Am I missing something? Is there a different method to bleed the coolant lines other than what the manual says for the RMK's? I can't believe just gravity alone will suffice. The manual says:

1. Remove pressure cap and fill tank to maximum recommended mark.
2. Elevate the front of the machine.
3. Start the engine and run at a fast idle for two to three minutes. Air bubbles should come to the surface of the coolant tank. Run the machine until air bubbles no longer appear.
4. Shut off the engine and feel for warmth along the tunnel. If the machine is bled properly, the deicer gripper coolant extrusions will be warm.
5. If needed, fill the coolant to maximum recommended mark.
6. Replace the pressure cap and carefully lower the front end of the machine.

Isn't the screw on the top of the thermostat housing for bleeding?

For those of you who have removed the thermostat and plugged the bypass, I assume you are plugging both ends of the bypass hose. Are you using a regular threaded pipe plug?

Anybody have experience with a product called Hy-per Lube Super Coolant? I couldn't find a local Redline distributor.

Thanks for any help / answers. As she sits, V Force 3, 430 mains, almond / blue primary, 10-64 weights, silver / blue seconday, EPI 52/36 helix second hole, 22/40 gears. (Terez - I tore it all apart again. I just did not like the thought of that dog leg in the chain.)

I am sick of not having snow here. Going to Calumet, MI on the 20th, hopefully she will rock!

[quote name='ctk124' date='Feb 13 2007, 11:33 PM' post='2484657']
Am I missing something? Is there a different method to bleed the coolant lines other than what the manual says for the RMK's? I can't believe just gravity alone will suffice. The manual says:

1. Remove pressure cap and fill tank to maximum recommended mark.
2. Elevate the front of the machine.
3. Start the engine and run at a fast idle for two to three minutes. Air bubbles should come to the surface of the coolant tank. Run the machine until air bubbles no longer appear.
4. Shut off the engine and feel for warmth along the tunnel. If the machine is bled properly, the deicer gripper coolant extrusions will be warm.
5. If needed, fill the coolant to maximum recommended mark.
6. Replace the pressure cap and carefully lower the front end of the machine.






That is the proper way to bleed the cooling system.

Anyone?

Yep...it is the right way to do it.
It seems silly but it works well. Just be patient while doing it and let the bubbles surface.

Your setup sounds great, it will rock.
If you are running the stock pipe I would jet to 420 though. Sharper and stronger and still very safe.
Especially running the Vforce reeds. It runs a little richer with those.

I just returned last night from a 600 mile 4 day trip in northern Quebec.
I 22/40 gearing was great! Very responsive and hard accelarating and the clutches are very happy/cool...zero belt dust.Click to view attachment

Taken from my 2003 Deep Snow Manual:

Cooling Systems 700/800 SKS


1. Allow system to cool completely. Loosen the bleed screw and fill the reservoir to indicated FULL COLD mark. Once full, tighten the bleed screw.

2. Apply parking brake and run engine at specified idle rpm until thermostat opens. (5-8 minutes) Once thermostat is open tip the snowmobile slightly on its right side. Cycle the rpm from idle to enough rpm (est 4000) to get coolant flow, but not enough rpm to engage the clutch. This method allows air to bleed from rear cross over tube. Then tilt the machine slightly to the left so the coolant bottle is at the highest point of the cooling system. Cycle the rpm from idle to enough rpm for coolant flow (est. 4000 rpm) but once again not too much rpm to engage clutch. This will help to get enough coolant flow to purge air from front close off cooler and observe air reaching the bottle.

3. Place snowmobile in its normal position and loosen bleed screw at top of the water outlet manifold until trapped air has been purged. Tighten the bleed screw. Turn off machine and release the parking brake. Allow machine to cool completely. Re-check coolant level after the cap has been removed and add coolant to fill line if necessary. Our testing has shown that after the machine cools down, 3 ounces or more of coolant may have to be added.

NOTE: It is important to get enough coolant flow to purge the air from the crossover hose or rear cooler and observe this air reaching the bottle.




As I noted, I copied this information from my Polaris Deep Snow Manual for 2003 modles (PN 9918051). This should help you get it purged. I bought this manual off of Ebay, and it was a great investment for $20.00
Good Luck, Mark

Click to view attachment