so i bought an 07 air force race sled from Steve Scheuring and putting in a 600 HO. i'm leaning towards running 600mod pipes on a stock motor. If i do what, what kind of gearing, jetting, and clutch set-up should i look at running if i weigh #230 suited up.

another question is what if i am running a single pipe, then what kind of clutching and jetting?


is there anything special i should know about these sleds. its great condition. raced 3 times. only questions i have off hand is what is the slipper gear these sleds have, how does it work?

also, PICS OF WHAT OIL TANK YOU USED AND HOW YOU MOUNTED IT UP.

The slipper gear is setup so when you catch 120' of air and are on the gas when you land, the gear slips instead of snapping your chain. My brother bob has a prefabbed oil tank for sale off his 800 last year that he will sell. Pm him at MBR46

that one question down. now how about some clutching set-ups i will need.

pockets will be able to get you close, give him a PM on the clutching.
im not sure, but i think ive heard that the 600 mod twins dont work well with a non ported engine in stock form. akiqpilot does a mod to your old 440 single pipe so it will work well with your 600 stocker.
oh ya and ditch the slipper gear, you dont need it unless your a pro snow crosser. ive been told the non slippers are lighter too, and rotating mass is a huge factor.
i used a oil tank from us plastics.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.a...cookie%5Ftest=1
just my .02

so is the gear itself slip? so i could take any of the gears i had on my pro x and run them in here and it would make it a non slipper gear? i am planning on doing hillcross and a few snowcross races... and why not run slipper gear?

also i heard that the SLP race pipes are only good for about 4 hp more than a 440 single thats been modded, but pipes like dmaxx and crankshops, larry ruglands will make 8-10 over a single.... i may wait and figure that out still as i want to run headlights....

yes the pro x hyvo gears will work as a replacement for the slipper gear. thats my understanding of the slipper it that the gear itself slips. if your gonna race it might be worth it to keep it, not sure how big you air it out. its only purpose is to keep pro (big air guys) from breaking chains from landing hard on the gas.
ive heard they surve no purpose for the normal guy who rides hard(but not 120 feet of air hard). also was told by a race mechanic that they are heavier than a non slipper gear. and rotating mass slows you down from my limited engineering knoledge.

Keep the slipper gear if it already has it. Tek Lab Racing, where I bought my IQ, said before the gear was out in 2006, some of there riders had incidents of landing of of 40' foot tabletops and having the chain snap. Just keep it, its worth the money you could save by not having to replace your chaincase and everything inside it.

thats what i figured.

so pockets has clutching set-ups for this sled? what gearing would be good for a 600 in it?

has anyone ran twin pipes with headlights? i'm wondering if you cut the plastic under the hood if they could be used then.

who makes bigger tanks for it also? would a 07 IQ 600 trail tank work? or is it a specialty tank made for the sled.

maybe get a 600rr tank?

PM trieditonce he has polaris tanks for it that are 9 gallons i think. 250 bucks shipped

i will have to do that. will the Dmaxx twin pipes the race teams use be able to run headlights? steve scheuring thought it you notch the plastic part under the hood, you would be able to run headlights.....

If you have a custom pipe builder you should be able to run the headlights. I ran with an 800 IQ that had dmax twin race pipes last year that ran the headlight no problem. The pipes ran like shit though on the trails.

really? why didnt they run good? what did they do that made them bad? i was told they were alot better than the SLP race pipes. i can get a set for $375 shipped, the Dmaxx's that is. so i should be able to run headlights with them right off the race sled, or must they be refitted to work. could just the plastic housing underhood have a big corner cut off?

ide just wait till this fall when companies start coming out with pipes for the 600rr. you KNOW those will still run headlights, and then they will have time tune a set of trail pipes for these sleds, without having to port the motors

good point snofevr. i assume crankshop, hot to go, companies like that should have pipes available? if so, when would they have them out?

also does anyone know if changing the stingers on the pipes makes any difference in power? like i had crankshop twins on my pro x, and the stingers are quite a bit larger than race stingers on mod sleds. would i run stingers from a mod sled on crankshop pipes?

but i'm just curious why the dmaxx race pipes didnt work well on your sled.

propably dont work well on his sled because the pipes are tuned for the race motor. not tuned for a trail motor. thats y i am saying, wait for a set of pipes to come out for the trail motor. and if slp comes out with a set of pipes and a can for the pipes, just use the can for the pipes. sometimes just open silencers dont create enough back pressure, and that makes them lose power

They didn't work well due to what 083 was saying. They were made for a race setup. Just like the slp race twins they are setup to run hot, hot, hot which you are not getting on the trails. I had a set of slp race twins for my xr and they ran poorly till about 7300 rpm then they opened up when they got really hot but by that time everyone was gone even though I had flannery porting and cut hsp heads. I too then switched to the CS and they ran great. The dmax pipes that mbr46 ran had a very constricted stinger(the stinger is not the "can" portion that runs out the belly pan but it is the portion of the pipe that constricts downward toward the actual "cans". He had flannery make him 2 x 4" jaws cans for the dmax twins. The original cans were obnoxiously loud, almost straight pipes. He is now dropping a 1200wc triple in that IQ so he won't have to worry. I know that slp is making a single only and most places I call said they could make a set of twins but they need your sled. I am getting castings from ubr for the 900 and am having flannery cut and weld them to fit with my headlight. I may have to cut the support on the mag side and relocate it down a bit but I am not jumping over any houses that I know of.

alright. that clears it up. someone on snowest has a set fo crankshop race twins that have been modded for a trail motor. i assume the stinger were made smaller?

i hope some companies will make twins for this sled.

i can get Dmaxx race pipes for $350.....worth giving a shot or will they forsure run like shit?

also i pm'd your brother about that oil tank and no response....

CS? Did the dmax pipes work well for mbr46 after he put 2 x 4" jaws cans on? Was it still obnoxiously loud? These where dmax race version correct? Any other problems you (MBR44) or mbr46 ran into when putting an 800/bigblock in your IQ's with twins? Any pics?
Thanks, IQ797

They never seemed to work well and they are race version. I think that he had some other issues going on as well. We had the same flannery 800bb and I walked all over him with my XR. They were about as loud as my CS, I wore ear plugs. The fit and finish of the dmax pipes were great. If you are working with dmax for a set then just tell them you want them for a trail setup. They have the hard part of fitting them with the headlight done, they just need to make the stinger not so constricted so it will be trail acceptable. We had no other problems fitting them in, he had a great setup. I am running brads plate so my fit will be alittle diff but better. The bb just drops in with 6 motor mounts I should not get much flex, just cut the lower support to fit the recoil housing an bam, done. I am running premix with my lectrons so I can't run oil inject anyway.

MBR will you have your bro shoot me a PM on that oil tank and for what price?

anyone know the polaris part number for the 600rr tank?