I have searched all 29 pages of Pockets postings... as well as several dozen regular postings and cant seem to find but one set up for the 94 XLT. Can someone give me a good set up for my sled. It would be real nice if someone could give me a set up for my 96 XLT Xtra also..... I really would appreciate any help with this.

I put new N/S in today and it starts much better. I also attempted to sync the carbs and got them pretty damn close but I question what the baseline for the Air jet screw should be set at. Is it 1 turn? and how spot on can I get with a uni-sync? The mag side carb is being kind a pain in the ass....

thanks for any and all help........

Don't use the unisyn to sync the carbs. Do them mechanically, throttle cables first, then idle screws. Set the idle screws all equal turns, air screws to 1 turn I beleive. It should be on the decal under the hood. Throttle cables so you have .030" freeplay gap at the lever to throttle block. All the slides should clear the bores of the carbs at full throttle, should start to move at the same time, and should reach the same point in travel together. I check that by at what point the cutaway clears the bore, it is an easier reference point to see. Oil pump adjusted so that when the slack is taken out of the throttle, the line on the pump arm is slightly advanced past the line on the pump body. Clutch set-up for the 580 depends on if you can get hot seat parts easily, or EPI, polaris. Stock gears for either sled.

Thanks Pockets, will sync the carbs that way. As far as clutch components, I will get anyones, just wanted to mix and match instead of a "kit". I think alot of money is wasted on kits. I read that an AAen Purple primary w/ 10AL 53 in the primary and a Polaris silver with ??? angle helix. Does this sound right? I want to get past the famous bog... maybe engage above the bog....

thanks

I didn't have much luck synching the carbs on my XLT with a uni-sync either. I ended up using a 3/8" drive socket (long, with extension) and had a friend hold the throttle part way open and adjust the carbs until the socket would just slip past the slides. Very accurate if you take your time.

The set-up you quoted uses a T1 helix ideally, but others will work. SLP 42/36/34 as well. Be sure to use a polaris 3211070, 1042, or 1045 belt, and have the primary clutch belt to sheave clearance set to .020" max with the weights you are going to use. Clutch alignment checked, engine torque stop set tight, no gap. If you can find hot seat weights, in the 580, erlandson white primary, or hot seat black, hot seat X or W hypershift weights, hot seat white secondary spring, and a R8, or hot seat HSP34 helix, #2 hole. You can use the same set-up in the 96. With both look at reventing the carbs as the newer sleds are.

I had a buddy do a clutch improvement on my 94 xlt...polaris blue spring and oem weights in the primary...slp black ice 42-34 helix..slp black secondary spring..2nd hole with 21-39 gears and 96 studs. Was one of the best trail sleds ever owned.

As Too Slow also mentioned, you can improve on the stock set-up with a couple changes. It depends on how much you want to spend. You can even get away with just a primary spring and a helix change.

Sounds like the setup that I got from Pockets last year. I have been very happy with the way it cleaned up the acceleration. It comes in around 48-4900 rpm. Above the bog. Didn't affect the top end or mid range speeds. I hunted for a T-1 at the time and couldn't get one. Next up, edge skid, fox shocks!!

Mac

Much of those bog problems can be very much limited by tighting up the belt clearance in the primary sheaves to around .010''-.020'' when a new belt is used. Seems polaris could do a better job but they don't. Those piston port motors don't have a whole lot of low end torque to begin with so they can use help from where ever they can get it.

How do you do that? Shim the drive clutch I mean... I've many drivens apart a thousand times but never the Drive, or Primary, apart.... could you give me some instruction. I know how they come apart. (big breaker bar and heat:)


thanks