I plan to drop the suspension on my 03 ZR900 to paint all the black components that are starting to show a little rust.

What is the best way to drop the suspension? I always have the hardest time removing the darn springs to decrease the pressure on the suspension to colapse it.

I have a winch that I use to lift the track off the ground.

I don't plan on removing the track........

I didnt remove any spring tension when I took mine out last weekend. Had it up on lift with a jack under track, took out rear bolts, took off nuts on the front. Dropped sled down, turned on side, took front bolts out, then remove rear suspension. Link to suspension removal That is a link at arcticchat that shows a few different ways of doing it. Hope it helps

Speed, what nuts on the front are you mentioning as it sounds like you removed those prior to the main front bolts?

Guessing you removed some tension from the track as well?

On the ground remove left side front and rear skid/tunnel bolts.
Roll sled onto it's left side.
Remove right side front and rear skid bolts.
swing rear our skid out of tunnel.
Lift skid frame out of track.

5 minutes tops.

Buddy has a sled lift but finds it much easier to remove, and especially re-install the skid on the ground. One man operation this way.

Good Luck!

And maybe even easier since my engine is out now so it will be light. Just need to make sure my carbs aren't bouncing around while putting on its side. Do you loosen the tension on the track and the torsion springs first?

There are four bolts that hold the suspension in, the front two have nuts, the back two thread into the idler wheel arm. So the nuts up from I removed but not the bolts. But muskoka800 sounds like it might be easier. I didnt remove any track tension. Once you put the sled on its side, and then once you remove all the bolts, swivel the rear suspension out as far as you can and I just lifted the suspension out. Did it by myself and I am a little guy. Hardest part was tipping the sled on its side. It kept sliding across the cement...lol. Let us know how it goes. Its easy once you do it, last weekend was the first time I ever removed a rear suspension. BTW... he is also right that it is much easier to deal with it all on the ground, it made things much more difficult up in the air. Keep it on the ground and this had become a much simpler process..!!!

loosen the track as loose as it can go....take the weight off of the suspension, take the 4 bolts out, lift the arse of the sled a few feet and pull out the suspension....like stated above....5-10 minutes tops....

If you dont take the spring tension off or strap the rear arm down. When taking the rear bolts out the last few threads the bolt will . maybee messing it or the insert threads up a bit

Exactly as suggest (pretty sure I'm the buddy........LOL)

EASIEST way goes for all sleds be it cat/yam/Doo/poo

Been there done that

Of course loose the tension of the track before

To make installation easier cut a slot in the top of both spring retainers / blocks. This will allow you to release spring tension which makes aligning up the bolts a snap.

Thats what I am worried about, when I get my suspension back is putting it back in with tension on it.....

So slot the blocks as suggested so you can install with the springs released..............works mint / makes skid install about 12 minutes start to finish.

First time I did it it literally took me 30 min to get out. I've learned a few tricks since then. One thing is to loosen the wheel adjusting bolts right off so the skid slides out alot easier, won't get caught up on the drive cogs. Just out of curiosity, why do you have your engine out? BTW, the skid plate has served me well a few times already, LOL!

zr sled head,

Are you talking about flattening the outer edge of the pre-load adjuster? I'm not getting your drift.

Cut a slot in the top of part #33 just wide enough to slide the spring out...............works mint and no it won't split once cut.
(click on pic to enlarge)

Ahhh! I get it.

Thanks.

Yea, you dat. LOL

Not really necessary if you cut the slide-blocks before re-installation.
Just follow zr sled head's advise. He's the "been there-done that" many, many times.

Make or buy the Cat spring tool to lift the tangs off the adjuster blocks and the rear arm folds down easily and you'll never have to mess with the track tension.

I do what Zrsledhead does also you dont have to buy a tool just a pry bar and pry near the shock to lift them put just make sure you on something in there that wont bend and just pry it up til it sits on the top of the slits you cut and take a hammer give them a little tap in they go they wont ever pop out. I dont lay the sled on the side though i raise it in the air whichever way you like I guess but the springs and wheels all the way loose. MAKE SURE WHEN YOU PUT THE SKID BACK IN THE BACK SHOCK MOUNTS GO UP NOT DOWN UNDER THE WHEELS (rear shock mounts that are in a J shape in the back on the center wheels) OR YOU WILL BEND THE SHOCK SHAFT. It swings over the wheels not under when you have it out look at it you'll see what I am talking about.

I used one rachet strap to compress the suspension. Then removed the four bolts, had the sled raised with a winch to remove the suspension (used a couple old slides to help remove) and had it out in about 20 minutes. It was easy. I've disasembled everything to remove rust, and will paint everything black.....putting it back together might be a different story.