Well.. I just traded my F6 in for a ZR900 and although it's got more top end and more torque, I was expecting a little more top end from the big twin. I raced an '06 Apex and he kills me off the line and then we end the 2000' race with him ahead about 2 lengths. We both max out at 110mph (GPS) and he might occasionally hit 111mph with the wind at our backs.

I just can't get any bite off the line at all... spin city... while he's across from me pulling the skis off the ground and just leaving me there. I'm wondering what kind of adjustments I can do to my sled to get a little more off the line and a little more top end. I've heard you can get 110-115mph out of these sleds and I'm just not seeing it.

I ride trails most of the time but I just wanna put that Yamaha behind me on the lakes. So I'd need to have some suspension for riding.

**ALSO... I'm new to the Diamond Drive and I'm just wondering if that winding noise almost like a turbo is normal or maybe it's getting ready to go on me... Please let me know.

One more thing... the suspension is set to the hardest setting (3/3) and @ 150lbs. I'm still almost bottoming out the sled. I noticed these sleds have a shock in the front of the suspension but in my 04 AC manual, it does not mention anything about it. (not the ZR manual) Maybe I need to stiffen up that front shock for a little more resistance to bottoming out.

Thanks for your help in advance.
Drew

Did you buy your sled from Bangor ME.

No, Houlton, ME @ Houlton Powersports.

Oh ok I thought you were a some one else.Well start of with 144 studs clutch kit and the 10.4 sheeves and you will have a big improvement.

Make sure you reving 7200-7300 and not 8000 like o4 zr 900 was when it came from cat in 04 110 is a very good speed for the 04 the winning noise is normal it will go away soon I have part numbers if needed to get rid of the bottoming out if interested they will change the torrsion springs to a heavier spring.

I'm just mainly looking for better take off...

Current setup: 144 studs, straps are kinda tight, blocks are on the second to furthest back setting, suspension is set to 3/3(hardest it will go) and in the 2nd pin hole.

This thing corners unbelievably well but take off, all it does is spin, no bite at all.
For trail riding, this setup is perfect but I need more bite for the lake.

Thanks,
Drew

i took the blocks out and it made a huge difference

You may need more weight transfer off the line. That skid frame has rear to front coupling and you should set the rear coupling blocks to the lowest setting, or remove them alltogether. With the rear coupling blocks out the suspension should transfer lke crazy and restore the old Cat wheelie. The whole set up will need to change to regain front end bite, and it may take a riding style adjustment to help keep the front end down in the corners.

Yes, remove the coupling blocks, say good-bye to your buddy, hold on TIGHT and hit it. You may see nothing but blue sky until you learn how to control the wheelie. In any case, your hole-shot troubles will be over. Giddy-Up!

Just a quick question...

Since my rear suspension is on the hardest setting and it is coming close to bottoming out when I (150lbs) hit some pretty good size bumps, would removing the blocks (almost on the lowest setting possible) cause any complications with the rear suspension hitting the boggy wheels or maybe the bottom off the track? I don't wanna gun it off the line, only to hear a loud clunk and see my suspension laying on the ground behind me.

Thanks,
Drew

There is no way your sled should come close to bottoming out set like it is something is wrong if you only weigh 150 and it is set that stiff.

My sled did the same thing, I weigh 145, rebuilt the rear shocks=problem solved.

What he said, the rear shock is obviously sacked. I go 200lbs. and my rear springs are set in the number two position, stock springs no bottoming.
Looneytunes rebuilt my shocks this past fall the guy does a great job, he valves the shocks for your weight and riding style

I just had the shock rebuilt yesterday and I noticed on the hardest setting I'm still able to push it down quite easily and my brother(200lbs) is able to bottom it out if he hits ANY bumps.

So what I chose to do was set the arm back another notch into the 3rd (3/5) hole on the frame rail and it made it a bit stiffer... almost too stiff so I had to move back to 2/2 setting on the triangle and it's almost where I want it now but I'm just missing the 2-3" of travel that I lost. I put the blocks back in on the 2nd setting and I can't take off worth crap now.

So I guess I'm gonna go back to the 2nd (2/5) hole on the frame rail and put it back up to the stiffest setting (3/3) and maybe take a look at the spring (where is it?) and see if that maybe needs to be replaced since the shock seems to be doing it's job. There's just not enough tension on the spring? to resist bottoming out on large bumps.

Anyone know what spring I might need to replace if it is the spring that has lost it's tension.. (no spring on shock in back.. ???)

I agree with taking out the coupling blocks, I have a ZR 800. Took out the blocks and wow, what a difference. And I only weigh 160#. I remember when I first brought the sled home, I ran it on the grass and it barely lifted the skis. I took out the blocks, from there the sled was pointing at the sky.

If you're only 150 lb's and your shocks have been rebuilt and it is still bottoming out - your torsion springs must be toast. The stock ones should work fine. Just replace them. They do wear out after a while (how many miles on the sled?).

2700 now... I've got it in the 3rd hole on the frame rail and set to 1/2 on the triangle with the blocks on the 3rd (farthest away) setting and the ride is okay but I can't lift a sky no matter what I do. I guess I'll have to take the blocks back out again and try that.. but my ride will suffer a little.

Straps are also loose and now i'm thinking about the front spring in the back... maybe that needs to be tightened for more weight on the back instead of it all up front on the skies?

Thanks,
Drew