Anybody try hygears air control system for fox floats yet?If so feedback please.

Hey, anybody have any thoughts on the Hygear "air control system" for Floats?

http://www.hygearsuspension.com/arctic_cat.html

How about these Nextech reservoirs?

http://www.carbonsled.com/float_reservoir.htm

I'm not sure I'm a big fan of floats yet; seems to me that the travel of the floats is quite limited (they get too stiff too fast). Run them too low & ski pressure has to get messed up. I'm not real impressed with the ride quality on rough trails. The air control system sounds like a great idea to get more useable travel out of them. I'm debating wether I should try this or just get a set of conventional shocks. Somehow I ended up with two sleds with floats on them (price was right, long story) so now I suppose I have two sleds that need "fixing" in the front shock department. I'm experimenting with my CF7 first, then on to the F6 if it needs it (snow will be necessary for this decision, haven't ridden it yet).

All thoughs would be appreciated!

interesting idea.

carbonsled mount looks cleaner than the hygear but hard to tell from photo.

i've been pretty happy with the floats on my sled

check out the carbon fiber rail system

Yeah, how cool is that?

I would imagine many people are perfectly happy with their floats as-is; not looking to "start" anything. Riding style and conditions mean everything. Just looking for a more compliant ride on rough trails. Heck, the suspension on my ancient '02 ZR standard seems more compliant and rides significantly better on rough trails; it uses most of it's travel on a regular basis and seldom / if ever bottoms out. Shoulda bought a CF standard but all the "reports' said SP was similar to standard in ride quality (perhaps it is). Anyway, since two companies have come out with this as a retrofit, and I believe the newer (high $) Fox floats have similar technology, I must not be the only one who feels this way about the floats?

Another $399 for this??????

I have both a CF standard & CF SP. I can tell you that the standard handles much better and I think It's due to the front shocks. If I can't get the fox flotes dialed in this winter I might put standard front shocks on the SP.

Thank you. My thoughts exactly. Makes you wonder if you are throwing good money after bad, or if you should just get "standard" (ACT or ?) shocks. I suppose standard shocks would need to be re-valved and/or get stiffer springs due to the stiffer rear springs & valving...

My first experience with a Crossfire was on a standard that a dealer had as a demo. I couldn't believe how good it rode and handled on a beat-up trail that was right next to his shop; it was amazing. After hearing all about the bent tunnels being primarily on standard models, and how great the floats are, I decided to buy a SP. So far it seems to me that the ride of the SP is NOTHING like the standard I had ridden as a demo. I thought maybe that was my imagination, so I really appreciate hearing this from an owner of both.

Hey guys, cool topic, I too have puttered around with shocks enough to be dangerous. I really like the sno pro shocks I installed on my F7 standard, but i have not ridden a sled with floats. instead I have been in the process of re valveing my std shocks to Sno pro-like valving. Perhaps this is a better idea?????. My sales guys whom I trust stated that the floats have a more "progressive" effect than regular shocks. I have considered floats for my new CF7, but instead am in the process of revalving my std shocks- probably for a lot cheaper, so I have springs??so what??

from the sounds of some comments perhaps they may performa better?? even if they are n't the latest and greatest??

I would like to hear from someone with in depth expertise. klr




Thank you. My thoughts exactly. Makes you wonder if you are throwing good money after bad, or if you should just get "standard" (ACT or ?) shocks. I suppose standard shocks would need to be re-valved and/or get stiffer springs due to the stiffer rear springs & valving...

My first experience with a Crossfire was on a standard that a dealer had as a demo. I couldn't believe how good it rode and handled on a beat-up trail that was right next to his shop; it was amazing. After hearing all about the bent tunnels being primarily on standard models, and how great the floats are, I decided to buy a SP. So far it seems to me that the ride of the SP is NOTHING like the standard I had ridden as a demo. I thought maybe that was my imagination, so I really appreciate hearing this from an owner of both.
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If either of you guys want to trade your floats for a pair of Zero Pro's off an '04 F7 SP, let me know first!

I purchased the carbon tech add on reservoirs,$300.00 bones.They say this should help in the trail stuttered bumped trails,more linear.Revalve standard I beleive makes a better trail sled.

This is a good topic. I'm a pretty light guy and this is my first time with floats. I did upgrade my rear skid on the 07 to the sno pro specs. I was bottoming out on the long dips. Now I have the floats in front and I'm curious as to the best set up for comfort and keeping it from bottoming out. I'm going to fool around with the air pressure for awhile and see what happens.

Thanks for all the help. I think I'm going to go out on a limb and order the Hygear setup & just see if it helps. Kinda expensive but at least they would fit on either of my SP's, so if I sell one, they would work on the other one. In theory, this should make these shocks much more effective.

Now we just need snow...

I agree with your opinion of the Floats. They are not progressive enough for all around trail riding, IMO. I would much prefer a conventional coil over shock w/remote reservoirs. That is my only real gripe with the sled. Fox Floats are HIGHLY overrated, IMO. Please keep us informed if you go the Hygear route.

at first I disliked the floats, on my 05 F7, but after running that sled, and my CF7SP for quite a few hard miles, I think the floats are truely better than a coil over shock. I started out trying to set the floats up with as much air as possible - big mistake, these things do not bottom out, the air chamber is VERY progressive. I think guys with the float shocks on their sleds should experiment with softer air settings than they would normally consider. for example I am down to 50psi, and the ride height is still at full height, and I REALLY have to TRY to bottom them. with the lower psi they are FANTASTIC in the stutters. I dont think it gets much better than this. bottom out ressistance AND great ride compliance.
my .02

W.F.O. Thank you for that info. With the lower pressure can you get the sled to rail around corners? That is my biggest complaint. The sled seems to roll to the outside while cornering. I've been running about 40-50 psi. Will lower pressure help this issue? I guess we'll just have to wait and see........

Correct I tell all my customers to start @ 40-50 psi and go from there as everyone is different. Alot of guys pump them right up to 70+psi then hate it.

I'm curious about pressure and weight of the rider? I'm pretty light, 165 or so with gear. First thought I'd try about 65psi now I'm thinking about 45. Does that sound about right? I noticed it does not move much at all right now with 65.

Well, I'm 185 before gear, and I am an AGRESSIVE bump/jump rider. If your 165 with gear, you better start at about 45psi.

Drivemhard - it sounds like the sleds body roll is your biggest complaint. If this is true, then you may be a candidate for thees add on air chambers. theese will allow you to run slightly more starting air pressure, but will soften the mid/full stroke. they lower the air compression ratio. the result will be that the sled will stay flatter, but you may loose some of your stutter bump compliance.

I just need to play with the psi more this winter. If I run 90+ psi I will probably not see much roll in the turns but the center of gravity will be too high and ride too stiff. I'm leaning towards trying 25-30 psi to keep the nose down and hopefully be able to rail around corners with out body roll. Bring on the snow!

After running across a 2 year old article in a sled mag. this weekend detailing the design and operation of the floats, I'm going to try lower pressure as well before going to the next step. Apparently they are more sophisticated than they look; they have a spring inside each shock that helps reduce or "counter" the effect of air pressure ramping up the spring rate significantly for the first couple inches of shock travel, supposedly making them very compliant on the smaller stutter bumps (perhaps I wasn't the first person to think of this issue...). I've never gotten down into the 50 lb. range with mine, so I should start by doing that (and maybe even a little lower yet) before complaining too much. I was afraid of loosing ski pressure / handling, but maybe my Razors & shaper bars will still turn with low pressure. Sounds like others have been riding this way without getting a "mushy" front end. That's really good info. to know, thanks again all for your help.

Put on 50 miles yesterday at 40 psi. Still seems to roll to the outside around turns. Guess I'll try 23-30 psi next time out. Anyone have more feedback on this issue? I'm starting to think about sucking up the limiter straps to get more ski pressure..........

Left mine at 48psi for about 600 miles so far and it works pretty good. I pulled the straps about 3/4" and could still use a little more ski pressure. The rear skid bottomed a couple of time but the front never did. I'm impressed with the floats, they do work nice. Comfortable in the stutters and no bottoming in the deep holes.

I agree, pulling your limiter straps up a bit should help your ski pressure issue, but I dont think you'll like lower air pressure than you allready have. but go ahead and try it, as its free.
PS be sure to check float pressure with the skis raised off the ground.

I agree with WFO after riding mine down at 45 PSI for a couple hundred miles. I was very, very impressed as well at how compliant they are during ditch running; much smoother but no bottoming. I think 45 is very close to perfect for that type of riding.

High speed cornering was a different matter entirely, though. There's just too much body roll running them that low. At first I thought I was running on one ski in every corner, until I realized that both skis were still on the ground but I had way too much body roll.

I raised mine to 55 PSI now, for next time out. Hopefully that will be a good medium, or somewhere in that area. I'm starting to appreciate these things; the really nice thing about them is that you can change them easily, whenever you need to. Many of us have very, very different needs; some ditch bang, some ride windy trails at speed, some deep powder; the optimum pressure would be different for each type of riding.

Tightening the limiter straps and loosening the front skid shock spring may help a little overall, but I doubt it would do anything to lessen the body roll condition. More experiementing to do.

I just put mine to 55psi and went for a rip this afternoon (also my front skid shock is pretty loose and I have not touched the straps yet).

Not sure if the snow changed during my ride today but its seemed the longer that I rode and the more aggressive I rode the front shocks seem to be more responsive and the skis seem to stick a lot more in the corners........I assume that the harder you work these shocks the better they get!

Not all Floats have the spring in them. As far as I know the only consumer cats with the spring inside are the F series SPs. I am revalving mine with less compression dampening...I will let you know how they turn out. These have very heavy compression dampening.

I'm a pretty heavy guy, 240ish, the standard shocks just don't cut it. I ride hard and have bottomed them out multiple times. my stock spring is jacked all the way, which may not be wise, but it would force me to buy better shocks. Are floats the way to go?

Here is my setup:
I'm 6'2 and 280 with gear. I prefer to ditchbang/boondock over high speed trails and corners. I run my floats at 55-60(never bottomed), I removed my swaybar(better sidehilling and landings off camber),I removed my coupler blocks(easier to full front end up in powder to get over obstacles),I run my track loose(about 2" of droop),and I had my front skid shock redone by Hy-Gear(Revalved for weight/riding style,replaced Sno-Pro spring with dual stage springs,added anti-bottom bumpers,and heavy duty spring bushing).
The above mods make for a "loose" feeling sled but I have never bottomed the front and rarely bottom the rear. I am approaching 3000 miles on this sled and I haven't bent the tunnel despite my weight and my riding style. I keep planning on doing tunnel supports but haven't gotten around to it. I "believe" that the leading culprit to bent tunnels is running to much preload on the front skid shock which causes "coil bind" which in turn causes shorter travel and an abrupt bottoming of the front skid. This is just my opinion but my results tell me it may be true.

I have a Crossfire 700 SP and I'm 6'4 and weigh about 230 pounds. I jacked my psi up to 70 pounds last ride and have always noticed body roll on my sled. Sounds like I should lower my psi to around 50-60 pounds. Is it true that you should set the psi with the skis off the ground? I have a lift maybe next time I'll do that and lower the psi some. Any recomendations would be great. I mostly do aggressive trail riding in the U.P.

Back from the u.p.,revalve front floats,carbon tech resevoirs,dual rate spring center rear shock.Much better in stutters,never bottoms.Holz setup on rear shocks.Holz revalved fronts more like a evo shock,with reservoirs.

So would you recomend the carbon resevoirs for the front? I may look into these next year. Are they easy to install? What are the overall benefits are you able to run less psi without bottoming? Any insight would be appreciated. Also does carbontech offer the fox float rear conversion on a crossfire or only the m series?

Holz from washington said he has air chambers for 100.00 each shock,his set up for my crossfire worked out to a more well rounded trail,ditchbanger.If your looking for improved ride that doesn't bottom,I would recommend this setup.Carbontech units are a 150.00 each that can be adjusted,not sure if holz are adjustable.

Yes easy to install.Makes the shock more linear,doesn't ramp up as fast.

These damn flotes cost way too much to not work properly IMO.

I found this article in the Dec issue of Snowtech.........

Arctic Cat Improved Sway Bar Design.
The handling of the 2007 Arctic Cat models is nothing short of incredible but AC engineers found there was some binding occurring in the sliding junction between the sway bar and the a-arms. It wouldn't slide as freely as it could, thus some new parts and geometry here. The mount point on the chassis is about 2" further out, and the sliding junction (plastic blocks) have been replaced. The sway bar will move more freely within these redisigned blocks, providing even flatter cornering.

^^^^I'm not sure I understand this. Can anyone comment? Thanks, Jeff.

I believe this pertains to F's only; you can read quite a bit about this in the F section. If I understand correctly, on '07 F's, particularly when you're in a corner and the sway bar is loaded, some have a tendency to bind. This interferes with suspension travel & causes a rough ride. The update kit prevents this, resulting in a much more compliant ride in rough corners.