Picked me up a '96 ZRT 600 for $900.Not a bad sled at all.Although this is my first triple and I had to take it around the yard.It was hot today and the sled was a smokin and would go to 5,000 RPM and bog and then take off!I was happy with the quickness.I took my spark plugs out and they're black and wet.It's also been sittin in a trailer for awhile.Theres air bubbles in almost all the lines(coolant and gas) and the coolant looked dirty.My speedometer doesn't work neither and both the speedometer and the tachometer lights don't work.I just don't want to buy any parts I don't need but how do I found out what it is?It starts up first pull and idles perfectly at 1 1/2 RPM though.

I already like it!

If the speedometer doesn't work, that usually means the bearing is out, replace all the bearings on the driveshaft/jackshaft. It's too warm right now to trust your plug colors, but they were way rich from the factory, it comes with 360's, I'd drop down to 340's and work down from there. Pick up a clutch kit for it, it wasn't clutched well, and of course make sure your clutches are in good shape, and aligned. Check the motor mounts as well, they were known to break a lot, take a look at the water pump impeller/seals if you are really wanting to check it out. If you need any parts for it, I've got quite a few sitting at my place in Harrison, I would part with.

That looks pretty clean for 9 bones! Nice score. Tons of potential in that baby six. First mod? PSI Modblaster StageII pipes. You WILL NOT regret it. Start looking on eBay now as prices are cheap and many people are upgrading to "newer" sleds. Lots of help here on these machines.

-Twiggs

Dr Who17 hit the nail on the head as far as the speedo not working (as long as the cable is not broke of course) This is common for the bearings to do this. What happens is when the bearings start to go south on you they lose alignment and the flexible key drive snaps. My 98 Zrt 1050 will make it almost 3500 miles on the nose before the bearings start going bad and thats faithfully greasing them. Depending on how many miles the sled has on it, you may have a o-ring on a head that is leaking combustion by causing the discolored antifreeze. More than likely when this happens though, you are also pressurizing the cooling system and transferring the coolant into the cylinder which will show up on a plug reading which is tough in the summer i know. I would start the sled up, let it run for a while until it warms up some and the thermostat opens and put a cooling system pressure tester on it. See if the system holds pressure and also check to see if it is building pressure while running. If it won't hold pressure, check for obvious extenal leaks ie, heat exchanger, water pump, hose connections etc and if you don't see any pull the plugs and check for sign of antifreeze entry with a flashlight or borescope. If you cant see and don't have a flashlight, pull the pipes off and turn the engine over. As far as the bog, more than likely a clutching, jetting or sync issue in the carbs, make sure the boots are not cracked.

Going to crack into it today.Lucky me it's another 90* day.

Well,took all the coolant out and found out theres alot of sand or dirt on the bottom.Also,the drained coolant looks dirty as you can see in the picture.How do I clean all of that shit out?And seeing that I realized my carbs are probably dirty too,but no idea how to clean those either.Also,Where is the speedo bearing located?

I'm gonna eat and then take the cylinder heads off and check out the rings.

These pistons still good???

The pictures make it look like one of the pistons melted at the edges, too fuzzy to tell for sure.

Is there anybody on this site that can run my vin#???I'm curious.

Painted my pipes.

Can anybody help me out?I'm wondering if this motor mount is broke.It's pushed back a little,feels like it broke,and theres some shavings around there.

hard to tell with the fuzzy pic,but if there is shavings around it something is wrong.pull it and get a better look.probably going to have to replace it anyway cuz you don't want your engine twisting on ya.you will burn up your belts fast or maybe even throw it out of the clutch at speed.

Thanks for the reply.I know there is a rear motor mount that it should be but it's welded on and doesn't look anything like they show in online parts.

It's broke,Anybody know how much it would cost me for the dealer to repair it???I'm pretty sure it broke before and got welded back on.I recently saw that you could get a torque arm for it,but can't find one.Any help?

i had a '96 zrt 600 and i couldnt keep that rear left mount together for the life of me. bitch was always cracking then breaking. had to take the stock one right off and drill holes in the current frame and make a solid mount with it bolted to the frame. then it was good. but the stock mount is shit. thats the only mount i had issues with.

the one thing i regret doing to my old zrt 600 is them Thunder products plastic inserts under the carb slides to make the round slide carbs act like the newer tm flatside carbs. really bitch to get tuned properly and probably washed my cylinders down with how much fuel i was burning initially. my first ride with the inserts i burned a whole tank in 30 miles. once i got the needle, pilot, and main jets all fiqured mid range was night and day difference. low end was shit and top end was the same. JUST DONT FUCK WITH THE CARBS. keep them stock and just make sure they are syncronized.

Did you have to put a support plate under the mount?Thanks for the reply.

i just made a new rear left mount. then bolted the mount to the frame. then i drilled a hole and installed the rubber stop.

Everything is fixed and it's runnin better than ever!