Is there a trick\special tool to get the nut off the mag side lower control arm on my 04 zr9?...I'm stumped.

Lower A-arm? I'm not a suspension guy but I've had my '03 apart, only sockets and common stuff. What is the problem exactly? Is it the nut inside the tube? I have a set of snappy 1/4" drive sockets, they are real thin and fit in some tight places.

Thats the one it is in the frame and a B@#%h to get at...I guess I'll have to buy some bigger 1\4 inch sockets.

Its been awhile but i think i either took the skid plate off to get to it or the tie rod boot and went in from there.

Have the skid plate, the right belly pan (I'm also changing the track) and the tie rod boot off...there is a small hole cut in the bulk head that was covered by the skid plate, that is the only way I can see to get a socket on the nut.

Thats what I was talking about, I thought you were already there. I used my 1/4" drives and some short wobble or u-joint extensions.
My 2 cents, I have torqued 1/4" drive sockets to over 50 Ft/lbs without snapping them.
Did you get the track out? thats not that bad of a job either. No need to remove the pan for that though?

I think the U-joint extensions will be the ticket...just got the track yesterday from Cat Bargains (Great people to deal with) and I read a post from CAT 900 that it was easer to get at things with the right side belly pan off. Do you know what size socket I will need to for the "big" nut on the brake side?

Curry

quote CAT 900

I'm sure there is more than one way. I just changed mine. By the book...Remove the gear box, remove the twoi allen bolts holding the speedo braket onto the shaft, remove a portion of the right side belly pan, and the shaft will slide towards the clutch side. I like you had a problem. This is why the book tells you to remove the right side belly pan I guess, because I had to use a stick and a two pound sledge and it slide right out. Had to pretty much do the reverse to get it back in.

Sounds like he removed the side pan so that he could hit the shaft to break it loose from the rotor (where they can stick, spray that with some good lube) other than that you do not need to remove the pan, you can loosen the rear screw inside the air intake cover so that the side flexes a bit easier but it is not needed. to fit the Big nut on the brake, that is very tight, you will need the regular AC socket or the AC version from any other outfit. it is not the same as the one used on the new style chassis (ford half-ton hub wrench fits the new chassis perfect, $19 at autozone) but that doesnt help you. The socket you need was about 30 bucks from HPE back when I got it in '04. Or if you are crafty you could weld dowel pins or bolts into a pipe, big nut, or old socket so that they will catch the cutout grooves on the AC nut. Maybe somebody local would loan you one, hows your dealer? You are suppose to buy a new nut when you take that one off. they are prick punched with a chissel at the factory to further lock them to the shaft. If you get stuck, PM me nights.

I'm not very crafty and my dealer should lend me the socket but if not who is HPE? BTW thanks for the help and I'm sure I'll be taking you up on your offer.

High perfomance engineering? - good afternmarket catalog company

Yep. See them at hiperf.com Any parts order place can get the socket, likley about the same price as from your dealer though. Its just a big round half-inch drive hub looking thing. One nut on the front center edge of the gearcase can be tricky to get at. Hold pressure on it with a prybar or screwdriver and hit the bolt with the impact. maybe a 2-3 hour job if you have never swapped any track before. If you are use to the suspension R+R it' much less time consuming. In my opinion the gearcase is easier to work with than the chain case when doing a track. No more bearing flanges.

OK...I got the "Big Nut" and the roter/outside part of the caliper off. The DD nuts are off and the set screw is loose the DD will move but not come off. Should I take off the inside part of the caliper that is bolted on to the bulk head/tunnel or do I have everything that needs to be removed or loosened complete? BTW the lower control arm came of with the U-joint extension...thanks!

You do not touch the caliper. it stays put, just the little aluminum cover comes off, the rotor stays in place too, the shaft slides out of it once the nut is off and the case is removed, all of the case nuts are off? Oh.... oops, the '04s were the only ones to have a lock nut or two jammed together inside the tunnel on the shaft between the the drivers and the gearcase. mine just pulled off..? but I have heard guys ssay you need to lossen them. slide rotor back on, set brake and loosen those up. what did you use on the bug nut? I dont remember a set screw? did you get that front case bolt out, that is nutted on the back?

Set screw is # 10...I borrowed the socket from my dealer.

Is that the updated driveshaft? maybe they are not even different but i know I did not have a set screw in mine. or if I did it slid out without removing it.N ow that I look closer i did have that grease fitting and it was very greasy, maybe the set screw was just not tight enough and it let it come out. other than that maybe just internal rust holding your in? try hitting it some like the guys said, I see nothing that looks like a lock nut on that diagram. thought mine had one inside the tunnel.

Was able to get evreything done.Hardest part was getting the DD off and on because the bulk head was bent a little under the DD.Would have saved myself hours if I would have taken the left belly pan off right away. Once I bent the lip down with vice grips things went back togeather real easy.Thanks for all the help!!