Has any buddy found a companie that will offer more studs to the xp tracks, Unlike brp studding just in the center. Still looking for a companie that will offer differnet studs than brp kits which are way to high in price for just 90 studs. Over $300. I would like to studd the outside of the track. Brp states the track will fail due the ply in the track. thanks

It's not that the track will fail, it just won't be covered under warranty. Let's be honest, how often do issues come up with tracks that a defect warranty is used? I'm going to start with the recommended 84 down the middle and see if traction is a big issue. If I'm spinning badly I'll add studs down the middle as needed.

If you have the 800 you'll need 144 min.

Have to agree on this one, 84 studs will not be enough for a sled with 150+ HP.

The rule of thumb I've always lived by,is ....1 stud per H.P. ,usually very effective for trail/aggressive trail riding. Under studding can cause problems...bending/breaking of the studs,and/or tearing out of the track. Over studding also has adverse affects, excess rotating mass,loss of top speed,ill handeling (pushing,tipping) and usually is a waste of money. Not sure what the best patterns/number of studs will be on the 120" track....... time will tell.

96 is just enough for a 600, dropping it to 84 will be pushing the capabilities of the track more than throwing a 2-3-2-3-2-3 pattern on the track bring it to a total of 105 studs. I I were running a studded track that;s what I would do, 105 down the middle. I opted for the Ice-Ripper XT though, no stud pulling, almost identical performance as a 84(formerly 96) stud combo on hardpack, and better performance in loose snow, higher top-end, better gas mileage. Basically the only downside is on ice.


I had a 380f with 48 studs, we figured 96 was overkill. The under-studding caused 24 of the studs to pull out in 2 seasons, we just removed the last 24 and ran it stud-less from that point out because the 204 were just going to pull out one by one faster and faster.

I did 147, 105 - 1.450" down the middle and 42 - 1.325" on the outer belts...

Click to view attachment

What brand/style studs did you use?

Woody's Signature series stainless... with woody's tall nuts and round aluminum backers...

It's nice to see they finally have good sized cutouts on the back of the tunnel to slide in thicker tunnel protectors.

looks like it should do the job

I agree that 84 is not enough,but i will use 126 down the middle for starters,and if i think it needs more i will add one more per ply for the 147 seen here,with the exception of all mine down the middle,i have lost to many of these newer ripsaw tracks,on yammis from studding the outside,plus using to tall of a stud,best of luck.

I would not stud outside the windows. The studs will definatly pull through with stock XP track. I would go with a 3-2-3-2-3.. patern or a 3-3-3-3 patern

I log between 4500 - 5000 miles per season and have never had a stud pullout of the outer belt. I am very conscious of trail conditions and what is under me when I whack the throttle. I think the majority of stud failures come from pinning it while over rocks, stumps or even while on a roadway.
The reason I like to stud the outer belts is the extra hook up it provides while cornering. I love the "on rails" feeling of a well setup sled...

Bingo. No buddy studs the outside anymore on any sleds or tracks. Look at the snocross sleds... all down the center. And even woodys stud patterns now are all center. The outside ones come out to easy.

Care to prove that Woody's doesn't stud the outside anymore?

Ok, Sorry They still use a few patterns that go on the out side but its not very many on the out side! Pretty much everyone is going to the inside only which 90% of their patterns are. Fresh off their web site.......

Show the folks the 168 and 192 pattern please.

Like I just said, They still use a couple patterns with outside studs,My bad. If you want that many studs you might as well just put 4 or 5 in every center.

We will be studding both our new xp like we always have with 1.75 woody studs and we will be using the x mas tree pattern down the middle and putting studs on the outside every other lug this pattern is a total of 144 studs and hauls ass we used this in our 3 mach z 1000 and the 144 studs in that pattern would not spin free under 170 hp. As for studs pull out way to easy on the outside yes they pull easier but I drove my 600 sdi for three season and never pulled one stud, key is when crossing roads or wooden bridges to take it easy also after every weekend I check my studs and any studs that are bent over or missing the carbide tip I replace, which stops them from tearing out later on.

Biggest problem with stud pull thoughs are being installed too tight causing rubber to be bulged. studs are not even with inside part of the track. they are usually sunken in to much in the rubber.

I have to get in on this one. I sell Camoplast tracks, including the new ones for the XPs. I also sell Woody's and Stud Boy studs.

Both Woody's and Stud Boy make a special studs and backer for the XP/Camoplast single ply tracks. Due to the weight savings these tracks where made single ply and are not supposed to use traditional studs. There are specials studs and backing plated made by both companies. The studs have much wider flat heads, and the backers are much wider as well. The idea is that due to the track being a single ply there is more coverage area needed to reduce the risk of tear outs.

In my Camoplast literature is says: "WARNING: Tracks featuring single ply technology MUST use special support plates and studs that have been specifically designed for this"

I will bet that any single ply track with normal studs will be very prone to tear outs during normal riding.

I can GUARANTEE you that any track that uses traditional studs will NOT be warrantied.

Think about it, do you think Woody's and Stud Boy would bother spending tons of $$$$ on testing, developing, and marketing a new special studs for only one brand of snowmobile if they did not have to???

It is my understanding that Woody's would not sell to the aftermarket for a certain amount of time and only sell through the Doo dealers. I know the Stud Boys are currently available though.

Just passing on what I have heard as an aftermarket dealer. Best of luck guys.

Doug

I'll use 120 woodys pattern if it works on the 120" xp.

100 % accurate. also, never a good idea to stagger outside studs, I see dozens of tracks each year with pull-throughs using a staggered outside pattern, close to zero with in-line outside studs.

Don

So Doug are you saying Camoplast will warranty pull outs if we use the proper Woody studs? Can I get that in writing?

Well spoke to brp today, If you just use the woodys phathom studs that are sold by a brp dealer not a companie that sells woodys like parts unlimited,and is studded in the location that brp says to stud them in, brp will warrenty the track,tunnel, heat exchangers,and anything the stud should happen to destroy on its way out. Now if you use a studboy studs that is made for the the 1ply track and is installed in the per marked holes on the track. THE TRACK HAS NO WARRNETY OR ANYTHING IT DESTROYS. The factory will only give warrenty on the panthom studs sold over the counter at a brp dealer. NO OThER STUDS that are on the market will have warrenty coverage. The factory might call the track back with studs in it to prove they are the right studs. IF not the custermer will pay shipping and other fees. I guess it don't matter if you put 300 studs in or 80 but the wrong kind there is no warrenty. One free gift is giving to custermer when buying studs from brp, A jar of vasoline, enjoy!

I don't have it in writing, but as far as the AFTERMARKET Camoplast tracks (Camoplast makes the stock XP track too, as I'm sure you all know) There is normally a 1 year warranty, studded or not. I had a customer return a Ripsaw with almost 300 stud holes in a homemade pattern with no problems whatsoever. It took a week for them to look it over and decide it was a product defect, and not having to do with the studding, but they took care of it.

I just put a call into my contact at Camoplast, I should have a solid answer for you guys by the end of the day. If not I will dig into it a bit Monday, because to be honest I want to have a 100% answer on that.

We are talking about a specialty track, so things could be different, but I find it hard to believe Camoplast would change their warranty info to "All Camoplast Tracks are warrantied for a year from manufacturer defects in material and workmanship....EXCEPT XP tracks" LOL

Doug

For those that inquired about the stud boy studs for the XP tracks, we now have them in stock. We are still waiting for the 1.187's.

a little update. My distributer tells me that all the Camoplast Ice Tech, High Performance, and Mountain tracks now have a 2-year warranty. He believes the single ply tracks fall under this.

I still have the call into Camoplast, and will not really be sure of anything until I speak to them.

I will keep you updated.

Doug

Not to cause even more of a dispute but when i went to get my tnt the dealer said that skidoo would only warranty it if the track had 91 or less studs. that were the special ones built for the xp track, Is that true??

Personnaly I would not want to go much over 100 with the new Xp track. But Im not sure want brp or camoplast will warrant. Still, I relalize you will lose some performance but, its better than having to spent an extra like on $600 on a new track due to pullouts.

if you only go 96 and ride the 800 your studs and track will take a beating. Go onto the Woody's website if you put in the 800 the recommend 168 at the minimum.

Pull thrus are usually caused by too few studs, not too many. When you hit a rock, you want that impact spread out over more than one or two studs.

Under studding a high hp sled is the major case of stud failure and tear out.

were do you guys come up with this shit i ran a 144 studs in my machzx1000sdi and never had one come out i ride with 6 guys that run rev 800x that run 96 studs no problems

most if not all problem come from were people ride how there ride and the type of snow condition and how there stud there track.if you do not race the sled and are just looking for add safety 96 all down the middle will be fine.

I ride with very aggressive and myself included drivers,on the hammer all the time
including road crossings.Woody's recommend lots of studs for high hp.
I have never had a tear out but have bent many.

The most common error when studding is using to few studs.
The idea is to spread the stress over many studs.V-shaped
patterns with the least repetition work best.Studs should cover
as many different lines in the ice as possible.Studs closest to
the slide rails provide the most effectiveness,because the sled
weight is concentrated in this area.

You have a very valid point about studding amounts. A lot depends on how you ride and on what conditions you ride as to how many studs you need. However, the further you get away from the 1 stud per HP ratio, the higher the risk for problems. If you ride your sled like a puppy on perfect trail conditions you may never have a problem with only 96 studs. Most stud manufacturers will always suggest higher numbers of studs for one reason--sales. Really, to put 192 to over 200 studs on any trail sled is a bit overkill. As for me, I always try to put around one stud per HP to cover less than ideal trail conditions and a few friendly drags and jackrabbit starts etc.

On the REV XP(120) the magic warranty number is 84. On the REV(121) the number was 96.

Alot of snowcross racers run The nice big almost 2" studs and run mainly 2 down the center all the way around and they hardly ever pull out and they really ride em hard!

Studding a RevXP....you must use the Woody's Phantom studs of the right size and only place them in the pre-marked locations on the track in order not to void the warranty.