wondering if someone here could help, I've got a 2000 T-Cat and I'm about to install a set of used PSI pipes I just bought, so far I've got a D&D clutch kit(still trying to dial in perfectly), V-Force3 reeds, Power Breather, and MBRP trail can(will be removed, PSI stinger came with the pipes I bought). Any suggestions on what I should set the jetting to?? Right now I'm still set up with the stock jetting.
Any help would be appreciated, I picked up the sled 6 months ago, bone stock with 1100 miles on it and this is my first time modifing a sled.
Also, I was told that installing an M-10 suspension in the sled would severely hurt it's performance(so I installed in on my other sled instead), is there any truth to this??
Thanks

I'm running 420's in my 2000 t-cat with 2001 electronics, BM pipes, opened up air box, v-force and ported cylinders. Should be in the ball park for ya.

Thanks for the info, I'll try 420's to start with, is there a reason to switch electronics as you did in your sled to 2001, I've heard this before and was wondering if it helps performance.
thanks

02 T-Cats had very soft timing in the box. I believe 98 or 93 are the "hot" ones. As for the M10,don't install it in a sled you are looking for every last ounce of power from. They are designed to soak up energy wether it be from bumps or engine horsepower trying to make weight transfer. They are however excellent at what they do!!

I chose not to run a 2 degree key in the flywheel. The mid range is hot enough without it. I felt that it is just easier to run the 01 ignition. Dale at D & D recommended this also. I really didn't notice a bunch of a difference with it but then again I'm not running lakes wide open and racing alot of people with it either. Some like to get all they can out of a sled. The degree keyway is alot cheaper than buying a ignition though.

Oh ya, forgot to tell ya. Once you open up the air box or increase air effieciency and add the pipes you will have a hot spot in the mid range. Chances are if after this mod. you were to hold the throttle at between 6500 and 7500 rpm for an extended time you will melt the pistons. The ignition sysyems on these newer t's are making the motor run hotter in this one spot so I was told by the pros. I have a digitron (EGT) and just drive around the hot spot by either gassing it or letting of the throttle for about 1 second and have back at it for about 3-4 seconds. Some people with vary this situation but I think you get the jist of it. For example if you like to just cruise at around 70 mph on an old rail bed (like I do) or on the lake then watch out for this. I'm sure someone else will chime in and tell you all about it. Sounds worse than it really is though. All I've ever read know one has ever cured this by carburation. I'm told it's all in the ignition.

WOW, I've never heard of the 'Hotspot' issue, great advice as I have a friend of mine who was just recommending the 2 degree key, I'll stay away from it as well!! As much as I do like to open it up on the lakes I've ran into problems doing just that this year to the point that I'm staying away from running WOT for more than 8-10 seconds, so far this year I've stripped 2 chains, stripped an idler pulley and the last time scared the PISS out of myself by having the throttle 'stick' at 10k rpm's(at night, on a lake with the shoreline comming up REAL fast!!). Needless to say until I'm a much more proficient tuner I'm gonna stick to the occasional drags and tearing it up on the trails. This sled is actually a dream on the trails from what I've seen so far!!
I really appreciate all the help so far guys!!!