I need some help with clutching:
this is what i have been writing some were else, in a topic in zr forum, lots of tcat info left there:

I like those Heelclicker weights, they are performing well, you have an so many possibilites and for an amatuer like me is it cheaper to by one set of HC weights instead of 10 sets of other weigths. And I like the heavy heel, makes the sled response and it feels quick on the trail...
But I have one question, do you use the HeelClicker springs? did some testing this weekend and it seems like those HC springs are longer, you can not compress like a Arctic spring. HC=33-33mm(GOLD spring) compressed and Arctic=30mm(yellow/white) compressed. So this meaning that with a HC spring you can not get the primary to shiftout comletly?? I did not find out why my sled always stopped pulling after 140-150kmt, checked the gearing 22/41, and this one stoped me, and I did never get full shift out either, still more than 1cm left on primary. but got one of those new undercut helixes, giving you more overdrive.. tried this one and also made a stock 57/50 helix like this.. tried it and yes sled pulled more top speed but a bad noice appeared, belt screaming, stoped sled and there was a black rubber mark on the outer part of primary, so now clutches shifts out compleatly but there is not any belt pressure..??
I use 57/50 and 60/40 helix with a D&D purple sec.. like the 57/50 better than 60/40( but alof of people says that the 60/40 is the way to go..?) But maybe this is because of shorther tracks, higher gearing and longer lakes? (have done alot of searching)

I have a 200Hp Tcat made between 8300-8600rpm.(yes, it is true teste 3 times) (PSI modpipes, Race Logic porting, ported case, shaved heads, timing key ect ect) ... 136"track with 1.5"lugs, looking for trail, drag and some powder and hills, so any gearing and clutching advice would be nice? Will try 22/39 gearing... thinking my current 22/41 is to short, This is the gearing almost every 136 tracked Tcat gets here in Norway. I do not need more than 160km/t(100mph) top speed, but wants to get there real fast!

SO this explains most I think, so if any of you have any good advices to give me I would be very happy:)
Maybe 87gtNOS, green thunder, gpxsrxracer, or some of you big tuners have a good idea for me:)

My 00 Tundercat MC is a 135 1.5 and my gearing is 23/39 and run the purple secondary spring and a 60/52 dalton helix if your leaving rubber on the drive you need more weight on the tip so the HH have the heel weight you need to put some in the tip. You never said were you are shifting now!!I hope it is over reving because that the only thing that makes sence.BTW I'm 180lb and I do not have any trouble pulling the straighter helix but maybe the large guys need the 40 or 44 finish angles ??? ADD weight!!!

Hi and thanks for your response thunder101!

where I shift out now: starts at 82-8300 and climbs to 8700, then a smal overrev, but thinking this is because of the compleatly compressed primary spring that stops me from using the last outer part of the primary sheaves. The gearing I have 22/41 will go into overdrive after 140km/t(around 90mph) if my gear calculations are right?, my undercuted helix makes this ok with the secundary but the primary spring or the HC heels stops the belt pressure on the primary., this is what I think, but maybe I am just to far out on this one? belt is cold and so is also my prim and sec sheaves when I do normal riding.
So this is way I am asking for some help.
I checked a stock AC spring 30mm compressed and a HC spring is almost 33mm compleatly compressed, so maybe I can pu some shims on my bolt cover to make some more room for the spring, will loose some tension but this can be adjusted?

Did some testing last weekend and think it is working now.
I shimmed out the primary clutchspring cover 1,2mm to make sure there is space for the HC Gold spring. using a undercutted 57/50 helix with a D&D spring, center hole. Keept the 22/41 gear. added some weigth to the HC 55-7 weigths: Heel=3.7gr Center=6.0gr Tip=5.2gr. pulling hard all the way up to 170km/t and turning 8500 rpm.. and does not seem to have any belt slip at the end like before. All this was done in warm weather, and have to try it out more but seem to be on the rigth track here:)

Updated setup!
The set up listed above did not perform like wanted, it was ok on hardpacked snow, for drag, but was terrible for trail riding and deep snow. My belt was getting freaking hot, and cruising rpm was around 7000rpm.

So to solve this I did something different, replaced the HC gold spring in primary with a HC yellow spring(290 finish) and added 1 gr more in the middel of the HC weigth, so total now is Heel=3.7gr Center=7.0gr Tip=5.2gr. I replaced the helix with a Heel-X 42 helix and a Red HC spring. (of course some testing before this was made).
This setup performs very well, around 5-5000 rpm when cruising on trails, always hits 8600 (or more) when I nail it, it pulls good al the way to 170Km/t, works good on trails, pulls good out on the ice, works good in deep pow AND my drivebelt is always COOL!
I think it would be even better with a heavier base weigth so I did not have to put on so much extra weigth, this changes the weigth profile too much maybe. And also a 46 Heel-X would have made it pull harder,maybe..
This is very different from other setups I have seen with steep helixes and stiff springs... But it works for me:)

I've never used the HH or the heel x secondary so I can't help much. What I do know is you want a smooth engagment or you will dig a hole and get stuck. The springs I've best luck with is the cat purple the yellow/w,and the epi black i've used these with many diff profiles of wieghts around 60gr. I know that the Tcat with a 136 1.5 is a mean combo up to 110mph/180kph. Good luck.

Thanks thunder101.
I have always used the purple D&D or Green AC spring in secondary with a 57/50, 60/40 or straigth 58 helix, but never made it work proparly... This Heel-x 42 should act as an 48/36 normal helix. There are some people meaning that steep helixes is not the way to go on the Tcats, oppposite of what most people normaly says. Maybe for pure dragracing this is good. But i found swallow helix work better. Thinking that maybe because of big hp you need this swallow helix to prevent belt slip ect.. with the rigth spring of course. Total weigth on my heel clickers are now 78gr, but cannot compare this to normal weigths..
It did for sure make the drive belt run cooler and that is a sign of efective clutching, rigth?

I spent many many hours of clutching the heel-x and compared it to standard setups. I was after top speed but could never get more than 115 in 1500 feet. I have a horsepower issue and need to check the porting on my 1108. But I was running the heelx-x 42 and the 50 and liked the 50 better for low end and midrange. I got 115 with the 42 and the red. With the 50 and the red I got 114. The yellow spring just sloppied up the backshift since it is so loose. I had the best success running light weigths. I ran the Black Magic 63 with a 162/315 spring. This was with 25/38 gears and 8700 rpms. I was no where near full shift out. Unfortunatly I really never raced anyone except xcr1250 on this site. I am not sure exactly what he has but it flys. It was an even match based upon who hooked up. My buds f-7 was like a 500 fan compared to this setup.

Thanks for the info mikesnowman1
I have also tried the 50 Heel-x helix, but this one make my drivebelt almost melt down, this was with the red or the yellow spring, too soft making the belt slip "all the time". Maybe it had worked with a stiffer spring??

Some tougths about helix angel and gearing:
Since the secondary is tourqe sencing, will a low gearing make a low angel helix shift out fast like a steep helix and high gearing? So because my sled has 22/41 gearing will a 42 helix shift out fast/give good acceleration, just like a 60/50 helix with lets say 25/39 gearing. My secondary does not feel a heavy load and because of that shift out fast? But the on the high geared sled the secondary sences a very high load and because of that shift out "slower"? This making a high geared sled (22/42) and steep helix (60/50) combo overkill, shifting out too fast and make too much load on the belt and secondary spring?
I hope someone understod my thinking:)

Yes, The secondary is LOAD sensing. The lower gearing will cause the secondary to shift out faster and into a higher ratio. There are 2 schhols of thought here. I know some racers that want to clutch so that their top MPH is at 85 to 100 full shift. They use high gear ratios. Then others gear low aand want the overdrive to get the high mph. The drive is most efficient at 1 to 1. The lower the ratio the more track spin and the more studs needed. The heel-x 42 acts like a 62/38 and the 50 acts like a 58/46. All I can tell you from all my testing, is that a setup which works good for one person may not work well for another. I want more top end but do not want to lose the wonderfull acceleration I have. It alos depends in the length of run you have. I think if you can get the wiegth dialed in that is a huge part of the issue. In my opinion you should mash the throttle and have your rpms go right where they should be, then stay there all the way through the shift. That way the motor is always putting out peak hp and torque.