why the center doesn't get enough oil. If the gears have any discoloration to them I wouldn't trust the bearings to last very long at all.

It's a brand new motor so for discoloration it should be fine.

If you really don't want to oil inject it you could always put an oil drip line in for the center, just mount a small container to hold oil and run the oil line, the vaccum from the case will draw in a small amount of oil, doing this along with the case mod should make it live.

ProXR: This sounds like a great idea, do you have any idea on how much oil it would draw in. Or have you tried it yet not sure on the vaccum of this motor yet but if the oil was an injection type it should help out a little.

Thanks.

John 800: updte with pics once in a while I have thought of trying this. Will there be room for your feet or will you have to reach to put your leg outside of the clutch?

Na I did'nt forget your ? also. But on the room for your feet on the clutch side, there's plenty of room. The motor right now has a 13.5" c to c and the stock scrambler has 10" c to c. So I have more than enough leg room on the clutch side, now on the brake side (right rear brake) that's a different story.

Thanks

I'm not positive how much it would dra in. I was told about this mod by the guy that was doing my machine work to make my '02 440 lower end work with my 660 top end. My '04 lower locked up before I could do the mod. He made it sound like it sucks almost the same amount as if it was injected and that he sets up all of his drag sleds like that.

I guess on the container size find one that fits the quad and ask yourself how often you want to fill it! I would guess that 6-12 ounces should be enough to last a few tanks of gas.

Speaking of gas that motor gets approx. 10 mpg in a sled... how bigs your gas tank??

Wow, CHILLY's on late..... I thought I was the only one without a life and can't sleep!

Well I tried to answer this ? A well 10mins ago.

Huh??

Which belt do you intend to use? The 1065 belt used in the Gen2 twins had a 12.5" c-c, if you want anything longer you might use something from Doo or Cat.

Hi: ivar, the belt I hope to be using is Polaris 321107 it has a 28 degree and 47.250" long. This belt is set up for a 12" c to c least this is what my book said, I'm using the stock driven off the scrambler. So it has a smaller OD than the 440 did, I just shim the driven out a bit to fit the wight of this belt. This was how I was told to do it from some of the other builders that have done it, but they use 700 or 800 motors in their builds.

Hi Chilly,

I own a 99 500 scrambler 4x4, I've heard about people changing the transfercase lower mounting bracket to 02 model or something like that due to them breaking cases.

Hope this helps

L8R

Mike