My Pro-X currently has a button clutch on it(previous owner put the TEAM clutch on his RMK). I am going to be using a TEAM clutch this winter because I bought a PERC kit for my sled. Do I need the TEAM alignment tool or can I use my button clutch alignment tool? I wouldn't think the alignment would be any different, or is it?

Thanks

You will need a different bar,-- part # "PS 46998"-- it's a Polaris tool, although some dealers don't sell it, when you talk to them tell 'em it's an SPX tool, they will understand.
Don

SLP makes one specifically for the Team. It's about a 1/3 of the cost of the Polaris tool. It works great.

That's $17, pretty cheap.

Don

Just picked up a used Team converter for an RX-1. Instructions simply state that for most sleds to first align stock converter, then install Team. Won't need any other aligning thereafter.

Why would a special tool be required? Just curious.

That seems to work most of the time, however I tried it with my own button and Team clutches, using the new Polaris tool, the team was off .040". It's actually not a special tool, but rather the new recommended tool from Polaris SPX.---- I have since sold the team though.
What I like about the new tool is it fits on the face of the primary, self aligning on the face, doesn't hook behind the primary like the old tool, so it works on clutches with the starter ring gear, it also can be used on the button clutches to more accurately align them as it measures to the outboard sheave on the secondary, instead of behind the inboard sheave.

Don

The Polaris tool is is over $120.00. The SLP tool is $22.00. And it works just as good.

Thanks for the explanation Don. I have both types of tools.

However, it seems to me that you want to align to the backside of the inboard sheave of the secondary so that any belt wear adjustment is accommodated and you can check parallelism both front to rear and top to bottom.
I.E., as you adjust the deflection for belt wear, you are actually misaligning the belt, so the converter has to be moved in a little. BTW, this is one reason why I usually float a typical secondary towards the inside.

When I install a different engine into a particular chassis, (Such as an RX-1 engine into an F-7 Firecat) I use a level to get both the engine and the jackshaft parallel to each other first. Then use an offset alignment tool to recheck at top and bottom of both primary and secondary on their backsides.
All the while maintaining proper center to centers. The final procedure is belt deflection and the final offset adjustment. Always gives excellent belt life as long as engine movement under load is minimal.

Phil

I don't know where you buy your Polaris parts, but the price is $51.21 from Polaris, I have sold several of them and have my own.

Don

New clutch offset & alignment tool.

Dpn

So will the Polaris tool give me a more accurate offset with the TEAM clutch compared to the SLP alignment tool?

No the only difference is the thickness of the material. The SLP is thinner guage.

Back in 2004 I went to my dealer to buy the Polaris Team allignment bar, they quoated me a price of $124.00. I said you have to be joking right? They said no this bar is a heavy duty piece. I asked them to see their to make a template as there is no way I was going to pay that much for a tool I would only use a couple times a season if that. The bar was like 1/2" thick with machined surfaces in the area where it contacts the drive clutch. The SLP bar is demensionally the same except for the thickness. It is also not machined, it's just notched. The SLP version is very similar to the button style bar but the offset is different. I did make a home made one until my SLP bar came UPS.

So Polaris must have redesigned it to make it more affordable. I bet it is the same as the SLP bar now for twice the cost. I would like to do a side by side comparison to see.

This bar has only been available since 2005, it doesn't look much at all like the older aluminum bar, doesn't hook behind the primary, but rather is machined to sit on the sheave with machined " tapered flats" you do not need to hold it in place,--- and it is plated steel.

Don

I haven't used an alignment bar before, just stick everything in there and I started floating my secondary on my X2 700. It self aligns while in use and belts last longer than before.