Thinking about getting my shocks re-built this early winter. I would like to do it myself. What kind of tools are needed? It is not just the money, I could just go have someone do it for me, I really like doing things myself.
Also, how do I tell if they need servicing or not? Don't tell me to just do it, tell me how to test them to see if it is needed.
Full Version: Re-build shocks
Joe, i have the same questions as you too. Love the avitar!
I my opinion getting the tools and parts will not be worth it. Eric at Shock-tech.com gave me a great price and service this season !
I had Carls cycle rebuild the same shocks last year, WHAT a waste of money. the had leaks when I got them and there " sweet shim stack" suxs . I can understand the shim stack issue but the oil leak is totaly unacceptable. It leaked at teh shock head around the shaft and at the copper crush washer on the remote. stike two... last the price , well over 450.00 to rebuild 5 shocks.... 4 had remotes and one was a PSS II just a recharge and oil change.
shocks need a oil change and recharge at the bare min of every other season or 2000 miles max if good oil is used and your shocks have good seals that keep the water out.
I had Carls cycle rebuild the same shocks last year, WHAT a waste of money. the had leaks when I got them and there " sweet shim stack" suxs . I can understand the shim stack issue but the oil leak is totaly unacceptable. It leaked at teh shock head around the shaft and at the copper crush washer on the remote. stike two... last the price , well over 450.00 to rebuild 5 shocks.... 4 had remotes and one was a PSS II just a recharge and oil change.
shocks need a oil change and recharge at the bare min of every other season or 2000 miles max if good oil is used and your shocks have good seals that keep the water out.
You really don't need any special tools to do a oil change on Ryde FX shocks. The only special tools that are needed if you have to replace the shaft seal is a seal saver tool. That tool is only 6 or 7 bucks. You can get them from Deycore.
If your shocks aren't leaking and only need fresh oil, it's a piece of cake. Remote reservoir shocks are actually easier to do than mono tubes.
Here are the steps:
1) remove the coil over springs
2) Slowly unloosen the nitrogen fill valve and listen for the gas to completely escape, them remove the valve from the shock.
3) Clamp the shock in the vice with the shaft pointing up. then loosen the shaft bearing cap and remove the plunger. Pour out the old oil.
4) Remove the floating piston. The best way to do this is to use compressed air. Blow from the nitro valve port keeping your and over the tube so the piston don't fly across the shop.
5) Clean all of the components with clean mineral spirts and blow dry with air.
6) Set floating piston depth (mono tube)per your shock specifications. On a mono tube Ryde the piston sits fairly deep in the tube (around 6+ inches). I use a vernier caliper to set the depth. Once the depth as been set, slowly fill the tube with fresh 5w shock oil to 1/2 inch from the top being careful not to get air bubbles in the oil (let the oil sit for about 15 min)
7) With the plunger shaft fully extended, carefully insert it into the tube but do not push it into the bore more than 1 inch, now slowly push in about 1/2" then slowly pull it back (this removes the air from the valve stack). Now tighten the bearing cap.
8) Filling a Remote resv is a little different. The piston is set after the new oil is in the tube and resv. If the resv is loose type(non piggy back) use a piece of twine or wire to tie the resv to the tube so you don't have to hold on to it while filling. Now fill the tube to within 1/2 in of the top watching to make sure the oil in the resv is at least 2/3 full. Now carefully insert the shaft/valve assembly into the tube and work out all air bubbles by slowly pushing and pulling the shaft. Once the air is gone make sure the shaft is fully extended and tighten the bearing cap.
now you can set the floating piston into the resv. Make sure you remove the bleeder screw from the piston so it can be submerged into the oil in the resv. Once you have the depth set reinstall the bleeder before you pour out the excess oil that is above the piston. Once the bleeder screw is tight,pour out the excess oil and reinstall the resv cap and retainer.
No all you have to do is charge the nitrogen. Most good dealers will charge them for you without charge.
Good luck!
If your shocks aren't leaking and only need fresh oil, it's a piece of cake. Remote reservoir shocks are actually easier to do than mono tubes.
Here are the steps:
1) remove the coil over springs
2) Slowly unloosen the nitrogen fill valve and listen for the gas to completely escape, them remove the valve from the shock.
3) Clamp the shock in the vice with the shaft pointing up. then loosen the shaft bearing cap and remove the plunger. Pour out the old oil.
4) Remove the floating piston. The best way to do this is to use compressed air. Blow from the nitro valve port keeping your and over the tube so the piston don't fly across the shop.
5) Clean all of the components with clean mineral spirts and blow dry with air.
6) Set floating piston depth (mono tube)per your shock specifications. On a mono tube Ryde the piston sits fairly deep in the tube (around 6+ inches). I use a vernier caliper to set the depth. Once the depth as been set, slowly fill the tube with fresh 5w shock oil to 1/2 inch from the top being careful not to get air bubbles in the oil (let the oil sit for about 15 min)
7) With the plunger shaft fully extended, carefully insert it into the tube but do not push it into the bore more than 1 inch, now slowly push in about 1/2" then slowly pull it back (this removes the air from the valve stack). Now tighten the bearing cap.
8) Filling a Remote resv is a little different. The piston is set after the new oil is in the tube and resv. If the resv is loose type(non piggy back) use a piece of twine or wire to tie the resv to the tube so you don't have to hold on to it while filling. Now fill the tube to within 1/2 in of the top watching to make sure the oil in the resv is at least 2/3 full. Now carefully insert the shaft/valve assembly into the tube and work out all air bubbles by slowly pushing and pulling the shaft. Once the air is gone make sure the shaft is fully extended and tighten the bearing cap.
now you can set the floating piston into the resv. Make sure you remove the bleeder screw from the piston so it can be submerged into the oil in the resv. Once you have the depth set reinstall the bleeder before you pour out the excess oil that is above the piston. Once the bleeder screw is tight,pour out the excess oil and reinstall the resv cap and retainer.
No all you have to do is charge the nitrogen. Most good dealers will charge them for you without charge.
Good luck!
the expensive part is getting the nitrogen filler valve (needle, or whatever you want to call it) plus having a few needles on hand for when you break one (you will)... about 80-100 bucks for the filler and 3-5 bucks per needle, you should keep at least 3-4 on hand... plus getting a 5lb cylinder of nitrogen to do the charges (once you become proficient you can do your friends as well)...
you may have to repeat AC35 #7 step several time to get ALL the bubbles out... if they get trapped in there they will ruin the R&R you just did... sometimes a lite tapping of a plastic screwdriver handle against the shock body will free up those bubbles while you are cycling the piston...
it's not hard work, there's just a tool investment that most people can't justify unless they are gonna be doing them for others... expect to spend several hundred to get a completely setup to do shocks on your own... some shocks require special tools, like ohlins or custom axis/penske... some of it you will learn on the way...
also, invest in a decent parts washer if you don't already have one... it'll make life easier...
you may have to repeat AC35 #7 step several time to get ALL the bubbles out... if they get trapped in there they will ruin the R&R you just did... sometimes a lite tapping of a plastic screwdriver handle against the shock body will free up those bubbles while you are cycling the piston...
it's not hard work, there's just a tool investment that most people can't justify unless they are gonna be doing them for others... expect to spend several hundred to get a completely setup to do shocks on your own... some shocks require special tools, like ohlins or custom axis/penske... some of it you will learn on the way...
also, invest in a decent parts washer if you don't already have one... it'll make life easier...
The seal in a RydeFX monobody shock is not replaceable. You need to replace the end cap if you have a leak. You also need to put the nitrogen fill valve back in the shock body before you put oil in to make sure the IFP stays in the right location when you install the shaft. You need a special spanner wrench to remove/install the end cap too. http://home.comcast.net/~davearctic/DLS.html
QUOTE(fastcat800 @ Dec 20 2006, 11:25 AM) 
The seal in a RydeFX monobody shock is not replaceable. You need to replace the end cap if you have a leak. You also need to put the nitrogen fill valve back in the shock body before you put oil in to make sure the IFP stays in the right location when you install the shaft. You need a special spanner wrench to remove/install the end cap too. http://home.comcast.net/~davearctic/DLS.html
The shaft seals are replaceable on the standard end caps. I change them all the time. I use Tech Syn seals, but you can buy OEM seals from Polaris. You do need a special tool to get the seal back on the shaft. Not all Ryde 9200 series has the spanner cap. It uses the conventinal style like a Fox. I have not done any with the spanner end caps, so maybe those you can't replace.
You are right about reinstalling the valve after setting the floater and before adding the oil.
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